MauricioGTI
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Brazil
Does Brazil get port injection aka ROW cars?
Yes
Does Brazil get port injection aka ROW cars?
It does but I'm not sure how that is relevant if the concern is ethanol's corrosive properties to the fuel system. Having 4 more injectors won't solve that.
I personally think the risk is massively overstated.
I've been running straight E85 in my turbo GSXR for 4 years now.
I let it sit for 6+months at a time without draining the tank, in fact it has always had E85 in it for 4+ years. I did not use ethanol compliant hoses, injectors, or anything else in the fuel system.
The fittings still look brand new on the inside, and I've never had any issues with corrosion or anything else.
What ratio do you suggest?
What ratio do you suggest?
That's not correct. E85 is equivalent to 105US which is 110RON. Assuming your 98RON has no ethanol in it then 3 gallons of E85 and 7 gallons of 98RON would make something close to 101RON. It's 3 points higher, not 1. Also, it cools the cylinders which reduces knock.
http://www.pencilgeek.org/2009/05/octane-rating-conversions.html
http://www.georgebelton.com/E85Calculator.php
Fuel #1
E85 (Gals)
3.00
E85 Octane
105
% ethanol
85
Fuel #2
Gas (Gals)
7.00
Gas Octane
93
% ethanol
0
Result
10.00 gallons
96.6 octane USA
25.5% ethanol (or E26)
RON MON USA
100 91.5 95.75
105 95 100
Being IS38, on ethanol you'll start to max out your lpfp. With only a JB4 you'll max out the jb4's ability to provide additional fueling before this though. The JB4 can only take the reading so far before the car thinks there's a problem. So you'll be leaving a good amount of power on the table with just the JB4 on E30 IS38.
Arghhh, the US octane rating was the culprit. I was entering "98" as my main fuel's octane rating thinking 98ron but the calculator was assuming US units so that value should be changed to 93.5/94 which already creates more headroom. All fuels in Sweden include 5% Ethanol already and I was using the lowest rating for the E85 (100) as I'm not sure how much it's actually rated for.
Car was IS38 from factory so it's a R engine, haven't done just a turbo swap (if that's what you meant about the hpfp). By "leaving a good amount of power on the table with just the JB4" do you mean I would need a full tune?
Not that I like to push people away from JB4, but your car would benefit a lot from a flash tune. Getting rid of that overboost would be key as it is either too much boost or not enough with JB4 on top. Too difficult to tune something that changes how much boost pressure it generates.
Do you mean because of the overboost delete mainly or there's other benefits to be had also? To be honest that silly feature is the main reason I've been contemplating a tune for quite a while. And I could keep the JB4 for logging or fine tuning for further upgrades, it's so versatile anyway.
I personally think the risk is massively overstated.
I've been running straight E85 in my turbo GSXR for 4 years now.
I let it sit for 6+months at a time without draining the tank, in fact it has always had E85 in it for 4+ years. I did not use ethanol compliant hoses, injectors, or anything else in the fuel system.
The fittings still look brand new on the inside, and I've never had any issues with corrosion or anything else.
E85 is great for power, but isn't something that doesn't come with precautions. For one it causes higher oil dilution. Look at it as reverse oil blow by. Just like oil making it past the ringlands, it goes the other way. If you change your oil yourself a lot of times you'll notice that you get the same amount of oil out as you put in. With the constant that oil seals on turbos let blow by happen, oil dilution from high cyl pressure(aka going full throttle), and windage ventilation(PCV system), you lose oil from normal day to day operation. Just like oil and intake valves not mixing, oil and E85 like to mix even less. Rule of thumb I've always heard is stick to 3000 mile oil changes if you run a lot of E85 or at the very least, shorter drain intervals than normal and have your oil analyzed. ESPECIALLY with iron blocked engines. It causes them to rust faster and breaks oil down a lot faster making it harder for the oil to do it's job.
Again this isn't gospel, so YMMV, but if you plan on keeping your ride for the long term it is something everyone may want to consider.
Running E30 isn't going to negatively affect any of the parts on your car. That is why you run E30 instead of E85. Running full E85, would cause issues with our fuel lines and hpfp as they aren't rating for it. The lines can dry out and crack, and the hpfp can wear and seize due to improper lubrication. Running a blend prevents this from happening.
In the US E85 pumps can vary the E% by region/month. In colder states in the winter E85 pumps can be as low as E50. Some of the warmer states don't have to drop the Ethnaol% in the winter, but doesn't mean that it is always E85. If you're trying to hit a specific ratio, get a gauge or a tester. Otherwise keep your tuning a bit more relaxed to allow for variance in the ethanol grades.
Being IS38, on ethanol you'll start to max out your lpfp. With only a JB4 you'll max out the jb4's ability to provide additional fueling before this though. The JB4 can only take the reading so far before the car thinks there's a problem. So you'll be leaving a good amount of power on the table with just the JB4 on E30 IS38.