brentgti
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- North America
- Car(s)
- GTI
Thought I would document my experience retrofitting the 9.2” display with a MIB2 High (referred to as a MIB2.5 or the MHI2 Harman unit) in the event that it helps others. I am doing this afterwards, so the guide is already showing a 9.2" display and Harman MIB2 High unit.
Not responsible for any mistakes or issues; follow at your own risk!
What do you get from this retrofit?
Required parts and tools
Step-by-Step Retrofit Instructions
Step 1: Backup your existing MIB main unit (5F infotainment module) coding and adaptations
These are essential for coding the new unit to match your car's specific options.
Step 2: Disconnect your car’s battery
Disconnect your car's battery to prevent electrical damage or injury during the retrofit.
Step 3: Remove your existing MIB main unit from your car’s glove box
Open the glove box and locate the MIB main unit. There should be two slots (bottom left and bottom right). Insert a removal key into each slot following the guidelines for the key orientation (often denoted on the key itself). For the Audi keys, there are small, triangular indicators that need to face outwards. Push each removal key in until you hear a click.
After you have heard the click from both sides, the mechanisms that hold the main unit in place have been released. You can now place your fingers in the openings of the removal keys and gently pull the unit out. Be advised that your car’s wiring is still attached to the unit so you will not be able to pull the unit entirely out.
Step 4: Disconnect the wiring from the existing main unit
Your car’s existing wiring is still connected to the main unit. You will need to disconnect several connectors that have different release mechanisms.
Step 5: Connect the wiring to the new main unit
Note: If you are installing a new USB wiring harness, you will likely want to skip this step and return to it after you have run the wiring.
This is the reverse of Step 4. The only difference is that you may now have a pink connector but no pink port on the new main unit. On MIB2 High units, the display output is the grey port. The grey port is keyed slightly differently so you will need to shave one of the plastic guiding pins of the pink connector from the car so that it can be inserted into the grey port.
Step 6: Reinstall and secure the main unit in the glove box
Note: If you are installing a new USB wiring harness, you will likely want to skip this step and return to it after you have run the wiring.
With everything connected, gently push the unit back into its mounting point in the glove box. You may need to apply a slight upward force under the unit so that it can slide in fully. If there is any type of obstruction that you feel, remove the unit and sort that out; do not force the unit in.
Step 7: Remove the trim from the HVAC (Climatronic) control panel and from around the existing display
In order to remove the existing display unit, remove the trim pieces from around the climate control panel and around the display. The trim piece around the display includes the air vents (though technically they do separate). You will want to use a trim removal tool (or tools) to carefully unclip the trim pieces. For the air vents, you will need to disconnect the hazard switch button assembly from the car’s wiring.
This was the worst part of the retrofit for me as it seems I am particularly bad with the interior trim pieces. My advice is to be patient and take your time. Also, be careful with the metal clips that can come out. You (1) don’t want to lose them and (2) don’t want to end up like me where they remained attached to the trim piece which then brushed against the existing display and caused damage to the bezel.
One of the videos I referenced:
Step 8: Remove the existing display unit
The existing display is locked in place by four (4) mechanisms. Insert a radio removal key into each of the four mechanisms until you hear a click each time.
Once all of the four mechanisms has clicked, the display unit can be removed. Before you start the removal, take note that although the display unit is free from the locking mechanisms, it is not free from the car; there are two wires connected to it that will need to be disconnected. Grab the display unit and slowly pull it out.
Step 9: Shave the display (LVDS) plastic positioning pin to fit the port on the new display unit
This is most likely required. Compare the port colour on the new display unit versus the cable you disconnected. If they match, you do not have to do anything. If they do not match, you have to shave one or more positioning pins so that the cable can be inserted into the port.
In my case, my car has a blue LVDS cable and the 9.2” display unit has a black port. Thus, I had to shave one of the positioning pins. Make sure that you shave the positioning pin off well. If you do not, it is likely going to be very difficult to remove and it might get stuck.
Step 10: Install the new display unit and reinstall the trim pieces
Note: If you have a digital instrument cluster and want maps in your cluster, you may wish to run the MOST cable to the instrument cluster before you install the new display unit.
Connect the display (LVDS) and power/vehicle communication cables into the new display unit. Once the cables are connected, position the display unit in the opening the original came out of and then gently push the unit in. You may need to press around on the display unit after it is seated to fully secure it (you will likely hear clicks as you do this).
With the display unit mounted, reassemble the trim pieces that were removed. Be sure the hazard switch button assembly is connected before you reconnect power or you will get a fault in the instrument cluster that will need to be cleared.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery, clear the many instrument cluster warning lights, make coding changes and enjoy
Reconnect the battery. Doing so will cause faults in the instrument cluster when the ignition button is pressed. You can clear the faults by starting the engine (may be possible in accessory mode, but can’t recall) and from the centre position: rotate the steering wheel all the way to the left and hold it for three (3) seconds, rotate the steering wheel all the way to the right for three seconds and hold it for three (3) seconds and return the wheel to the centre. You may need to repeat this process twice during the same attempt (e.g., centre → left → right → left → right → centre). If you still have lights after this procedure, going for a short drive will normally clear them; you could alternatively attempt to clear faults with the diagnostic scan tool.
Use the diagnostic scan tool to view the new MIB main unit’s coding and adaptions. Using the backup you took from the original MIB main unit, adjust any coding and adaptations to account for vehicle specific options and characteristics. Common coding changes are included in a different post.
Congratulations! You’ve completed the retrofit. Be sure to post some pictures.
Not responsible for any mistakes or issues; follow at your own risk!
What do you get from this retrofit?
- A larger touchscreen display for enhanced internal maps, Android Auto, and Apple CarPlay functionality.
- An upgraded MIB main unit with internally stored navigation maps.
- (For vehicles equipped with a digital instrument cluster) The ability to customize internal maps, such as using Audi maps, Porsche maps, or custom options, which can be persistently displayed in the instrument cluster during Android Auto/CarPlay active navigation (requires the navignore patch).
Required parts and tools
- For most cases, a Harman MIB2 High running a MHI2_{US, ER, etc.}_VWG13software train
- G11 software is not compatible with the 9.2” display
- A 9.2” display (5G6 919 606, 5G6 919 606 A, 5G6 919 606 D, etc.; if sourcing a used European manufactured display, be mindful that some older hardware revisions seem more likely to develop certain defects)
- The 9.2” trim surround (check AliExpress; part number will vary depending on what car you are retrofitting the unit to)
- Radio removal keys (official Audi part number is 8E0 051 530; there are alternatives but would not recommend going super cheap because you do not want the keys to break and get stuck)
- Scan tool (OBDeleven, VCDS, VAS, etc.)
- USB port and wiring harness
- 5G0 035 222 E is the assembly for USB and AUX
- 5Q0 035 726 J is the assembly for just USB
- Amplifier (5Q0035456 and 5Q0035456A part numbers should be compatible; however, I have no experience with 5Q0035456 to directly confirm) – in most cases, if you have a MIB1 system with Fender or Dynaudio, expect to have to replace the amplifier under the driver’s seat in LHD cars and the front passenger’s seat in RHD cars. Component protection will need to be removed from the replacement amp if it is sourced used.
- Extension cables if your car does not have the MIB main unit (5F infotainment module) in the glove box
Step-by-Step Retrofit Instructions
Step 1: Backup your existing MIB main unit (5F infotainment module) coding and adaptations
These are essential for coding the new unit to match your car's specific options.
Step 2: Disconnect your car’s battery
Disconnect your car's battery to prevent electrical damage or injury during the retrofit.
Step 3: Remove your existing MIB main unit from your car’s glove box
Open the glove box and locate the MIB main unit. There should be two slots (bottom left and bottom right). Insert a removal key into each slot following the guidelines for the key orientation (often denoted on the key itself). For the Audi keys, there are small, triangular indicators that need to face outwards. Push each removal key in until you hear a click.
After you have heard the click from both sides, the mechanisms that hold the main unit in place have been released. You can now place your fingers in the openings of the removal keys and gently pull the unit out. Be advised that your car’s wiring is still attached to the unit so you will not be able to pull the unit entirely out.
Step 4: Disconnect the wiring from the existing main unit
Your car’s existing wiring is still connected to the main unit. You will need to disconnect several connectors that have different release mechanisms.
- The blue connector is GPS. It has a fairly straightforward release mechanism. Push and hold the end of the tab to unlock the connector and then slide the connector off.
- The brown connector is Sirius/XM (SDARS) on North American units and DAB on international units. It is the same mechanism as the GPS connector. Push and hold the end of the tab to unlock the connector and then slide the connector off.
- The white connector is AM/FM radio. It has a release tab on the bottom. Push and hold the end of the tab to unlock the connector and then slide the connector off. You may need to ‘rock’ the connector somewhat.
- The yellow connector is for USB (HSD). It has a push tab at the bottom. Push and hold the tab and gently pull the connector out. You may need to ‘rock’ the connector somewhat.
- The pink connector (LVDS) is for display output. Like the USB (HSD) connector, it has a push tab at the bottom. Push and hold the tab and gently pull the connector out. You may need to ‘rock’ the connector somewhat.
- The large square connector is called the Quadlock. The Quadlock provides power and many other connections to the main unit. At the bottom of the Quadlock, there is a tab. Squeeze the tab between your index finger and thumb and then pull in an anti-clockwise direction to unlock the Quadlock. Once it is unlocked, you can slide the connector out.
- If your car is equipped with Fender or Dynaudio, you will have a MOST connection. The MOST connector has a tab on the side that you push in. Once it is pushed in, the connector is unlocked and you can gently pull the connector out from the unit.
Step 5: Connect the wiring to the new main unit
Note: If you are installing a new USB wiring harness, you will likely want to skip this step and return to it after you have run the wiring.
This is the reverse of Step 4. The only difference is that you may now have a pink connector but no pink port on the new main unit. On MIB2 High units, the display output is the grey port. The grey port is keyed slightly differently so you will need to shave one of the plastic guiding pins of the pink connector from the car so that it can be inserted into the grey port.
Step 6: Reinstall and secure the main unit in the glove box
Note: If you are installing a new USB wiring harness, you will likely want to skip this step and return to it after you have run the wiring.
With everything connected, gently push the unit back into its mounting point in the glove box. You may need to apply a slight upward force under the unit so that it can slide in fully. If there is any type of obstruction that you feel, remove the unit and sort that out; do not force the unit in.
Step 7: Remove the trim from the HVAC (Climatronic) control panel and from around the existing display
In order to remove the existing display unit, remove the trim pieces from around the climate control panel and around the display. The trim piece around the display includes the air vents (though technically they do separate). You will want to use a trim removal tool (or tools) to carefully unclip the trim pieces. For the air vents, you will need to disconnect the hazard switch button assembly from the car’s wiring.
This was the worst part of the retrofit for me as it seems I am particularly bad with the interior trim pieces. My advice is to be patient and take your time. Also, be careful with the metal clips that can come out. You (1) don’t want to lose them and (2) don’t want to end up like me where they remained attached to the trim piece which then brushed against the existing display and caused damage to the bezel.
One of the videos I referenced:
Step 8: Remove the existing display unit
The existing display is locked in place by four (4) mechanisms. Insert a radio removal key into each of the four mechanisms until you hear a click each time.
Once all of the four mechanisms has clicked, the display unit can be removed. Before you start the removal, take note that although the display unit is free from the locking mechanisms, it is not free from the car; there are two wires connected to it that will need to be disconnected. Grab the display unit and slowly pull it out.
- Disconnect the display (LVDS) input cable. Push and hold the end of the tab to unlock the connector and then slide the connector off.
- Disconnect the power and vehicle communication cable. The connector has a tab on the side that you push in and hold. Once it is pushed in, the connector is unlocked and you can gently pull the connector out.
Step 9: Shave the display (LVDS) plastic positioning pin to fit the port on the new display unit
This is most likely required. Compare the port colour on the new display unit versus the cable you disconnected. If they match, you do not have to do anything. If they do not match, you have to shave one or more positioning pins so that the cable can be inserted into the port.
In my case, my car has a blue LVDS cable and the 9.2” display unit has a black port. Thus, I had to shave one of the positioning pins. Make sure that you shave the positioning pin off well. If you do not, it is likely going to be very difficult to remove and it might get stuck.
Step 10: Install the new display unit and reinstall the trim pieces
Note: If you have a digital instrument cluster and want maps in your cluster, you may wish to run the MOST cable to the instrument cluster before you install the new display unit.
Connect the display (LVDS) and power/vehicle communication cables into the new display unit. Once the cables are connected, position the display unit in the opening the original came out of and then gently push the unit in. You may need to press around on the display unit after it is seated to fully secure it (you will likely hear clicks as you do this).
With the display unit mounted, reassemble the trim pieces that were removed. Be sure the hazard switch button assembly is connected before you reconnect power or you will get a fault in the instrument cluster that will need to be cleared.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery, clear the many instrument cluster warning lights, make coding changes and enjoy
Reconnect the battery. Doing so will cause faults in the instrument cluster when the ignition button is pressed. You can clear the faults by starting the engine (may be possible in accessory mode, but can’t recall) and from the centre position: rotate the steering wheel all the way to the left and hold it for three (3) seconds, rotate the steering wheel all the way to the right for three seconds and hold it for three (3) seconds and return the wheel to the centre. You may need to repeat this process twice during the same attempt (e.g., centre → left → right → left → right → centre). If you still have lights after this procedure, going for a short drive will normally clear them; you could alternatively attempt to clear faults with the diagnostic scan tool.
Use the diagnostic scan tool to view the new MIB main unit’s coding and adaptions. Using the backup you took from the original MIB main unit, adjust any coding and adaptations to account for vehicle specific options and characteristics. Common coding changes are included in a different post.
Congratulations! You’ve completed the retrofit. Be sure to post some pictures.
Last edited:
