Burger Tuning JB4 Golf 1.8TSI MQB specific information thread

[Steenbeek]

IS20. I haven't see any codes yet and I scan with obdEleven often. I originally had my FOL at 60 but was advised to make it 70. I just lowered it back to 60 and plugged in the suggested values by tipo. Here's the log - https://datazap.me/u/merc/log-1511582511?log=0&data=1-3-4-5-6-11-18-19-23-25-26-27

That's what kind of freaks me out, what I posted above was less aggressive than what George was telling me to run. Maybe he thinks I have an is20 swap...I'm stock with an inlet running 93.

Thank you for the recommendation, I plugged them in and pulled a log:
https://datazap.me/u/merc/log-1511582511?log=0&data=1-3-4-5-6-11-18-19-23-25-26-27

What exactly are you guys looking at in the logs to see if it's good or bad? I looked the ign 1-4 values and they jump all over, thinking that's not good. I also looked at the my initial boost value and then 1000rpms from it to see if I reached peak boost and I'm not, I remember reading somewhere that I should be at peak around there.

Sorry, now I am a little confused. At first you said it is stock and then you said is20. You still have two dips in your ign1. Maybe you can get it to climb without dips.

 

[Slick99]

I have been using the Beru side firing RS7 plugs for about 8,000 miles with no issues. Pulled them out recently and they looked good still. I have a set of Denso ikh24 as well. I tried them for like a day and had issues. So I put the RS7 plugs back in. Turned out it was bad gas. I stripped a coil pack stud though, so next time they come out I'm going to have to helicoil it. Not looking forward to it. I spoke to some other guys who are big turbo gtis and they said the studs do strip easily. The threads on the studs are sloppy from the factory. They said it's a good idea to chase them when you have them out. M6x1.0 thread

Stripped a coil pack stud and helicoil it? Sorry I didn't get it, I got the rs3 coils and rs7 plugs lying around n thinking to install this weekend.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[murtaza911]

excuse the silly question, have most of you guys run the USB cable into the cabin of the car?

I routed mine to the little cubby under the drivers side vent. It's out of the way and if I need to do any logging I can mount the phone to the vent and the cable reaches perfectly.

 

[TwinDad]

Stripped a coil pack stud and helicoil it? Sorry I didn't get it, I got the rs3 coils and rs7 plugs lying around n thinking to install this weekend.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Yes. The threads on the studs are not the cleanest from the factory. Taking them in and out a few times can lead to stripping the threads in the valve cover.

 

[ChrisTSI]

TWO is20 logs 94 octane on winter tires. -1 celsius windy outside tonight in Toronto.
https://datazap.me/u/crees9/is20-94-oct-23-psi?log=0&data=1-2-3-4-6-9-11-12-14-18

theirs time pulling i think.

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[TwinDad]

TWO is20 logs 94 octane on winter tires. -1 celsius windy outside tonight in Toronto.
https://datazap.me/u/crees9/is20-94-oct-23-psi?log=0&data=1-2-3-4-6-9-11-12-14-18

theirs time pulling i think.

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Timing is taking a beating. Cold air and you won't need as much boost. Keep the 4,500 up as is, but lower 4,000 to 21 and 3,500 to 20. See how it does. keep your peak target at 4,500. The is20 comes on later than the is12. My peak boost usually happens at 4,700-4,800. Your not going to get any higher boost than the is12, it will just happen a little later and you will hold more boost from 4,500 to redline. That's where the power difference will be. So take whatever peak you were hitting before, move it to 4,500-5,000 and keep everything above that about 2 psi higher than the is12 could do

 

[Bonderd]

Timing is taking a beating. Cold air and you won't need as much boost. Keep the 4,500 up as is, but lower 4,000 to 21 and 3,500 to 20. See how it does. keep your peak target at 4,500. The is20 comes on later than the is12. My peak boost usually happens at 4,700-4,800. Your not going to get any higher boost than the is12, it will just happen a little later and you will hold more boost from 4,500 to redline. That's where the power difference will be. So take whatever peak you were hitting before, move it to 4,500-5,000 and keep everything above that about 2 psi higher than the is12 could do

Is that essentially rule of thumb tuning for the is20? Basemap for is12 plus +2 psi over each rpm range?

 

[ChrisTSI]

Timing is taking a beating. Cold air and you won't need as much boost. Keep the 4,500 up as is, but lower 4,000 to 21 and 3,500 to 20. See how it does. keep your peak target at 4,500. The is20 comes on later than the is12. My peak boost usually happens at 4,700-4,800. Your not going to get any higher boost than the is12, it will just happen a little later and you will hold more boost from 4,500 to redline. That's where the power difference will be. So take whatever peak you were hitting before, move it to 4,500-5,000 and keep everything above that about 2 psi higher than the is12 could do

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7000 16

i set this and i will log tomorrow.

 

[mr wrong]

I ran mine into the cubby in front of the shifter. Had to drill a hole in the back of the cubby.

So is it a straight shot as in no danger of drilling into whatever is behind it? Once you drill the hole is it easily accessible from the other side?

Any chance you could post a pic?

 

[MeltedSolid]

Is that essentially rule of thumb tuning for the is20? Basemap for is12 plus +2 psi over each rpm range?

Hu? Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you are saying, but that's not what TwinDad said. Until peak boost it should be about the same as the IS12, definitely not more, then after peak boost (around 5000rpm) you can start to add more. I have two separate maps for different altitudes, but they both go to 3-4psi over my IS12 map by 6000 rpm. TwinDad is really giving pretty safe/conservative advice; with the IS20 on my super safe daily map I tend to peak ~1psi more than I did with the IS12 (even though I don't add any with the JB4), and I hold 3.5psi more after that without coming close to the limit of the car. I've pushed it a bit more and didn't see any issues, so I have no idea what my actual limit is. Of course I am stacked, and APR's tunes like boost a lot more than just a JB4 does, so maybe my advice doesn't apply.

 

[Bonderd]

Hu? Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you are saying, but that's not what TwinDad said. Until peak boost it should be about the same as the IS12, definitely not more, then after peak boost (around 5000rpm) you can start to add more. I have two separate maps for different altitudes, but they both go to 3-4psi over my IS12 map by 6000 rpm. TwinDad is really giving pretty safe/conservative advice; with the IS20 on my super safe daily map I tend to peak ~1psi more than I did with the IS12 (even though I don't add any with the JB4), and I hold 3.5psi more after that without coming close to the limit of the car. I've pushed it a bit more and didn't see any issues, so I have no idea what my actual limit is. Of course I am stacked, and APR's tunes like boost a lot more than just a JB4 does, so maybe my advice doesn't apply.

Thats very interesting. I am new to the whole jb4 scene. My info is limited. I just assumed you tuned by boost per 500 rpm increase... Regardless would there be any benefit from say a Apr stage 1 or 2 tune with a turbo swap without the stack? I know the boost profile would be for the is12, but in theory the is20 should make more power even with the IS12 APR maps??

 

[MeltedSolid]

Thats very interesting. I am new to the whole jb4 scene. My info is limited. I just assumed you tuned by boost per 500 rpm increase... Regardless would there be any benefit from say a Apr stage 1 or 2 tune with a turbo swap without the stack? I know the boost profile would be for the is12, but in theory the is20 should make more power even with the IS12 APR maps??

Just APR Stage 1 with the IS20 is effectively what I run when in map 4 (the pass through/no intervention map for the JB4). I do that when I need to make a baseline log or expect to drive through harsh or unpredictable conditions. There definitely is a performance benefit to adding only the IS20 to APR stage 1, but 3-4 PSI is a lot and it makes a big difference. I'd guess the turbo alone gets you about half way there, and the JB4 finishes off the other half, so it's well worth it.

Something else that I've talked about on several occasions before, unless budget is a non-concern for you I don't think a tune is worth it if you're just planning to stack with it. Sure, the fueling ceiling is a bit higher, you get a slightly more responsive throttle, can left foot brake, and the speed limiter is removed, but unless that's worth $600+tax+labor to you it's a bit of a waste of money. I went stage 1 first, and had that for over a year before an IS20 swap was even possible (and maybe have slightly hit 155 mph on uh... Mexican roads), so I don't regret it, but really you should either wait for APR's tune or just go with a JB4 alone.

 

[Bonderd]

Just APR Stage 1 with the IS20 is effectively what I run when in map 4 (the pass through/no intervention map for the JB4). I do that when I need to make a baseline log or expect to drive through harsh or unpredictable conditions. There definitely is a performance benefit to adding only the IS20 to APR stage 1, but 3-4 PSI is a lot and it makes a big difference. I'd guess the turbo alone gets you about half way there, and the JB4 finishes off the other half, so it's well worth it.

Something else that I've talked about on several occasions before, unless budget is a non-concern for you I don't think a tune is worth it if you're just planning to stack with it. Sure, the fueling ceiling is a bit higher, you get a slightly more responsive throttle, can left foot brake, and the speed limiter is removed, but unless that's worth $600+tax+labor to you it's a bit of a waste of money. I went stage 1 first, and had that for over a year before an IS20 swap was even possible (and maybe have slightly hit 155 mph on uh... Mexican roads), so I don't regret it, but really you should either wait for APR's tune or just go with a JB4 alone.

Great advise! I found a good deal on an is20 for roughly $250 and was thinking I want to wait until spring time to do a turbo swap as its getting cold out and my garage has my S3 inside and the other one has all our lawn furniture Thats great news about the benefits to IS20 even on APR Stage 1, does stage 2 run more boost? Maybe the IS20 would benefit more from a stage 2 map without stack?

 

[MeltedSolid]

Great advise! I found a good deal on an is20 for roughly $250 and was thinking I want to wait until spring time to do a turbo swap as its getting cold out and my garage has my S3 inside and the other one has all our lawn furniture Thats great news about the benefits to IS20 even on APR Stage 1, does stage 2 run more boost? Maybe the IS20 would benefit more from a stage 2 map without stack?

Stage 2 runs a bit more boost, but only because it requires a downpipe, so it would be just as far away from the IS20's potential with a downpipe.

 

[ChrisTSI]

log 3 and 4 were these settings

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log 5 and 6 were different i lowered it quite a bit but i forgot the numbers. still corrections all along. U think it could be spark plugs? my mechanic just regapped the oem ones.

https://datazap.me/u/crees9/is20-logs?log=0&data=1-4 (logs 3-5)
https://datazap.me/u/crees9/is20?log=0&data=1-4 log 6