Wheels won't come off

[Strange Mud]

Most Europe cars are prone to this even Mercs etc...

Ever since my first car (which was second hand & basically they had rusted on solid inc the bolts)....as soon as I get the car off come the wheels...& a thin film of proper copper grease on the alloy hub mating face & bolt threads & bolt shoulder does the trick...never had any problems in 23yrs...

do you adjust bolt torque? Most of the time torque specs are for dry bolts.

 

[TheDoc46]

its just one of those things, that probably doesn't seem its going to want to work at first. Like a seized front knuckle on a strut or removing a rotor off when doing brake work. But bang the shite out of it with a rubber mallet, and slowly but surely, you'll get the mofo off. It's not welded on. It just needs a little persuasion !

 

[SpaceGhost]

This happened to me too. I kicked the tire pretty hard but the tire wouldn’t budge. I gave the tire a wack with a sledgehammer. Hitting rubber not rim and they popped off. I was thinking afterward that. I should have put some grease on the hub because if I get a flat I am not likely to have a sledge handy.


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[Hoon]

do you adjust bolt torque? Most of the time torque specs are for dry bolts.

Adding a lubricant would definitely affect the TQ specs.

People should not be lubing the bolts, just the mating surface. The bolts arent the problem.

 

[golfdave]

do you adjust bolt torque? Most of the time torque specs are for dry bolts.

Never have done...due to the fact it doesn't lubricate much...if fact its thickness makes it less easy to turn...

By the book "minimal lubrication" would reduce the torque by about 20Nm...for 12mm thread...

 

[Strange Mud]

mud math = 15-18%

 

[Sootchucker]

I've had this on nearly all my VW's. As was said in one of the earlier posts, jack up said wheel and chock the car, loosen lug nuts, and release handbrake (if rear wheels) or slip into neutral on the transmission (if the front). Then using a hide or rubber mallet, just keep hitting it on the inside rim, rotating the wheel 90 deg every so often (important). After a few revolutions of banging the rim, the wheel will start to wobble on the hub and you can then just use brute force to "wiggle" the wheel side to side until it frees itself.

I've always then cleaned up the rotor hub face with a wire brush and used a product in the UK called "Copper Slip" - which is a copper based anti-sieze paste, lightly smeared around the hub (not sure if you guys in the US have Copper Slip but I'm sure you have something similar).

 

[golfdave]

mud math = 15-18%

120Nm is VW spec for the wheel bolts....20Nm is about 16.5% so 100Nm spec for minimal lubrication for a 14mm thread...(wheel bolts are 14mm forgot)

I never bother to reduce that much..the bolts I use are 12.9 spec..so 219Nm min lub...& 255Nm dry...by the book max torque...

 

[yirayira]

I'm pretty sure I'm capable of removing a tire.

Not this time lol

 

[Loonster]

Not this time lol

That was actually really funny...

 

[Loonster]

A good old fashioned donkey kick does it for me, but have to hit the edges.

on another note, have any pictures of the install. trying to decide for myself if I want to go with the flaps or no

Sure do. Lots of ugly slush on the front but pretty clean. Looking not so pretty is my drivers side mirror cap which got taken right off at the car wash. They ordered a new one for me. They're $128.00 unpainted. After paint then they'll install a brand new one.









on the back. They work great.

 

[jeffkro]

Went to put on some Rokblokz yesterday which I got done and they look pretty good. Better still I drove in some ugly brown slush and none of it wound up on the car.

The fronts went on really easy, I just turned the wheels to give me room to work. Then I got to the rears and decided it would be best to just remove the rear wheels so I could do what I needed to do. I took off the lug nuts and tried as hard as I could to get the wheel off. No luck on either side. I got the manual out just to see if there was something else that needed to be done. Finally I called the VW dealer and asked a service advisor if there was any advice he could offer. He was stumped at my problem.

Anyone else ever run into this?

bigger hammer

 

[TheJokker]

I've had this on nearly all my VW's. As was said in one of the earlier posts, jack up said wheel and chock the car, loosen lug nuts, and release handbrake (if rear wheels) or slip into neutral on the transmission (if the front). Then using a hide or rubber mallet, just keep hitting it on the inside rim, rotating the wheel 90 deg every so often (important). After a few revolutions of banging the rim, the wheel will start to wobble on the hub and you can then just use brute force to "wiggle" the wheel side to side until it frees itself.

I've always then cleaned up the rotor hub face with a wire brush and used a product in the UK called "Copper Slip" - which is a copper based anti-sieze paste, lightly smeared around the hub (not sure if you guys in the US have Copper Slip but I'm sure you have something similar).

This...

 

[CBR2]

If all above measures have failed, then use 2x4 or 4x4 between wheels together with jack to pop off wheels. Using inside rim of one wheel as base for 2x4 which in turn is base for jack push off other wheel with jack .

You have disengaged pkg break, right?

BTW , idea of loosening wheel bolts and driving car not a good one.

 

[Strange Mud]

why not? I would agree if it was 2 turns but 1/2 turn? As I mentioned I never heard of that trick just trying to learn