7
The 'Chimera' - Progression of my 1.8T by SKVeeDubR
- Thread starter HOT H2O
- Start date
Looks really clean. Let me know if you have the part number or an extra set you may be willing to part with
Jason
Cheers!
And for sure man, I actually have one extra set. I bought two thinking 'just in case' lol, my wife thinks I'm crazy because I sometimes stockpile rare parts :roll eyes:
I'll PM ya
10/10/16 - Clubsport Rear Sway Bar and VW 'Driver Gear' Springs
So.. I've actually had these DG springs sitting around for some time, but decided what better time to install lowering springs than right before winter and during a snowstorm haha!
Actually, I wanted to use my buddy's shop for the install rather than do the 2x4" method - more on that later..
Here we are, parts eagerly awaiting their new home. Notice I have already swapped the Superturismos for my winter setup - OEM 18" Durbans that came stock with this 1.8T
I won't belabour the install process here, as there are several DIY examples readily available with a quick search that should answer all your questions.
Driver's front freshly installed.
While I am in no way knocking the 2x4" method in favour of using a hoist I was a little suspect of jacking up on the spring perch, and figured I would do the R&R based on how VW would do it.. Looking back, after it was all said and done I think I would give the 2x4" method a go as removing the axle bolt and associated components proved to be a bit of a PITA in it's own right. But, what's done is done and I honestly don't know which method would be quicker. Obviously if you're doing a spring install in your garage without a hoist, the 2x4" method sounds pretty slick.
Now on to the rears..
Here is the Driver's rear DG spring freshly installed. The rears are a cake walk compared to the fronts.
So pretty. (sorry for the dirt on the rest of the undercarriage, it is our DD after all )
Clubsport RSB
I took this opportunity to install an uprated RSB used on the Clubsport GTI. As far as I am aware it is a euro-only piece and as such I had to have it brought in from Germany. It might be spec on some PP GTIs but I have not seen any confirmation on this, as everything I have seen so far shows that the PP rear sway is 3.0mm wall thickness whereas this is 3.6mm.
Here is the stock RSB from the 1.8T (top, dirty), and the CS RSB (Bottom, shiny)
The stock RSB on the 1.8T is a 19mm bar, an I assume the wall thickness is somewhere around 2.5 or 2.6mm.
The uprated CS RSB is technically 21.7mm x 3.6mm wall thickness. This should prove to be a nice, subtle but noticeable OEM+ upgrade suitable for a DD that gets driven spiritedly
Also notice how much 'shorter' the CS RSB is compared to stock - this should definitely prove to tighten things up where it counts, and be a nice compliment to the DG springs.
No muss no fuss, bar bolts straight up - OEM+
Now for some rough FTG measurements
*All FTG measurements were done on level garage floor, car is stock weight, nothing removed or added that should affect the suspension. Brand new Michelin X-ice winter tires in 225/40/18 on 18" x 7.5" OEM Durban wheels. Tire pressure 37psi/corner
** I should also mention that this 1.8T came with OEM 'Sport Suspension' which was an option in Canada, not sure about other regions. From new, this golf already sat lower than the standard 1.8T with regular suspension.
Stock Sport Springs
Front 26 7/8" FTG
Rear 26 3/4" FTG
VW Driver Gear Springs
Front 26 1/8" FTG
Rear 26 0" FTG
Approximate lowering over my Stock Sport Springs right now is .75" front, .75" rear. I will update the DG FTG after the springs have a chance to settle. Compared with my 2016 Golf R with DCC on stock suspension, the golf 1.8T now sits about the same.
I know it's not a DRAMATIC change, especially over the sport springs that came with the car, but for me and my goals with this car they are just about perfect. As I've mentioned before, this is our primary DD which will see all sorts of road conditions, and frankly, lower is not always better when it comes to driving dynamics.
So far I have noticed a subtle but pleasant increase in the firmness of the ride, and much of the body roll has been eliminated. If the 1.8T golf handled like this from factory with these springs and RSB I suspect more people would be inclined to choose this little golf over a GTI.. I'm slowly bridging the gap haha!
So.. I've actually had these DG springs sitting around for some time, but decided what better time to install lowering springs than right before winter and during a snowstorm haha!
Actually, I wanted to use my buddy's shop for the install rather than do the 2x4" method - more on that later..
Here we are, parts eagerly awaiting their new home. Notice I have already swapped the Superturismos for my winter setup - OEM 18" Durbans that came stock with this 1.8T
I won't belabour the install process here, as there are several DIY examples readily available with a quick search that should answer all your questions.
Driver's front freshly installed.
While I am in no way knocking the 2x4" method in favour of using a hoist I was a little suspect of jacking up on the spring perch, and figured I would do the R&R based on how VW would do it.. Looking back, after it was all said and done I think I would give the 2x4" method a go as removing the axle bolt and associated components proved to be a bit of a PITA in it's own right. But, what's done is done and I honestly don't know which method would be quicker. Obviously if you're doing a spring install in your garage without a hoist, the 2x4" method sounds pretty slick.
Now on to the rears..
Here is the Driver's rear DG spring freshly installed. The rears are a cake walk compared to the fronts.
So pretty. (sorry for the dirt on the rest of the undercarriage, it is our DD after all
)
Clubsport RSB
I took this opportunity to install an uprated RSB used on the Clubsport GTI. As far as I am aware it is a euro-only piece and as such I had to have it brought in from Germany. It might be spec on some PP GTIs but I have not seen any confirmation on this, as everything I have seen so far shows that the PP rear sway is 3.0mm wall thickness whereas this is 3.6mm.
Here is the stock RSB from the 1.8T (top, dirty), and the CS RSB (Bottom, shiny)
The stock RSB on the 1.8T is a 19mm bar, an I assume the wall thickness is somewhere around 2.5 or 2.6mm.
The uprated CS RSB is technically 21.7mm x 3.6mm wall thickness. This should prove to be a nice, subtle but noticeable OEM+ upgrade suitable for a DD that gets driven spiritedly
Also notice how much 'shorter' the CS RSB is compared to stock - this should definitely prove to tighten things up where it counts, and be a nice compliment to the DG springs.
No muss no fuss, bar bolts straight up - OEM+
Now for some rough FTG measurements
*All FTG measurements were done on level garage floor, car is stock weight, nothing removed or added that should affect the suspension. Brand new Michelin X-ice winter tires in 225/40/18 on 18" x 7.5" OEM Durban wheels. Tire pressure 37psi/corner
** I should also mention that this 1.8T came with OEM 'Sport Suspension' which was an option in Canada, not sure about other regions. From new, this golf already sat lower than the standard 1.8T with regular suspension.
Stock Sport Springs
Front 26 7/8" FTG
Rear 26 3/4" FTG
VW Driver Gear Springs
Front 26 1/8" FTG
Rear 26 0" FTG
Approximate lowering over my Stock Sport Springs right now is .75" front, .75" rear. I will update the DG FTG after the springs have a chance to settle. Compared with my 2016 Golf R with DCC on stock suspension, the golf 1.8T now sits about the same.
I know it's not a DRAMATIC change, especially over the sport springs that came with the car, but for me and my goals with this car they are just about perfect. As I've mentioned before, this is our primary DD which will see all sorts of road conditions, and frankly, lower is not always better when it comes to driving dynamics.
So far I have noticed a subtle but pleasant increase in the firmness of the ride, and much of the body roll has been eliminated. If the 1.8T golf handled like this from factory with these springs and RSB I suspect more people would be inclined to choose this little golf over a GTI.. I'm slowly bridging the gap haha!
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Yeah I think I'm going to be totally happy all things considered. When I first lowered the car off the lift after the install my buddy says to me - 'I don't notice any difference'.. So I told him to get out a tape measure.. As it sat right then and there it was basically the same height as with my original Sport Suspension springs lol, I was beginning to think the sport springs that came with the car might have been the same
After some city/highway driving the car has settled some, and is approximately .75" lower than it was previously.. I'm going to measure a stock MK7 Golf to see where the standard suspension sits in relation, but I know its quite a bit higher.
As mentioned, this car is our DD and will see all sorts of weather and road conditions, so I don't want it to be a snow plough, but I definitely don't need excessive wheel gap or body lean/sway.
It would have been nice to test the affects of the DG springs and the CS RSB separately, but with life being busy it took a while for me to get these springs installed as it was (I've had them since July).
But overall a VERY noticeable improvement in handling. It feels as though the spring rates are stiffer with the DG springs over stock, but I don't know the stock spring rates. Nice and firm, yet compliant. Absolutely no risk of bottoming out or fender/wheel rub that I've experienced so far.
The CS RSB really IS a noticeable improvement over the stock golf RSB as well.. Very flat and tight.. The rear end no longer feels loose and vague. Highly recommend this bar!! The one you're after is 5Q0 511 305 BA (you can also use 5Q0 511 305 AT, however this bar has a wall thickness of only 3.0mm vs 3.6mm of the 'BA' bar)
Stock Golf 1.8T Sport Springs, OZ Wheels 18x8 et 48 , all-season tires 225/40/18
DG Springs installed, OEM Durban Wheels 18x7.5 et51?, Winter tires 225/40/18
*It really is a bit difficult to see just how much lower the car sits now with the DG springs, especially when I don't have the aspects identical between the two pics - lighting, distance, wheels etc.. But it definitely is lower. Damn near exactly what I was after. Any lower and I feel I would regret it in the long run. This car is also our family hauler and DD.
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Bäsemödel
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Lancaster PA
Did you say cost on the bar? Did you use stock or shortened end links? Sorry if you mentioned that and I missed it...
Believe it or not, this thicker bar (21.7 x 3.6mm) was actually less expensive than the 3.0mm bar.
I don't recall price exactly as I get a bit of a friendly deal, but OEM bars are about $100USD give or take IIRC
Used stock endlinks as apparently there is no difference between the 1.8T and the GTI to begin with.
callipers measure it at 22mm but it's probably taking in to consideration the powdercoat
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triharderken
Ready to race!
- Location
- Vancouver, WA
Loving this thread. I'm looking at a GTI after VWoA buys back my Golf TDI, but your sweet build and the availability of the GSW with AWD might sway me...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cool yeah I just checked out your thread - nice work keep it up!!
Stay tuned, I have some ideas which are dependent on what might be made available to me - may be more OEM R-content in my future ��
No pun intended? haha!
And yeah I really am digging this 1.8T, having a lot of fun with its potential. Initially this car was supposed to stay Stock as our DD grocery-getter lol but who are we kidding - who keeps anything 'stock' haha!
Yeah the new Sportwagen with 4-Motion is pretty exciting - I love the cladding of the AllTrack and it would have been a strong consideration had it been available when we were looking to add to the stable. But we got such a killer deal on this 1.8T that I really can't complain, and to be perfectly honest I think a 1.8T can look so much cleaner than a GTI with a few small details - there a few details about the GTI I just don't care for. No offence to GTI owners as there are some pretty damn impressive GTIs out there too.
And as I have said before - this 1.8T/MQB is so incredibly accepting of modifications, OEM or otherwise, that I am having a lot of fun planning and executing all the details!
Whatever you chose I'm sure you'll be happy!
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10/20/16 - 'Snow Guard' removal
Today was a simple day - removed the OEM 'snow guard' that is nestled in the airbox prior to the filter. Only reason I did not do this extremely accessible 'mod' sooner was the simple fact that I like to kill multiple birds with one stone. So today was also going to be the start of a couple other small modifications..
Now you see me..
Now you don't!
Makes sense to remove this right before winter right!? I'm not really convinced it provides much protection against anything, however if one were to perhaps find themselves driving in a torrential downpour or accidentally go through a HUGE puddle it may prevent the filter from getting wet.
Impressions - No noticeable audible enhancement. Butt Dyno also scores it a 0/10.. Well maybe 1/10 lol
While I was under the hood I took this opportunity to remove my entire shift linkage assembly, stay tuned!
Today was a simple day - removed the OEM 'snow guard' that is nestled in the airbox prior to the filter. Only reason I did not do this extremely accessible 'mod' sooner was the simple fact that I like to kill multiple birds with one stone. So today was also going to be the start of a couple other small modifications..
Now you see me..
Now you don't!
Makes sense to remove this right before winter right!? I'm not really convinced it provides much protection against anything, however if one were to perhaps find themselves driving in a torrential downpour or accidentally go through a HUGE puddle it may prevent the filter from getting wet.
Impressions - No noticeable audible enhancement. Butt Dyno also scores it a 0/10.. Well maybe 1/10 lol
While I was under the hood I took this opportunity to remove my entire shift linkage assembly, stay tuned!
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10/21/16 - Uh ooooohhhhhh!
So in the very wee hours of the morning as I lay in bed planning my day for tomorrow I had a sinking suspicion that the OEM metal relay lever I had planned to install in the 1.8T was not going to work. So I sneak out of bed, out to the garage to either put my mind to rest or confirm my suspicions..
DAMN! My plans to modify my shifter assembly were seemingly at a standstill. Apparently the 5MT transmission components are essentially a mirror image of what the 6MT is.
This was putting a big damper on my plans for today..
So in the very wee hours of the morning as I lay in bed planning my day for tomorrow I had a sinking suspicion that the OEM metal relay lever I had planned to install in the 1.8T was not going to work. So I sneak out of bed, out to the garage to either put my mind to rest or confirm my suspicions..
DAMN! My plans to modify my shifter assembly were seemingly at a standstill. Apparently the 5MT transmission components are essentially a mirror image of what the 6MT is.
This was putting a big damper on my plans for today..
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10/21/16 - Shift Linkage saga continues..
So I figured out which metal relay lever I in fact needed for the 5-speed.. The two levers vary by only the last suffix letter. Let this be a reminder to all you kids - EVERY SINGLE AlphaNumeric in a PN serves a purpose haha.. Still don't know how I effed that one up but oh well.
I woke up in the morning, thinking I was going to have to return everything back as it was stock with the shift assembly, then I had an idea during my morning coffee! I called up a friend who runs a VW repair shop and told him what I was looking for.. He called me back a few minutes later to confirm PNs and voila!!!! Back on track baby!
Here I am in my Golf R, holding what at that time was a very exciting piece of metal haha!
After a quick varsol bath and a little scrub with a fibreglass pen she cleaned up pretty nice - no need to refinish!
'Situs Inversus' - while they are not exact mirror images of each other, you can clearly see their orientations are basically just that with respect to their operation
Now for those of you who are detail-oriented such as myself, here is an image of the MK7 OEM plastic relay lever alongside the earlier MK4 metal lever
Very much like with the 6-speed transmissions, switching from a the plastic to the metal lever will narrow your shift gate by approximately 10%. (Similar reduction in S2S throw when going from the plastic to the metal lever in the 6-speed as well)
vs
vs
This is a welcomed reduction in side-to-side action, however reducing the S2S too much can result in a 'Money Shift' - it is for this reason I caution people to avoid aftermarket relay levers which have a slotted adjustment, or are simply too short. For me, the metal relay lever (for both 5 and 6-speed) is where it's at!
So I figured out which metal relay lever I in fact needed for the 5-speed.. The two levers vary by only the last suffix letter. Let this be a reminder to all you kids - EVERY SINGLE AlphaNumeric in a PN serves a purpose haha.. Still don't know how I effed that one up but oh well.
I woke up in the morning, thinking I was going to have to return everything back as it was stock with the shift assembly, then I had an idea during my morning coffee! I called up a friend who runs a VW repair shop and told him what I was looking for.. He called me back a few minutes later to confirm PNs and voila!!!! Back on track baby!
Here I am in my Golf R, holding what at that time was a very exciting piece of metal haha!
After a quick varsol bath and a little scrub with a fibreglass pen she cleaned up pretty nice - no need to refinish!
'Situs Inversus' - while they are not exact mirror images of each other, you can clearly see their orientations are basically just that with respect to their operation
Now for those of you who are detail-oriented such as myself, here is an image of the MK7 OEM plastic relay lever alongside the earlier MK4 metal lever
Very much like with the 6-speed transmissions, switching from a the plastic to the metal lever will narrow your shift gate by approximately 10%. (Similar reduction in S2S throw when going from the plastic to the metal lever in the 6-speed as well)
vs
vs
This is a welcomed reduction in side-to-side action, however reducing the S2S too much can result in a 'Money Shift' - it is for this reason I caution people to avoid aftermarket relay levers which have a slotted adjustment, or are simply too short. For me, the metal relay lever (for both 5 and 6-speed) is where it's at!
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10/21/16 - More Shi(f)t
What's the point of revamping your shifter assembly if you can't shorten the Front-to-back (F2B) throw just a little?! Here is an example of what I did on my MK6 R. The plan here was similar - to relocate the pin closer to the fulcrum to effectively reduce throw.
So as it seems, finding one of those little pins most aftermarket short shifter use can be somewhat like finding a needle in a haystack. No aftermarket company will just sell you one, I can't for the life of me find one for sale on eBay or a machining shop or anywhere else.. I call them 'pivot pins', but if there is actually a proper name for them PLEASE let me know what it is or where I can buy them!!!!?
Fortunately someone answered my plea on a FB group and gave me a pin he just so happened to have laying around from an aftermarket shifter he had! Fast forward to today and as I'm mocking up the 42DD bushings I discover at this pin IS THE WRONG SIZE!!!! Brain working overtime now.. Thank the maker I hadn't already cut off the original pin (Which I almost did the night before!).. This pin was an 8mm pin, and it was about a mm too short for me to put the retaining clip back on.. I needed an 8.5mm pin for the rectangular end link..
I have 42DD bushings for the R waiting to go in, so I grabbed those and tested the round bushings on the 8mm pin - as suspected they fit perfect. So now my options were to a) cannibalize my shift bushings etc waiting to go in the R to use on the 1.8, or b) simply use the stock shifter, try to find the right pin (or another lever with a shorter throw).. I chose option B. As much as I wanted to drill and tap this lever to shorten the throw, it simply created more problems logistically than it solved. For now I will reinstall the original lever as-is.
But it wasn't all for not, got to install some nice eye-candy!
I've used these brass impregnated bushings by 42DD before and I am a BIG fan! If I were to only do ONE modification to the shifter it would be these bushings over anything else. They really do a lot to improve shifter feel and precision. The brass is self-lubricating, and will not break down over time like the plastic OEM bushings will.
And testing these out - brass bushings for the main pivot of the relay lever (replacing the plastic ones which wear out and get a bit sloppy over time)
One thing I have been doing is adding a little bit of graphite lube to the contact points of the brass bushings as I found the first time I used them (in my MK6 R) that it took a little bit to work them in. With the graphite lube they feel damn near perfect out of the box!
Oh ps - don't forget your Special Smiermittel for all your friction pieces 'nudge nudge, wink wink'!
Overall impression - Damn I LOVE these 42DD bushings, can't reiterate this enough!! Definitely a shorter S2S action - this feels perfect now too. The only thing I'm missing now is a shorter throw F2B.
What's the point of revamping your shifter assembly if you can't shorten the Front-to-back (F2B) throw just a little?! Here is an example of what I did on my MK6 R. The plan here was similar - to relocate the pin closer to the fulcrum to effectively reduce throw.
So as it seems, finding one of those little pins most aftermarket short shifter use can be somewhat like finding a needle in a haystack. No aftermarket company will just sell you one, I can't for the life of me find one for sale on eBay or a machining shop or anywhere else.. I call them 'pivot pins', but if there is actually a proper name for them PLEASE let me know what it is or where I can buy them!!!!?
Fortunately someone answered my plea on a FB group and gave me a pin he just so happened to have laying around from an aftermarket shifter he had! Fast forward to today and as I'm mocking up the 42DD bushings I discover at this pin IS THE WRONG SIZE!!!! Brain working overtime now.. Thank the maker I hadn't already cut off the original pin (Which I almost did the night before!).. This pin was an 8mm pin, and it was about a mm too short for me to put the retaining clip back on.. I needed an 8.5mm pin for the rectangular end link..
I have 42DD bushings for the R waiting to go in, so I grabbed those and tested the round bushings on the 8mm pin - as suspected they fit perfect. So now my options were to a) cannibalize my shift bushings etc waiting to go in the R to use on the 1.8, or b) simply use the stock shifter, try to find the right pin (or another lever with a shorter throw).. I chose option B. As much as I wanted to drill and tap this lever to shorten the throw, it simply created more problems logistically than it solved. For now I will reinstall the original lever as-is.
But it wasn't all for not, got to install some nice eye-candy!
I've used these brass impregnated bushings by 42DD before and I am a BIG fan! If I were to only do ONE modification to the shifter it would be these bushings over anything else. They really do a lot to improve shifter feel and precision. The brass is self-lubricating, and will not break down over time like the plastic OEM bushings will.
And testing these out - brass bushings for the main pivot of the relay lever (replacing the plastic ones which wear out and get a bit sloppy over time)
One thing I have been doing is adding a little bit of graphite lube to the contact points of the brass bushings as I found the first time I used them (in my MK6 R) that it took a little bit to work them in. With the graphite lube they feel damn near perfect out of the box!
Oh ps - don't forget your Special Smiermittel for all your friction pieces 'nudge nudge, wink wink'!
Overall impression - Damn I LOVE these 42DD bushings, can't reiterate this enough!! Definitely a shorter S2S action - this feels perfect now too. The only thing I'm missing now is a shorter throw F2B.
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10/21/16 - Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) delete
having done this the previous night on my buddy's MK7 R I had a pretty good idea what to expect.. After looking at the bleeder assembly and how it interfaces with the transmission I considered saying 'eff it', and tried to convince myself that having the CDV in situ was not as bad as everyone made it seem.
Well, always up for a challenge I quickly realized that was quitter talk. I recalled coming across a DIY here on Golf MK7 for the 5MT and quickly found it. It is fairly well written, and with this DIY the OP actually stopped me from making the same 'mistake' he did of removing the bleeder assembly (similar to how it is done on the 6MT). Instead of removing the bleeder assembly I simply disconnected the hydraulic line coming from the reservoir and fished out the offending little bastard!
And here it is (well in the case of the 5MT there is also a little o-ring which serves to hold the CDV in place)
And here is one more pic because everyone likes pictures right!? The yellow piece is a CDV removed from a MK7 R, it is held in by tension from the bleeder valve itself. The actual CDVs are virtually identical in every aspect other than colour - no clue why they are different colours but I'm kinda curious now haha!
Just like everyone else is saying, this is how it should have been from factory! Someone also described it as their left and right feet were finally 'talking' again.
I like to say that this damn little CDV helps to make bad drivers better, and better drivers bad. (feel free to quote me on that one haha! )
Impression - Wow. Honestly, when we first got the 1.8 I had actually stalled it a few times. Even learning to drive a manual transmission (over twenty years ago) I never stalled so much. Also, it really was like my two feet were not in sync. Part of the problem was that I was used to the gear ratios in the R. Another part was I could not hear the engine in the 1.8T with low-speed maneuvering, way too quiet. But it was the CDV which really did me in. Well not any more. GTI exhaust and CDV delete. I feel like I can actually drive again lol.
Great modification alongside the shifter bushings - makes for some very precise shifting and gear engagement now. I would recommend this OEM+ (or OEM- mod, however you want to call it) to anyone who likes to feel engaged in their driving and connected to their car.
having done this the previous night on my buddy's MK7 R I had a pretty good idea what to expect.. After looking at the bleeder assembly and how it interfaces with the transmission I considered saying 'eff it', and tried to convince myself that having the CDV in situ was not as bad as everyone made it seem.
Well, always up for a challenge I quickly realized that was quitter talk. I recalled coming across a DIY here on Golf MK7 for the 5MT and quickly found it. It is fairly well written, and with this DIY the OP actually stopped me from making the same 'mistake' he did of removing the bleeder assembly (similar to how it is done on the 6MT). Instead of removing the bleeder assembly I simply disconnected the hydraulic line coming from the reservoir and fished out the offending little bastard!
And here it is (well in the case of the 5MT there is also a little o-ring which serves to hold the CDV in place)
And here is one more pic because everyone likes pictures right!? The yellow piece is a CDV removed from a MK7 R, it is held in by tension from the bleeder valve itself. The actual CDVs are virtually identical in every aspect other than colour - no clue why they are different colours but I'm kinda curious now haha!
Just like everyone else is saying, this is how it should have been from factory! Someone also described it as their left and right feet were finally 'talking' again.
I like to say that this damn little CDV helps to make bad drivers better, and better drivers bad. (feel free to quote me on that one haha!
)Impression - Wow. Honestly, when we first got the 1.8 I had actually stalled it a few times. Even learning to drive a manual transmission (over twenty years ago) I never stalled so much. Also, it really was like my two feet were not in sync. Part of the problem was that I was used to the gear ratios in the R. Another part was I could not hear the engine in the 1.8T with low-speed maneuvering, way too quiet. But it was the CDV which really did me in. Well not any more. GTI exhaust and CDV delete. I feel like I can actually drive again lol.
Great modification alongside the shifter bushings - makes for some very precise shifting and gear engagement now. I would recommend this OEM+ (or OEM- mod, however you want to call it) to anyone who likes to feel engaged in their driving and connected to their car.
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