nicholam77
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Minneapolis
Installed my KMD Tuning stainless steel clutch line this afternoon. It's a fairly easy job, just disconnect the OEM line from the slave bleeder on one end and clutch master cylinder on the other end, replace with the new line and then bleed the system. Both ends are held in with metal retaining clips.
To get access to both ends you will need to remove the air box, the battery, and the battery tray. The battery tray has three 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut at the locations in the pic below. The positive battery lead wires are zip tied to it so you will probably have to cut those free.
After removing the battery tray you will see where the clutch line connects to the clutch master cylinder against the firewall on the driver's side (#1 in the below pic). In the middle of the line there is a clip (#3 in the below pic) holding it to the side. It is underneath where the arrow is pointing and just lifts out by hand if you feel around underneath:
I removed the clutch master cylinder end first with two small screwdrivers. One to push the bottom of the retaining clip up, and one to pry underneath the top of the clip and pull it out. Space is limited so this took some patience. Also this clip does not have a stop so don't pry so hard that it goes flying into the engine bay and gets lost.
Once the retaining clip is out just pull the hose out. It requires a bit of force. Some fluid will spill so be ready to catch it with a towel or zip lock baggy.
The slave side is easier to access and comes off the same way. That clip has a stop so it just needs to be raised, not fully removed.
To install the new line, just do the reverse and replace the retaining clips. New stainless line installed at both ends:
Once everything is secure, bleed the clutch system. It helps to attached a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw so you can monitor the air bubbles coming out. And make sure to keep the reservoir topped off at all times.
Just for reference, here is what the stock line looks like. Its actually half rubber hose and half hard line. At the end is a black plastic turbine looking thing -- I left this attached to the car side -- hopefully that is correct! The KMD part did not include this and was just long enough to reach it so I figured it needed to stay and be part of the system.
And this is the KMD Tuning part:
Impressions:
It does make a difference, although not a drastic one. The pedal feel is still light and soft, but it does seem the engagement window has been focused. In driving around I feel like my starts in 1st from a standstill are easier and don't require slipping the clutch to get a smooth start.
Hopefully this helps anyone interested in doing the same mod as it seems there is little documentation on it out there for MK7's.
To get access to both ends you will need to remove the air box, the battery, and the battery tray. The battery tray has three 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut at the locations in the pic below. The positive battery lead wires are zip tied to it so you will probably have to cut those free.
After removing the battery tray you will see where the clutch line connects to the clutch master cylinder against the firewall on the driver's side (#1 in the below pic). In the middle of the line there is a clip (#3 in the below pic) holding it to the side. It is underneath where the arrow is pointing and just lifts out by hand if you feel around underneath:
I removed the clutch master cylinder end first with two small screwdrivers. One to push the bottom of the retaining clip up, and one to pry underneath the top of the clip and pull it out. Space is limited so this took some patience. Also this clip does not have a stop so don't pry so hard that it goes flying into the engine bay and gets lost.
Once the retaining clip is out just pull the hose out. It requires a bit of force. Some fluid will spill so be ready to catch it with a towel or zip lock baggy.
The slave side is easier to access and comes off the same way. That clip has a stop so it just needs to be raised, not fully removed.
To install the new line, just do the reverse and replace the retaining clips. New stainless line installed at both ends:
Once everything is secure, bleed the clutch system. It helps to attached a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw so you can monitor the air bubbles coming out. And make sure to keep the reservoir topped off at all times.
Just for reference, here is what the stock line looks like. Its actually half rubber hose and half hard line. At the end is a black plastic turbine looking thing -- I left this attached to the car side -- hopefully that is correct! The KMD part did not include this and was just long enough to reach it so I figured it needed to stay and be part of the system.
And this is the KMD Tuning part:
Impressions:
It does make a difference, although not a drastic one. The pedal feel is still light and soft, but it does seem the engagement window has been focused. In driving around I feel like my starts in 1st from a standstill are easier and don't require slipping the clutch to get a smooth start.
Hopefully this helps anyone interested in doing the same mod as it seems there is little documentation on it out there for MK7's.
