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Pendulum mount install - Ramps or stands?

Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
My IE was broken in for a thousand miles or so I think before I got it. A good reason to buy used [emoji3]. Didn't do anything at all to my NVH, but, it was the last mount I did so everything was already tight.

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That is good to know, I didn't know that when I PM'ed you about my issues. Fuck maybe I should just reinstall it and give it a true chance. Like the vibrations aren't insane, just bad enough to make me think bad things could happen. That being said I don't really know what bad would happen...
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
That is good to know, I didn't know that when I PM'ed you about my issues. Fuck maybe I should just reinstall it and give it a true chance. Like the vibrations aren't insane, just bad enough to make me think bad things could happen. That being said I don't really know what bad would happen...
The shaking creating new creaks. Nightmare fuel.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
 

Shane_Anigans

Drag Race Newbie
Location
SE MI
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport DSG
That is good to know, I didn't know that when I PM'ed you about my issues. Fuck maybe I should just reinstall it and give it a true chance. Like the vibrations aren't insane, just bad enough to make me think bad things could happen. That being said I don't really know what bad would happen...

Well, that all depends on the car. Once upon a time, I had a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V (yes, I know). I did a few mods to it, one of which was rear engine mount insert (same as what we're talking about here) because that car also suffered from idiotic amounts of wheel hop when you tried to launch it hard. The amount of flex in the stock mount was unbelievable. The mount alone made it a bit buzzy, but I could live with that, because it was 2003 and I was young and I didn't know any better.

Later on, in an attempt to get that lazy, slow-revving slug of an engine to respond to the throttle a little better, I removed the OEM accessory drive pulley and replaced it with an aluminum one that didn't have a 12lb weight on it... And you can probably already see where this is going.

From then on, the NVH in the car went from bad to worse to intolerable. It wasn't the smoothest engine to begin with, but removing some of the things designed to dampen the vibrations was not smart. When the A/C was on at idle, you'd swear the engine was running on crushed up cinder blocks. By the time I got rid of it, the interior had more squeaks and rattles than a 1980s Ford, thanks to all the added vibrations.

I would say that I single-handedly ruined that car with my careless modding, but some credit is also due to the #3 piston, which decided one day to try to eat its way out of the engine.
 

Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
Well, that all depends on the car. Once upon a time, I had a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V (yes, I know). I did a few mods to it, one of which was rear engine mount insert (same as what we're talking about here) because that car also suffered from idiotic amounts of wheel hop when you tried to launch it hard. The amount of flex in the stock mount was unbelievable. The mount alone made it a bit buzzy, but I could live with that, because it was 2003 and I was young and I didn't know any better.

Later on, in an attempt to get that lazy, slow-revving slug of an engine to respond to the throttle a little better, I removed the OEM accessory drive pulley and replaced it with an aluminum one that didn't have a 12lb weight on it... And you can probably already see where this is going.

From then on, the NVH in the car went from bad to worse to intolerable. It wasn't the smoothest engine to begin with, but removing some of the things designed to dampen the vibrations was not smart. When the A/C was on at idle, you'd swear the engine was running on crushed up cinder blocks. By the time I got rid of it, the interior had more squeaks and rattles than a 1980s Ford, thanks to all the added vibrations.

I would say that I single-handedly ruined that car with my careless modding, but some credit is also due to the #3 piston, which decided one day to try to eat its way out of the engine.

Nice! Good experience, and way to admit your mistakes! I used my A4B5 to do trial and error with most mods to decide what I like and didn't like, as well as to some extent what the car liked and didn't like.

In my mk7 I have 034 engine and trans mounts. Before that I was running just the I.E dogbone insert and had issues with NVH. I figured that installing the 034 mounts would help reduce the NVH with the I.E insert installed, but it did not. I am planing to buy an 034 insert, mainly to compare and contrast, but I had been talking to Demi a bit about my issues, and after his posts here, maybe I just have to wear in the I.E insert.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
Nice! Good experience, and way to admit your mistakes! I used my A4B5 to do trial and error with most mods to decide what I like and didn't like, as well as to some extent what the car liked and didn't like.

In my mk7 I have 034 engine and trans mounts. Before that I was running just the I.E dogbone insert and had issues with NVH. I figured that installing the 034 mounts would help reduce the NVH with the I.E insert installed, but it did not. I am planing to buy an 034 insert, mainly to compare and contrast, but I had been talking to Demi a bit about my issues, and after his posts here, maybe I just have to wear in the I.E insert.

I implore you to try the Roc Euro arm. Maybe you can even source some sturdier trans mount bolts and let us know where to buy them :). I contend that the elimination of rotational and orbital movement being transferred to the dogbone is what makes the IE insert run silent. It was sold to me by another user here because his wife didn't like the NVH, yet I experianced no NVH with the Roc Euro arm.
 

Cowzill00

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
I've had a hard time finding a concensus on the whole dogbone/nvh/stop wheel hop subject. You guys have my attention on this RocEuro arm.

It looks so simple. Not expensive, and 10 min install. Really? Do you even need a new dogbone insert with this?? The deal clincher for me though (bold):
"It also reduces the torquing of the transmission against the wheels, reducing the 'wind-up', and reducing wheel hop. It is a simple design that is extremely effective. Locally-sourced grain-fed non-GMO stainless steel." lol
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
I used ramps to install my dogbone insert. worked fine. I was more worried about being crushed by the car but hey im here haha. For the people saying break-in period is it possible. Also, did u use a torx wretch for the install? I did, no vibrations at all. I did notice after it broke in the shifts were not at snappy as before but still better then before
 

Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
I implore you to try the Roc Euro arm. Maybe you can even source some sturdier trans mount bolts and let us know where to buy them :). I contend that the elimination of rotational and orbital movement being transferred to the dogbone is what makes the IE insert run silent. It was sold to me by another user here because his wife didn't like the NVH, yet I experianced no NVH with the Roc Euro arm.

I actually have less NVH with the RocEuro arm and 034 insert than I had with the OEM arm and 034 insert.

Damn well alright then. Sounds like a good plan.
 

EmptyHeaded

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
enSUNitas
Stands. Relaxes the suspension more and the engine. I used ramps, made it more difficult.
This is what I was thinking to begin with. Unfortunately I don't have stands since I've always been able to get away with using ramps in the past, but looks like they'd be a justifiable purchase at this point.
 

seanmcd1

Autocross Newbie
Location
SC
I used ramps to install and later remove the 034 insert without any issue. Bolt went back in just fine each time.
 
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