axl911
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- dallas, tx
Yep. Their connectors do suck. How long and what setting do you have it on your car? Any issues with it long term?
7
BMS JB Stage 1 Released
- Thread starter George Smooth
- Start date
Yep. Their connectors do suck. How long and what setting do you have it on your car? Any issues with it long term?
GarabinS1
Ready to race!
- Location
- Grand Rapida, MI
Just looked into the Remus Responder, and this is what Ive been looking for this whole time! This will be great with the JB, it will make the car so much more enjoyable to drive. Thanks for sharing!
gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
It broke during the install, I got a refund, I will not be trying it again.
It rendered my car immobile for about an hour until I was able to get it off without damaging the gas pedal.
BravoMike
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Indianapolis
Hearing this and the numerous complaints of how hard this plug is to install makes me not want to buy this product. I would love so see something that would all me to shift without dumping all of my boost so that it doesn't have to build up again by the time I make it into the next gear. I think something like this or no-lift-shift would help.
I know Burger Motorsports is busy coming up with the next component to the JB1, but maybe they could come up with a plug-in for us third pedal users to help keep power through the shift..... PLLEEEEEAAAASSSSE!
gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
BravoMike
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Indianapolis
I've been eyeballing that and if it's my only option, I may go that route. I have installed many car alarms and audio systems and am quite comfortable cutting into wires and making the proper solder/heat shrink connections. That said, if someone (cough, cough... Burger Motorsports ...cough, cough) could come up with a car specific plug-n-play option, I think that would be a big hit. I don't know how feasible that may be, but at least I can hope right?
The only reason why I commented in this thread about this is because I know George reads them and want to put the idea in his head.
I don't want to derail your thread as I think it's a great and valuable tool for people to share their map 6 experiences. <-- Oops, wrong thread!
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Babyface1249
New member
- Location
- Salt Lake City, UT
This may be something to look for in the JB4 rather than the JB1. I know they were able to do this for their N54 JB4, so I would imagine no lift shift and rev limiter would be on their roadmap for this platform.
Johnny Blaze
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- SFV 818
no they cant see it, if you cleared the codes,
arizonagti1
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Lake Havasu City Az
When I installed the jb1 the plug that goes into the charge was a bitch to get off but I did finally manage to get it off but broke the clip that makes the plugs snap in to it's counterpart. However, quick trip to the hardware store and got plastic apoxy. Applied it to the clip, set it in the correct position and let it sit overnight. In the morning when I went to snap the charge pipe plug into the jb1 plug it snapped in beautifully. Now I'm just afraid for if I ever have to take the bitch off.
Map1 5.0 and DP
So finally got a chance to play with the JB1 some more after down pipe. Was going to mess around with map 6 but wanted to first see if map 1 at 5.0 was going to work better now with the new DP. On map 1 at 5.0 the car was rock solid, faster than 4.8 and steady at high revs and shifting with my DSG. This wasnt the case before DP so I can rules out 91 oct as the limiter when running 5.0 where I'm at. The DP seems to make the difference and I'm so glad I got it! Might try 5.2 after a couple days, then dive into map 6 but right now the car rocks.
VWR springs to be installed this coming Monday.
So finally got a chance to play with the JB1 some more after down pipe. Was going to mess around with map 6 but wanted to first see if map 1 at 5.0 was going to work better now with the new DP. On map 1 at 5.0 the car was rock solid, faster than 4.8 and steady at high revs and shifting with my DSG. This wasnt the case before DP so I can rules out 91 oct as the limiter when running 5.0 where I'm at. The DP seems to make the difference and I'm so glad I got it! Might try 5.2 after a couple days, then dive into map 6 but right now the car rocks.
VWR springs to be installed this coming Monday.
gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
I ran 5.2 on 93 octane, if you can run it on 91 with no logged timing issues then I may have an actual problem or false knock caused by something.
tylerf0606
Ready to race!
- Location
- Waukesha, WI
Struggling to get plug A and D off. Probably doesn't help that it's 20 degrees out.
Edit: I made this much harder than it needed to be lol. So far I'm loving this thing.
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
Edit: I made this much harder than it needed to be lol. So far I'm loving this thing.
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
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Installed the Wotbox on mine; it does as advertised. No-lift shifts work very smoothly. It's a "dirty cut" of ignition only, fueling is unmodified. So a succession of no lift upshifts from 2 to 3 then 4th makes for a loud bang at the 4-5 wotbox ignition cut. Keeping it floored all the way through the cut into sixth, a massive bang-bang is your récompense ;-)
You can definitely feel a little boost is maintained through the shift. Imho, the larger benefit is a much much faster and smoother shift. Gets you down the road noticeably faster.
Haven't really used LC yet. At least not from a stop: from a roll, LC can be very effective: choose to begin at a speed & à gear that lands you at 3000rpm. Clutch in, gas in, rapapapa at 3500rpm, clutch out quick & clean and the car just bolts!! Does not feel overly agressive either.
So if Burger Motorsports & George could extend the JB1 for NLS and LC, their great product would be even more desireable, especially if a selectable clean cut (fuel & ignition) feature could be built in.
A plug wasnt so much a problem for me but D was a mother fucker.
I regards to D, if you are underneath the car looking up at the D plug on the back side there is a little raised rectangular element on the plug. Within that little rectangular area you need to push down on a clip that is holding D in. Instructions are not clear on this in the text and many people have struggled (broken the plug and clip off) so you are not alone. Try using your thumb to depress the inside of the rectangular area and you should hear a click and it'll slide right off. Don't mean to call anyone out on this but asked customer service for help and although they responded was made to feel like I was missing the obvious when I don't think that was the case. Maybe update the destructions after watching someone try and do the install based on what exists. Not everyone is intimate with mechanics and the product and how these thing should work. And to anyone whose going to fire off "It was super easy and you must be retarded" save it please because the numbers are against you. BTW Ive recommended the product now to at least 10 people.
And to think I thought I was in the arctic doing it in 60 degree sunny Southern CA!
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