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APR Presents MK7 Golf R / A3 / S3 Roll-Control Stabilizer Bars

Arin@APR

GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
Location
Auburn, Al
Car(s)
B8 S4, MK7 GSW TDI


APR Roll-Control Stabilizer Bars are designed to improve corner handling without diminishing ride quality. This simple, yet effective upgrade reduces cornering load differentials between your vehicle’s inner and outer wheels during cornering. In doing so they improve the vehicle’s under and oversteer balance, giving the vehicle greater stability and control, with increased grip. Each bar is manufactured using the latest high-end techniques to offer a strong, weldless design capable of withstanding harsh track conditions.

Details: http://goapr.io/sbmqb
 

flipflp

Autocross Newbie
Location
PNW
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
And note that since they’re hollow the APR bars’ diameters aren’t directly comparable to solid bars.

Neil
Great point, also don't any one ask for the "effective" conversion to a solid bar unless APR did the maths based on their bar wall thickness haha.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk
 

Arin@APR

GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
Location
Auburn, Al
Car(s)
B8 S4, MK7 GSW TDI
And note that since they’re hollow the APR bars’ diameters aren’t directly comparable to solid bars.

Just to clarify, hollow bars are prefered, and, as such, are more costly to produce. Torsional rigidity comes from increasing the outer diameter, while the inner bits do little to nothing other than adding weight to the system. For this reason, we use a hollow bar.
 

NCM

Ready to race!
Location
Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Car(s)
2015 Golf R
Just to clarify, hollow bars are prefered, and, as such, are more costly to produce. Torsional rigidity comes from increasing the outer diameter, while the inner bits do little to nothing other than adding weight to the system. For this reason, we use a hollow bar.

Agreed on all counts.

The spring rate of a torsion bar varies with the fourth power of its diameter, so the outer part does a whole lot more effective work than the inner part. This makes it mechanically efficient to use a slightly larger hollow bar instead of a smaller diameter solid bar.

However a prospective buyer then can't compare the stiffness of different sway bar options without knowing both the OD, and if hollow, the ID/wall thickness (and then doing a fairly simple calculation). Or of course comparing the percentage stiffness of each vs. the stock bar, if the manufacturer publishes that info.

Just for grins I did a back-of-the-envelope calculation that suggests that a 25mm OD hollow bar with a 20mm ID (2.5mm wall thickness) would have about the same torsional stiffness as a 22mm solid bar, but the hollow version would weigh only half as much.
(Disclaimer: This is just an example. APR's bar is slightly larger than that, and I have no idea what its wall thickness might be.)

I had been looking at rear bars, but all of them I'd found are of the less desirable solid construction. APR's new hollow bar now pops immediately to the top of my list!

Neil
 

USA

Ready to race!
Location
Frisco,Texas
Just to clarify, hollow bars are prefered, and, as such, are more costly to produce. Torsional rigidity comes from increasing the outer diameter, while the inner bits do little to nothing other than adding weight to the system. For this reason, we use a hollow bar.
I was recommended the 034 being new to this community I trusted that my vendor knew what he was doing. Boy was I wrong. So am selling the 034 and bought the Eibach front and rear. Which seems to be same specs. Are these Eibach’s renamed APR?
 

flipflp

Autocross Newbie
Location
PNW
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
Just for grins I did a back-of-the-envelope calculation that suggests that a 25mm OD hollow bar with a 20mm ID (2.5mm wall thickness) would have about the same torsional stiffness as a 22mm solid bar, but the hollow version would weigh only half as much.
(Disclaimer: This is just an example. APR's bar is slightly larger than that, and I have no idea what its wall thickness might be.)

Neil

You're smart, I like you. That's about the math I've come to in the past, and just to be a contrarian here, I chose a solid bar for durability (yes in the 1/1,000,000 chance that a hollow bar rusts or fatigues and fails) but also for simplicity and cost. Sure there is a weight savings using a hollow bar, but that weight is less than a foot off the ground so I'm not fussed. I wanted a bit more rotation in the rear and didn't want to undergo a front bar installation either.

I am a fan of matched sets of bars that have been tested, since sway bars are all about TUNING. More rear bar for over steer, more front bar to combat under steer, and the balance of that is almost completely a personal preference. These bars are adjustable, so you can tune even further which is nice.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
"designed" not to diminish ride quality, but do they? And I would prefer black instead of red bars. Why make it obvious you modded the suspension when you need warranty work, just so you can show them off? Must really think R/S3 owners are shallow.
 

reallypeacedoff

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles
"designed" not to diminish ride quality, but do they? And I would prefer black instead of red bars. Why make it obvious you modded the suspension when you need warranty work, just so you can show them off? Must really think R/S3 owners are shallow.

APR's brand color is — you guessed it — red.

It's called branding. VW puts a VW logo on your car. Fender has their logo on your speakers.

If warranty work concerns you, then don't mod. Simple.

Please stop with your salty comments.
 
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