Anybody has stock clutch on manual & uni stg1?

[The Fed]

From everything i've read on the forum it looks like if you have a 6mt and don't want to burn your clutch don't tune your car, it looks like the stock clutch can only handle about 300lb-ft of torque and every stage 1 tune out there puts you over that. It's that reason i'll be keeping mine on the stock tune because i drive a lease and even the jb1 will burn a clutch, so just bolt on's for me.

That brings up another question. When a car is inspected on lease return, does a dealer hook the car up to ODIS and do a scan? If so, the scan will show the dealer the owner flash tuned the car. Does VW require the scan to be sent to them to certify the car? If so, I don't think the car will be eligible for certification. And the owner of the car will need to pay for a new OEM flash tune or possibly a whole new ECU to return it to stock condition. Both of these items can only come from VW, and VW decides which is done. VW can easily say they don't know if anything else is compromised so they will only supply a new ECU. Or TCU, for that matter. I wouldn't be surprised to hear of owners needing to buy out their cars in the future. There are still some people who tune leased cars.

 

[VDuBNIT]

I may be wrong on this, but isn't the clutch not covered under the drive train warranty anyway? Thought I heard that some where... which if true says a lot about VW's faith in their clutches lol.

No, your warranty will NOT cover a slipping clutch.

 

[2Germans]

I am on Unitronic Stage 1+ with 6mt currently @6700 miles and fine so far..

Love the tune!!

 

[mattd502]

That brings up another question. When a car is inspected on lease return, does a dealer hook the car up to ODIS and do a scan? If so, the scan will show the dealer the owner flash tuned the car. Does VW require the scan to be sent to them to certify the car? If so, I don't think the car will be eligible for certification. And the owner of the car will need to pay for a new OEM flash tune or possibly a whole new ECU to return it to stock condition. Both of these items can only come from VW, and VW decides which is done. VW can easily say they don't know if anything else is compromised so they will only supply a new ECU. Or TCU, for that matter. I wouldn't be surprised to hear of owners needing to buy out their cars in the future. There are still some people who tune leased cars.

Yeah if you flash your car the dealer will know as soon as the plug it in it will be automatically flagged, the jb1 makes a good workaround for this because it's undetectable, but like I said I drive a lease and the idea of burning out a clutch on a car I don't plan on buying out at the end seems like a waste of money to me, I want to purchase a golf r once my lease is up so I don't want to pour money into something that I won't get a return from.


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[elamothe15]

Check out this thread for some great JB1 clutch info

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22737

 

[XM_Rocks]

That brings up another question. When a car is inspected on lease return, does a dealer hook the car up to ODIS and do a scan? If so, the scan will show the dealer the owner flash tuned the car. Does VW require the scan to be sent to them to certify the car? If so, I don't think the car will be eligible for certification. And the owner of the car will need to pay for a new OEM flash tune or possibly a whole new ECU to return it to stock condition. Both of these items can only come from VW, and VW decides which is done. VW can easily say they don't know if anything else is compromised so they will only supply a new ECU. Or TCU, for that matter. I wouldn't be surprised to hear of owners needing to buy out their cars in the future. There are still some people who tune leased cars.

I haven't read VW Credit Lease documents but modifying the car could be a violation of the lease and could result in some penalties.

 

[fsr1]

Hmm. I'm reading through this and the thing keeps coming to mind is, driver/driving habits.

Some folks are going to get much more mileage out of a clutch, even in a stock car, than others. More torque will only widen that gap. If you are constantly trying to better a 0-60 time or pushing it all the time, then it's safe to assume your clutch will see more wear than one with more moderate usage.

What I'm saying is I've driven with people who are happy to tell you how great they are at driving a manual, but I'm often not in agreement.

I also wonder people think will be the mileage/life expectancy is on a clutch with the car being stock?

Food for thought...

 

[gameaud]

Jb1 jb4 actually make more torque than unitronic stage 1+. I was actually considering unitronic because it makes more hp but easier on clutch due to lower torque.

 

[PLF8593]

I am saying that it's exaggerating to say that all clutches will burn when tuned because it's not the case I know that. But I am trying to seek info with ppl who actually are in that situation to gage the risk of it more or less, that's all. Can't be all black or white afterall but i'll definitely agree with you that who's behind the wheel probably has a lot to do with the clutch's life.


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It actually isnt an exaggeration. MOST clutches will fail within 10-20K at Stage 1 power. ~Some~ will slip the day you tune, on your very first pull. Even less will hold 50K+ at Stage 2 power. JB1 power is safer than a tune, but still burns plenty peoples clutches within 30K. It is very accurate to say "If you don't want to replace your clutch, leave your power stock."

Pay to play buddy. The manual is the no-cost option, so they cheap out on the clutch assemblies (understandably so)

 

[K_C]

I am on Unitronic Stage 1+ with 6mt currently @6700 miles and fine so far..

Love the tune!!

Stock clutch still holding up? I've got a 2017 6-speed and I'm looking to tune. Thinking about doing new clutch at same time, but if others are holding up might just do tune now.

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[greggles]

We've had owners with stock clutches get slippage with an NPM on the lowest setting. It's a crapshot what your clutch will hold. You can't read forums and threads and hope that because someone said "if you just drive carefully" or someone else said "my cars been fine for 40k miles!" that your car will be perfectly fine.

Not a single person can tell you, because your car isn't theirs. And every single car is slightly different. If you tune, you will most likely have to replace your clutch assembly, sooner instead of later. No if's, no butts...that's it. Don't want to replace your clutch? Don't tune the car. Very simple.

 

[The Fed]

I always figure, why tune a car if you're not able to get the full benefit from it? Granny driving so you put less strain on the clutch? Why bother?

I'll need to ask a tech but I'm not positive merely hooking up to ODIS automatically transmits a scan to VW. I thought VW only sees the scan when the tech submits a warranty claim, then they need to attach a copy of the scan.

 

[nate704]

We've had owners with stock clutches get slippage with an NPM on the lowest setting. It's a crapshot what your clutch will hold. You can't read forums and threads and hope that because someone said "if you just drive carefully" or someone else said "my cars been fine for 40k miles!" that your car will be perfectly fine.

Not a single person can tell you, because your car isn't theirs. And every single car is slightly different. If you tune, you will most likely have to replace your clutch assembly, sooner instead of later. No if's, no butts...that's it. Don't want to replace your clutch? Don't tune the car. Very simple.

True!

 

[PLF8593]

It actually isnt an exaggeration. MOST clutches will fail within 10-20K at Stage 1 power. ~Some~ will slip the day you tune, on your very first pull. Even less will hold 50K+ at Stage 2 power. JB1 power is safer than a tune, but still burns plenty peoples clutches within 30K. It is very accurate to say "If you don't want to replace your clutch, leave your power stock."

Pay to play buddy. The manual is the no-cost option, so they cheap out on the clutch assemblies (understandably so)

We've had owners with stock clutches get slippage with an NPM on the lowest setting. It's a crapshot what your clutch will hold. You can't read forums and threads and hope that because someone said "if you just drive carefully" or someone else said "my cars been fine for 40k miles!" that your car will be perfectly fine.

Not a single person can tell you, because your car isn't theirs. And every single car is slightly different. If you tune, you will most likely have to replace your clutch assembly, sooner instead of later. No if's, no butts...that's it. Don't want to replace your clutch? Don't tune the car. Very simple.

I always figure, why tune a car if you're not able to get the full benefit from it? Granny driving so you put less strain on the clutch? Why bother?

all of these things.

 

[K_C]

I've decided to go Uni Stage 1+ on my 2017 mk7 gti. Only 1250 miles currently. I know the clutch will go at some point. Will probably go with SRE stage 1 clutch. Should I just do the new clutch before tune or see how long stock clutch lasts with tune then do the swap? What am I risking by waiting, doing damage to flywheel?

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