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The Great Clutch debate!!!

ITGUY

Autocross Newbie
Location
PA
So after the great tune debate (I picked ED Maestro Thanks everyone for all the input) I figured on starting the great Clutch debate. With so many options available (twin disks, Sachs, BFI, Southbend, Clutchmasters, DKM and DIY's) SMF flywheels, DMF flywheels. I figure we could talk about what you have and how do you like it.

I'm at 61k in miles and have been contemplating switching out the current DMF to a SMF since I've read about the possibility of failures. I'm currently looking at the DKM twin disk, Sach SRE or even
DualMassFlywheel.com

Thanks
 

marauder

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Northern Va
You just enjoy starting huge debates lol. I've been looking at the DIY TTRS clutch upgrade. Seems to be one of the cheapest options. I also don't want to go SMF. The car I at in had the BFI stage 3 kit and the chatter from the smf was annoying for a daily.
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
The dkm twin disk is "smf" but in reality the setup is only 3lbs lighter than one and chatter is at a minimum to non existent, plus longevity on twin discs is longer and pedal feel is better while holding power is greater. Just too many benefits ignore. I have all the individual weights of oem vs dkm in my review thread. Also great choice on your tune, you will not be disappointed

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

ITGUY

Autocross Newbie
Location
PA
Yes I was eyeing that DKM twin disk 1400 or the DKM Stage 2 (795) which is rated at 440 ftlbs, which has some springs built into the disc to help with the chatter. I figure if the DMF is gone there is one less likely thing to fail. Knowing that there is a chance for chatter on SMF's I figured a fluidampr would fix that issue.
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Yes I was eyeing that DKM twin disk 1400 or the DKM Stage 2 (795) which is rated at 440 ftlbs, which has some springs built into the disc to help with the chatter. I figure if the DMF is gone there is one less likely thing to fail. Knowing that there is a chance for chatter on SMF's I figured a fluidampr would fix that issue.
Fluidampr does help. I put it on mine

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

Twillo

New member
Location
darlington
Hi,

I have recently had my GTI PP tuned with a high output stage 1 remap, it made 316bhp and 363lbs of torque, driving home my stock clutch slipped! in 6th gear, i was shocked due to my car only having 30k miles on it!

ended up going for the sachs performance sintered clutch and pressure plate, and installed a new LUK duel mass fly while i was on! all in about £1200 inc labour!!!
but it drives amazing now and will handle the power fine! as well as much more if i go that route!
 

Oldschoolmk7

Go Kart Champion
Location
Yonder
^^. Oh boy another 6th gear darwin award? People just do not get it. Lol.
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

dub_guy

Ready to race!
Location
GTA
The first level of debate is SMF vs DMF. As far as I can figure out:

DMF - well the DMF is going to fail at some point.

SMF - if you can hear chatter, that means metal is hitting metal, which means something is wearing.

So you either kill the DMF or are wearing your gears, leaving metal bits in your trans.

I'm not sure which way to go. After I figure that out, I'll know which clutch to use. Mine is gone at 30,000km.
 

Scrodee

Ready to race!
Location
CSRA
Just want to chime in and mention that the noises heard in neutral at idle is called gear lash.
Clutch chatter is a violent bouncing off (or inconsistent bite) the flywheel when engaging the clutch under certain conditions.


'17 Night Blue Metallic GTI Sport 6MT | Southbend Stage 2 Daily | Boomba short shift adapter and knob | VWR downpipe, intercooler, turbo inlet pipe, & turbo muffler delete | AFE drop-in filter | AWE track catback with Vibrant 1750 resonator | Cobb AP, tuned by 5150
 

ITGUY

Autocross Newbie
Location
PA
Just want to chime in and mention that the noises heard in neutral at idle is called gear lash.
Clutch chatter is a violent bouncing off (or inconsistent bite) the flywheel when engaging the clutch under certain conditions.


'17 Night Blue Metallic GTI Sport 6MT | Southbend Stage 2 Daily | Boomba short shift adapter and knob | VWR downpipe, intercooler, turbo inlet pipe, & turbo muffler delete | AFE drop-in filter | AWE track catback with Vibrant 1750 resonator | Cobb AP, tuned by 5150

thanks for the clarification

The first level of debate is SMF vs DMF. As far as I can figure out:

DMF - well the DMF is going to fail at some point.

SMF - if you can hear chatter, that means metal is hitting metal, which means something is wearing.

So you either kill the DMF or are wearing your gears, leaving metal bits in your trans.

I'm not sure which way to go. After I figure that out, I'll know which clutch to use. Mine is gone at 30,000km.

So true.. but I've only had cars with SMF and gone way over 280,000 miles 265,000 miles and only replace the clutch once in each of them. Those transmissions were fine.. but like I was thinking if your really worried about it you can go the fluidampr route for your own peace of mind. I feel I rather get rid of a point of failure by removing the DMF.
 
Last edited:

dub_guy

Ready to race!
Location
GTA
So true.. but I've only had cars with SMF and gone way over 280,000 miles 265,000 miles and only replace the clutch once in each of them. Those transmissions were fine.. but like I was thinking if your really worried about it you can go the fluidampr route for your own peace of mind. I feel I rather get rid of a point of failure by removing the DMF.

I've also been thinking Fuildampr. However that is it's own point of failure. As well, the clutch plates for SMF have springs at the hub, so there is a point of failure.

I'm looking for the quietest longest lasting solution for my car as I expect to be driving it for at least 300,000km.
 

tknj99

Ready to race!
Location
Central VA
From what i've read the Sache SRE clutch is the best option for those that want to retain DMF and be as close to stock as possible while still having a clutch that can safely hold Stage1 or 2 power levels.. not sure on longevity though, anyone able to comment on long term use?
 
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