Anybody has stock clutch on manual & uni stg1?

[Mtlguy123]

Looking at my options but I don't wanna burn my clutch. The ppl at Unitronic obviously wanna sell their stuff & keep telling me that their stg1 is very smooth torque wise on the first 2 gears to actually avoid burning clutches.

Is anybody here on Unitronic stage 1 or 1+ and still have their stock clutch on their manual car and are doing just fine with it?


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[mattd502]

From everything i've read on the forum it looks like if you have a 6mt and don't want to burn your clutch don't tune your car, it looks like the stock clutch can only handle about 300lb-ft of torque and every stage 1 tune out there puts you over that. It's that reason i'll be keeping mine on the stock tune because i drive a lease and even the jb1 will burn a clutch, so just bolt on's for me.

 

[Mtlguy123]

From everything i've read on the forum it looks like if you have a 6mt and don't want to burn your clutch don't tune your car, it looks like the stock clutch can only handle about 300lb-ft of torque and every stage 1 tune out there puts you over that. It's that reason i'll be keeping mine on the stock tune because i drive a lease and even the jb1 will burn a clutch, so just bolt on's for me.

I think that's overshooting it. I've seen ppl keep their stock clutch & go up to stage 2 and would eventually burn it on stage 2. I am trying to figure out some form of number/percentage of ppl who's stock clutch work well with a stage 1 tune. I'd go with unitronic because it's not as torqy as APR for example so it's less likely to burn the clutch. The first & 2nd gear with Uni was given reduced torque for that purpose according to a Uni guy. Not sure how true it is, but it seems to follow what ppl generally say when they compare Uni & APR:


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[XM_Rocks]

I think that's overshooting it. I've seen ppl keep their stock clutch & go up to stage 2 and would eventually burn it on stage 2. I am trying to figure out some form of number/percentage of ppl who's stock clutch work well with a stage 1 tune. I'd go with unitronic because it's not as torqy as APR for example so it's less likely to burn the clutch. The first & 2nd gear with Uni was given reduced torque for that purpose according to a Uni guy. Not sure how true it is, but it seems to follow what ppl generally say when they compare Uni & APR:


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Why ask a question then argue with people when they respond?

If you are so sure, do it.

I am with Mattd502 in that adding any tune or piggyback will significantly shorten your clutch life. 100 miles, 1,000 miles, 10,000 miles? Who knows.

No two people are the same though and the biggest determination in clutch life is the person sitting behind the wheel. Asking a question like this on a forum board about clutch life and trying to extrapolate your own experience is not going to result in sound info.

I personally plan to do my clutch and tune at the same time.

I have been around enough to know that it's better that way for my needs and will result in less hassle.

 

[Mtlguy123]

Why ask a question then argue with people when they respond?



If you are so sure, do it.



I am with Mattd502 in that adding any tune or piggyback will significantly shorten your clutch life. 100 miles, 1,000 miles, 10,000 miles? Who knows.



No two people are the same though and the biggest determination in clutch life is the person sitting behind the wheel. Asking a question like this on a forum board about clutch life and trying to extrapolate your own experience is not going to result in sound info.



I personally plan to do my clutch and tune at the same time.



I have been around enough to know that it's better that way for my needs and will result in less hassle.

I am saying that it's exaggerating to say that all clutches will burn when tuned because it's not the case I know that. But I am trying to seek info with ppl who actually are in that situation to gage the risk of it more or less, that's all. Can't be all black or white afterall but i'll definitely agree with you that who's behind the wheel probably has a lot to do with the clutch's life.


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[Hexxum001]

You are not going to get a definitive answer from anyone. As has already been stated, each car is different. For whatever reason, a handful of people have been able to go Stage 2 on a stock clutch and be just fine. But that's the exception, not the rule. On the other hand, some people with just a piggyback have had their clutches slip. If you don't want to risk having to change your clutch, don't tune your car. If you tune your car, most likely it's only a matter of time before your clutch will start slipping and you will need to upgrade.

 

[BlueHen]

You are not going to get a definitive answer from anyone. As has already been stated, each car is different. For whatever reason, a handful of people have been able to go Stage 2 on a stock clutch and be just fine. But that's the exception, not the rule. On the other hand, some people with just a piggyback have had their clutches slip. If you don't want to risk having to change your clutch, don't tune your car. If you tune your car, most likely it's only a matter of time before your clutch will start slipping and you will need to upgrade.

This.

 

[Jose_Gti]

That's why I got the APR stage 1 low torque. 20,000 miles later stock clutch is holding perfectly. Now if I go to stage 2 I'll do the clutch at the same time.

 

[greggles]

Every tune, piggyback, and flash on this platform (including low torque flashes) have various members with slipping clutches. (Some even just today!)

Don't want your clutch to slip? Don't tune. Otherwise, just start putting money on the side for replacement. You are going to need it sooner instead of later.

 

[ashiun]

From everything i've read on the forum it looks like if you have a 6mt and don't want to burn your clutch don't tune your car, it looks like the stock clutch can only handle about 300lb-ft of torque and every stage 1 tune out there puts you over that. It's that reason i'll be keeping mine on the stock tune because i drive a lease and even the jb1 will burn a clutch, so just bolt on's for me.

Pretty sure the number was 320 not 300, as recommended by German tune shops.

 

[slide13]

I think a lot of people get by for a while on a tune and the stock clutch. But not everybody and hard to say which side of that you'll fall on if you try it.

Personally, I just bought a 6mt and it's a concern for sure. But I just like driving a manual! My personal plan is to hold off on any tune for a while because of both warranty and clutch concerns. After a few years I plan to tune it and bolt on a few things but I also plan to budget for a clutch at that time as it seems the safe way to go. Until then, this car is pretty fun still in stock form, thankfully.

 

[Silverback1]

My friend is running a jb4 on map 2 with a stock clutch and they say it's holding up just fine so far. Not sure how many miles, though. Probably not quite what you'd get with uni, but likely close.

 

[2slowvw]

I think that's overshooting it. I've seen ppl keep their stock clutch & go up to stage 2 and would eventually burn it on stage 2. I am trying to figure out some form of number/percentage of ppl who's stock clutch work well with a stage 1 tune. I'd go with unitronic because it's not as torqy as APR for example so it's less likely to burn the clutch. The first & 2nd gear with Uni was given reduced torque for that purpose according to a Uni guy. Not sure how true it is, but it seems to follow what ppl generally say when they compare Uni & APR:


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Since you cannot get a hard answer on this because ever car is different.

Statistically speaking.. you can probably get anywhere around 10-15k miles on stock clutch with stage 1 depending on driving styles and what not. Yes some have lasted longer, others have been extremely shorter.

If you don't hard launch of floor in high gears then the clutch could potentially hold up for a while. Then again it could slip immediately no matter what.

But form my experience and what I have seen 10-15K miles on stock.

 

[The Fed]

I think a lot of people get by for a while on a tune and the stock clutch. But not everybody and hard to say which side of that you'll fall on if you try it.

Personally, I just bought a 6mt and it's a concern for sure. But I just like driving a manual! My personal plan is to hold off on any tune for a while because of both warranty and clutch concerns. After a few years I plan to tune it and bolt on a few things but I also plan to budget for a clutch at that time as it seems the safe way to go. Until then, this car is pretty fun still in stock form, thankfully.

Drivetrain warranty is 5 years 60,000 miles, so if you would need to wait up to 5 years if you are concerned about your warranty.

 

[bpw]

Drivetrain warranty is 5 years 60,000 miles, so if you would need to wait up to 5 years if you are concerned about your warranty.

I may be wrong on this, but isn't the clutch not covered under the drive train warranty anyway? Thought I heard that some where... which if true says a lot about VW's faith in their clutches lol.