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My MK7 stereo upgrade

c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Just wanted to share what I am doing with my MK7 stereo. I have a 2017 Sport, which had most everything I want in the GTI: upgraded brakes, limited slip diff, 10hp boost, xenon lights, and the plaid interior, but the standard stereo. I listened to both the standard and the Fender, and I admit the Fender did sound slightly better than the standard, but the SE was not worth the extra cost to me.

Now the base stereo is not that bad compared to some I have had in the past. My biggest grips are simply the lack of equalization ability (only three channels, really?) and some bass. In the grand scheme of things, not a lot. But since I had some leftover equipment, I figured why not do it right? My basic thoughts: To fix the equalization ability add a DSP and a sub to handle the extra bass. Obviously I would need an amp to handle a sub, but since I am adding a DSP, why not go full 3-way active and make use of the 8 available channels?

Here is what I have:
JL FiX82 / TwKD8 DSP
JL XD700x5 & XD200x2 amps
Focal 165KRX2 component speakers (front)
Focal 165KRC coaxial speakers (rear)
JL HO110RG Ported sub

I enjoy my music and I want it clear, that’s why I went with Focal. But I don’t need to shake my teeth out, so a single 10” sub works fine. A stealth sub box would have been nice, but since I stored all the amps in the trunk storage area and I wanted to use the rest of the storage area too (and the spare), I had to compromise. A benefit is that the sub is completely removable if I need the trunk space.

For the output of the factory stereo, the FiX82 really isn’t needed but since I had it laying round, I decided to use it. It takes the speaker outputs from the factory radio, strips out any time delays, combines signals, and outputs a clean, full range signal to the TwK. I use the TwK DSP features to set my crossovers, do all of my equalization, and system tuning. Then the outputs are sent to the amps, then on the speakers. A 3-way active front allows for a lot of customization of my sound.

Attached are a diagram of my layout and my final amp install in the trunk. Still have sound deadening and speaker installs to do and I will get to that in the future. Not a lot to show as far as wiring, it is pretty straight forward if you have ever installed a stereo before. But this Youtube video was great for finding the perfect spot to pull the power through the firewall. At about the 9:34 minute mark he shows the location. Kind of need to be a contortionist to get in there, but what a time saver. The video also shows where to make your radio output tie-in’s.

I ran a couple of calculations based on the ratings of my amps and the length of wire needed to reach from the engine bay to the trunk. Crutchfield has an easy to use formula and chart for those that don't want to get into extreme detail. Based on the power I would be making, I determined I would need between a 6ga or 4ga wire to be able to provide enough current with the system at full load. I went with the 4ga to be on the safe side, which also happens to perfectly fit through the grommet mentioned in the video.

So far all I have done is wire in the amps and connect the factory radio output. It sounds great, even using just the factory speakers. A noticeable improvement in imaging and bass.
 

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c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Worked on the sound deadening, wire routing, and speaker install. Watch the video from the previous post, this will all make sense. Sub install on MK7

Power wire comes down the left side from the battery. Speaker wires routed from the amps in the back, up the right side, and into the side of the dash. The lower trim panels under the doors come up pretty easy, just pull gently up from the inside, and the clips will let loose. This will allow you to run the wires along with the factory wires. I zipped tied them all together and re-installed the trim panel. The dash side panels pop off with a trim tool to give you access.

The radio comes out with a couple of homemade removal tools. I had some loose aluminum, so I cut out the same basic shape as the factory tools to remove the radio so I could access the speaker wires on the back. I used an eight wire all-in-one wire to connect from the radio to the the FiX unit using the factory radio outputs. Since I didn't want to ruin the connectors in the doors, I tied my speaker wires back into the factory speaker wires at the radio. A slight step down from 16ga to 18ga wire, but for the length of the wire runs to the doors and the power level, I should not really lose to much. I don't listen at high volumes, so should be more that enough for me with room to spare.

Some may wonder why not get rid of the factory radio and replace it with an aftermarket HU. It's simple to me, I didn't want to loose the factory integration and features available on the stock HU. The beauty of the Fix/TwK combo is that no matter how crappy the stock HU, these two devices can make it sound amazing. Plus the factory HU has enough good features that I saw no reason to get rid of it and it still looks bone stock from the outside.

Then removed the door to install some sound deadening. Covered as much as I could easily access with vibration damper and mounted my mid-range speaker in the door. Since the door is a 5-1/4" speaker and the new speaker was a 6-1/2", I had to use an adapter to ensure everything fit in right. The adapters took a little tweaking with a Dremel, but worked out great. The extra diameter also required some trimming of the inner door panel around the speaker grill to allow it to fit flush with the door. When the speaker was installed and the vibration deadening done, I added a layer of MLV to block out more noise. The heavy damper helps with the structure born vibrations & noise, while the MLV helps to cut down the airborne noise. Used together, they make a huge difference.

I got my speaker adapters from here: http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/ These fit great and Michael was awesome about making me a custom set so that I did not have to trim the door panel to much. (Model SAK023 modified to be 1-1/4" tall instead of 1-1/2").

Everyone has their own preference for vibration damper, mine happens to be Second Skin Audio. They may seem pricey, but they always seem to have a sale, plus I tend to buy the B-spec material anyway. Still works great, just didn't meet their quality specs for some reason (to thick, to thin, discolored, etc). Other options include Dynamat, Fatmat, and there is this cheap stuff from Lowe's which works okay (smells a little at first).

For those interested, I cut and pasted the door panel removal instructions at the bottom.
 

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  • MLV.jpg
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  • GTI Door panel removal.pdf
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  • Behind HU.jpg
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c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Just an update on progress.

I removed the A-pillars and installed new tweeters in place of the factory units. If you have not removed them yet, have some patience. There is a set of two (2), two-stage clips and a single standard clip that have to be released before removal. Also the trim piece is very snug where it is installed in the dash, it takes some twisting and pulling to get it out and back in again. Since there is an airbag, make sure to be very careful and disconnect the battery first.

I found this instruction to be helpful in getting the A-pillars out: A-Pillar removal.

Installing the tweeters themselves was a matter of removing the factory units and using 5 minute epoxy to set the new units in place. They are a full 30mm dome tweeter and fit perfectly. I had pulled speaker wire from the amp already, so it was a matter of threading up the side of the dash to the a-pillar and soldering to the tweeter wire. Now I have a full three-way active speaker setup running. Then came the re-installation of the a-pillar, which as long as you go slow and steady, goes back in place pretty easily.

I also installed the remote volume control for the TwK (master volume and subwoofer) in the cubby. The cubby is super easy to remove, you just kind of put your hand in there and gently pull up to release the clips and then pull it straight out (no screws). I mounted the volume control where it is easy to reach and see the LED indicator. Still have plenty of room for my phone to sit in there using Android Auto connected via USB. I routed the volume wire under the center console and carpet to get to the trunk. A bunch of screws to get the console out of the way, but now the wiring is out of sight and still looks completely stock from the outside, as long as I keep the cubby door closed when I park the car.
 

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athos56

Ready to race!
Location
Moxee
Really nice set up. I've been looking for stereo upgrades, thanks for posting this. My one complaint with the factory system is that it's treble heavy. I was actually thinking about just running full range or 4 two ways in the doors so I don't have a tweeter blasting me in the face. Maybe upgrading them and adding bass to level everything out would improve the situation.
 

mensaman

Ready to race!
Location
Missouri
That's looking great. I set my amps and lc2i up similarly under the rear deck. I'm still working on what to do for an enclosure for my 12" sub. Can't wait for more updates man!

Edit.
Currently running a 2 awg from the front batt to rear. About to upgrade to 0 awg or so, but I don't think it will fit in the same location. Any suggestions would be awesome.
 

c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Really nice set up. I've been looking for stereo upgrades, thanks for posting this. My one complaint with the factory system is that it's treble heavy. I was actually thinking about just running full range or 4 two ways in the doors so I don't have a tweeter blasting me in the face. Maybe upgrading them and adding bass to level everything out would improve the situation.

Your welcome, its good to be able to help someone else.

The best part of the upgrade is that I can set the DSP crossover to remove some of the treble harshness, so it blends better. I can also adjust the gain for the tweeters if they get overpowering. Adding more power to the rear speakers also helped with the imaging so the front tweeters were not so "in your face".

If you add 2-ways to the door, remember to disconnect the tweeter in the a-pillar so you don't get hit twice. The factory tweeters are wired in parallel with the door speakers.

Edit.
Currently running a 2 awg from the front batt to rear. About to upgrade to 0 awg or so, but I don't think it will fit in the same location. Any suggestions would be awesome.

0 awg is some big wire, make sure your battery neg and alternator wiring match.

Honestly after I found that video, I stopped looking for other places to pull wiring through the firewall, it was perfect. My next place to look would be where the factory wire bundle goes through the firewall. Usually has extra space you can squeeze in amp wires.
 
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runriot95

New member
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Very nice setup. So are you running the speakers active using the amps crossovers? I've never done that but I am strongly considering it since I purchased a 6 channel amp that will allow me to do that. Also, my crossover for my speakers is huge and this would make for an easier setup. Do you have any pics of the sub and how much room it takes up? Great job all around and thanks for the pics and info!
 

c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Very nice setup. So are you running the speakers active using the amps crossovers? I've never done that but I am strongly considering it since I purchased a 6 channel amp that will allow me to do that. Also, my crossover for my speakers is huge and this would make for an easier setup. Do you have any pics of the sub and how much room it takes up? Great job all around and thanks for the pics and info!

Actually, I use the DSP to set all of my active crossovers so I don't have to use the passive ones that come with the speakers or the ones on the amps.

You can use the crossovers on your amps if they have the capability. Make sure to set the high pass on the tweeters so you don't blow them out. An alternative is to solder a capacitor on the tweeters to act as a crossover, but I would use the amp.

I thought I had a picture of the sub installed, but can't find it right now. I will post it later.
 
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c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Here is a picture of the sub in the trunk. It has a slanted back and fits snug up against the rear seats. There is actually a fair amount of room left in the trunk, I can fit a couple suitcases no problem. If I need more space, I just unplug the speaker wire and take the sub out. Less bass, but I can squeeze in a lot of stuff.
 

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StealthGTI

Autocross Champion
Location
Newport News, VA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Nice work! I began a plan for a subwoofer upgrade, then VW decided to clearance-price the outgoing Helix upgrade. So I got the Helix and used its subwoofer output as an input to my own subwoofer upgrade, which also includes a volume knob like yours (just near the parking brake instead). I love it! My sub is hidden beneath the floor.
 

c31561

Go Kart Champion
Location
East Coast, USA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Nice work! I began a plan for a subwoofer upgrade, then VW decided to clearance-price the outgoing Helix upgrade. So I got the Helix and used its subwoofer output as an input to my own subwoofer upgrade, which also includes a volume knob like yours (just near the parking brake instead). I love it! My sub is hidden beneath the floor.

Thank you. I love that stealth subwoofer you built, very nice!
 

VDUB725

Ready to race!
My one issue with the Fender Audio system is the EQ. That infotainment CD player in the glove box, could you remove that and pop in an EQ or a head unit with one build in?

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 
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