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Old 12-29-2016, 09:44 PM   #18
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Anyone know how to post a graph from the JB4 app? I can view the graph, but I can only export it as a CSV file for excel.
Not sure with the app as I use the PC software. If you download the PC version and open the Excel file with it you will be able to export the graph.
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:40 PM   #19
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Ok. I was using my Mac at first. Maybe I'll try opening the CSV file on there with the JB4 software
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Old 12-30-2016, 12:10 AM   #20
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Ok. I was using my Mac at first. Maybe I'll try opening the CSV file on there with the JB4 software
That will work. I use a Mac as well.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:21 PM   #21
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Sent my log to George. Said everything looked good. Small timing corrections. Tweaked the boost in a couple of spots and going to try another log. See what happens. Motor definitely likes to peak around 4500 and then taper on the stock downpipe. Anything above that and I got about 2 to 2-1/2 degrees of timing correction on a couple of cylinders. It was also the first pull I did when the oil temp got up. Had a little hiccup. I think once warmed up a bit more it may be a little more steady. It's just hard to find the room around by me to do a full third gear pull. I'll have to take a drive out to the country. Lol
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:35 PM   #22
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What would be good starting numbers for boost and fuel bias in map 6, Along with boost safety if i just decided to use map 1/2
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:08 AM   #23
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What would be good starting numbers for boost and fuel bias in map 6, Along with boost safety if i just decided to use map 1/2
Map 1 and 2 are preset. You only need the boost safety in map 6. If you start playing with map 6, log a map 1 or 2 and go from there. Fuel stays at 60 and your boost safety should be set a couple of psi above your max. If you are using additive, it still needs to be your max boost. Say if the ecu shows 10, your adding 5, set the boost safety to 17
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:11 AM   #24
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Map 1 and 2 are preset. You only need the boost safety in map 6. If you start playing with map 6, log a map 1 or 2 and go from there. Fuel stays at 60 and your boost safety should be set a couple of psi above your max. If you are using additive, it still needs to be your max boost. Say if the ecu shows 10, your adding 5, set the boost safety to 17
Thanks I just wasn't sure if my unit had shipped with the correct settings for a 1.8t since its in beta as map 6 along with my boost safety was going up to 20+ psi
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Old 01-01-2017, 02:00 AM   #25
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Thanks I just wasn't sure if my unit had shipped with the correct settings for a 1.8t since its in beta as map 6 along with my boost safety was going up to 20+ psi
Yeah. The stock map 6 is set up for the gti. I'm not getting anything more than around 14.5 out of it with the cold temperatures here. I started with 10 at 1500 and then went up to 15.5 at 4000-5000. I tapered doe to around 13. I got a little timing correction and it wasn't going that high. I then looked at the log to see what the ecu boost was. It was adding as much as 7 psi in some spots. I cut back about .5-1 psi and tried it as an additive. Even though I had it to add 6 psi, it was only giving me 3-4. No corrections at all. I'm going to go back to target and turn it down to 14.5-15 max and taper down to 12. I'll see how that does. It definitely feels stronger than the JB1 ever did.

Last edited by TwinDad; 01-01-2017 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:13 PM   #26
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Just looking at possible next mod to add to the JB4. It seems like a downpipe would be the logical choice, but why not just an IS20 on the stock downpipe? I know it will be limited still, but technically we have the same flow converters as a gti with just a 1/4" smaller pipe. The gti does quite well with the JB4 as a stage 1. Couldn't we see stronger gains with a turbo upgrade over the downpipe? You can pick them up for roughly the same price. I'd also like to keep my car as stock looking and sounding as possible.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:46 PM   #27
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Just looking at possible next mod to add to the JB4. It seems like a downpipe would be the logical choice, but why not just an IS20 on the stock downpipe? I know it will be limited still, but technically we have the same flow converters as a gti with just a 1/4" smaller pipe. The gti does quite well with the JB4 as a stage 1. Couldn't we see stronger gains with a turbo upgrade over the downpipe? You can pick them up for roughly the same price. I'd also like to keep my car as stock looking and sounding as possible.
I would think if your not using the car for racing, I wouldn't mess with the turbo and core engine parts. I'm even kind of wary of doing the downpipe and going to stage 2 without upgrading the intercooler. You have to remember our cars have practically every part lesser then the gti. So pulling more power on the lower grade parts is gonna hurt.

Edit: As I think you saw in my other post about the difference between the cars, I was trying to see how close we are to the gti, for modding down the road. But the responses I got pretty much showed that we are just so far behind to justify certain things I think.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:15 PM   #28
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I would think if your not using the car for racing, I wouldn't mess with the turbo and core engine parts. I'm even kind of wary of doing the downpipe and going to stage 2 without upgrading the intercooler. You have to remember our cars have practically every part lesser then the gti. So pulling more power on the lower grade parts is gonna hurt.

Edit: As I think you saw in my other post about the difference between the cars, I was trying to see how close we are to the gti, for modding down the road. But the responses I got pretty much showed that we are just so far behind to justify certain things I think.
I wouldn't say we are that far behind for moderate power levels. The IS20 is an easy upgrade and nets some nice power gains. Before the JB4 there was only one option to do it. It was with unitronic and required a downpipe. Yes the 1.8 is not going to see 400whp like the gti, but 250+ is achievable without having to use it for racing. The IS12 was used on the golf for 2 reasons over the IS20. 1 was for fuel economy and every day usability as an economy car. 2 was not to step on the toes of the gti. They like to keep a little distance between levels. The IS20 is a direct bolt on and is supported by the JB4. That's why it's an easy go to for more power without going nuts. Especially with the ease of doing so now. That's why I now question the need for a downpipe as the next step. You can even add a stock gti downpipe to it if diameter is a concern.

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Old 01-03-2017, 01:22 PM   #29
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I wouldn't say we are that far behind for moderate power levels. The IS20 is an easy upgrade and nets some nice power gains. Before the JB4 there was only one option to do it. It was with unitronic and required a downpipe. Yes the 1.8 is not going to see 400whp like the gti, but 250+ is achievable without having to use it for racing. The IS12 was used on the golf for 2 reasons over the IS20. 1 was for fuel economy and every day usability as an economy car. 2 was not to step on the toes of the gti. They like to keep a little distance between levels. The IS20 is a direct bolt on and is supported by the JB4. That's why it's an easy go to for more power without going nuts. Especially with the ease of doing so now. That's why I now question the need for a downpipe as the next step. You can even add a stock gti downpipe to it if diameter is a concern.
Yea that's all true. But I'm just saying your going for base GTI power with all lower parts (intercooler,downpipe, transmission, drivetrain, exhaust). What's stopping you from working towards selling your golf and getting a gti?

That's kind of where I left it at. When I started to add it all up, It seems more economical to get the gti.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #30
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I wouldn't say we are that far behind for moderate power levels. The IS20 is an easy upgrade and nets some nice power gains. Before the JB4 there was only one option to do it. It was with unitronic and required a downpipe. Yes the 1.8 is not going to see 400whp like the gti, but 250+ is achievable without having to use it for racing. The IS12 was used on the golf for 2 reasons over the IS20. 1 was for fuel economy and every day usability as an economy car. 2 was not to step on the toes of the gti. They like to keep a little distance between levels. The IS20 is a direct bolt on and is supported by the JB4. That's why it's an easy go to for more power without going nuts. Especially with the ease of doing so now. That's why I now question the need for a downpipe as the next step. You can even add a stock gti downpipe to it if diameter is a concern.
GTI and TSI downpipe are the same.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:25 PM   #31
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Yea that's all true. But I'm just saying your going for base GTI power with all lower parts (intercooler,downpipe, transmission, drivetrain, exhaust). What's stopping you from working towards selling your golf and getting a gti?

That's kind of where I left it at. When I started to add it all up, It seems more economical to get the gti.
This argument always breaks down.

Rant warning!

Modify your GTI with exhaust, intercooler, tune, etc. Why not just get an R? Your Gti will never be an R. Its more economical to start with an R right? But then the Mustang guys will question why you have a $45000 "economy car." Just start with a Mustang.

Now modify your mustang! But wait, why not just trade up to the next level mustang? Your base mustang will never be a Boss Mustang. But then, it's never going to be a Corvett, so why not just save time and get the Corvett?

Now buy some hot parts for your Vett! Oh man, here we go again. I should have just bought the Z06. But then again, it will never be a Ferrari. I'm just going to ride a bicycle till I can afford the highest level Ferrari that I don't have to make any modifications too. But it will never be a true race car, so...Shit. Maybe Al Gore is right. Cars are stupid. I'm getting an electric scooter.

My TSI was $7000 less expensive than the next cheapest GTI. No small change. Plus, I hated the look of the rims and grill on the GTI. I would have at least changed the rims. I have less than $1000 into modifications and it has 250HP to the wheels. That's some good cheap speed. Everyone who drives it smiles. People with V8 cars. Its more satisfying to drive in everyday situations than an R. Is it as fast at the track? When do I go to the track?

Its not a GTI, that is not an R that is not a Mustang, that is not a Vett that is not a Ferrari that will never be a race car.

But I like it. It's the fastest car that I wanted to afford for less than 20k. I've driven stock and stage 1 mk7 gti and a stock R. I like my car better. The GTI guy likes my car too. Would a like a mod GTI or R? Yes. But I like $ too and only have so much to go around.

I have a 2016 Polaris 800 snowmobile. That was a great use for that extra $7000. I Modify that too!

Also. Some people have the Sport Wagon or the AlItrak. They come with the 1.8 only.

If a car responds to modifications and you want to modify it. Do it.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:26 PM   #32
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The intercooler is also the same. To add to it, I have a sportwagen. That's why I didn't get a gti. I do want it to be a little quicker though. Inferior parts to the gti does not mean they are inferior parts either. The 1.8 and its transmission can easily handle the power of an IS20 upgrade. I want a gti wagon. They don't make one. I can make my own though. That's why I am posing these questions. A used IS20 can be had for under $400 in good condition. Maybe less if it's from a friend. I don't want loud, I don't want to really mess with a downpipe and have to run O2 spacers etc. I like to keep it stock sounding and appearing. So.....would it make more sense to do the IS20 over a downpipe if they are basically the same price?
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:51 PM   #33
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The intercooler is also the same. To add to it, I have a sportwagen. That's why I didn't get a gti. I do want it to be a little quicker though. Inferior parts to the gti does not mean they are inferior parts either. The 1.8 and its transmission can easily handle the power of an IS20 upgrade. I want a gti wagon. They don't make one. I can make my own though. That's why I am posing these questions. A used IS20 can be had for under $400 in good condition. Maybe less if it's from a friend. I don't want loud, I don't want to really mess with a downpipe and have to run O2 spacers etc. I like to keep it stock sounding and appearing. So.....would it make more sense to do the IS20 over a downpipe if they are basically the same price?
Well damn. The way people were making it sound, the golf had nothing in common with the gti. But if the intercooler and downpipe are the same, I feel a lot more at ease. I couldn't understand how they differed so much from what people said.
I agree that the cast drivetrain and the auto transmission are fine for what you want to achieve. I wanted to achieve the same but got scoffed by other people making it sound like I should just get the GTI.

The is20 would probably be your best bet then if it's an easy swap. I still think you should upgrade the intercooler at least down the road though. Oh and exhaust might not be an idea also, because the pipes are smaller then the gti.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:06 PM   #34
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This argument always breaks down.

Rant warning!

Modify your GTI with exhaust, intercooler, tune, etc. Why not just get an R? Your Gti will never be an R. Its more economical to start with an R right? But then the Mustang guys will question why you have a $45000 "economy car." Just start with a Mustang.

Now modify your mustang! But wait, why not just trade up to the next level mustang? Your base mustang will never be a Boss Mustang. But then, it's never going to be a Corvett, so why not just save time and get the Corvett?

Now buy some hot parts for your Vett! Oh man, here we go again. I should have just bought the Z06. But then again, it will never be a Ferrari. I'm just going to ride a bicycle till I can afford the highest level Ferrari that I don't have to make any modifications too. But it will never be a true race car, so...Shit. Maybe Al Gore is right. Cars are stupid. I'm getting an electric scooter.

My TSI was $7000 less expensive than the next cheapest GTI. No small change. Plus, I hated the look of the rims and grill on the GTI. I would have at least changed the rims. I have less than $1000 into modifications and it has 250HP to the wheels. That's some good cheap speed. Everyone who drives it smiles. People with V8 cars. Its more satisfying to drive in everyday situations than an R. Is it as fast at the track? When do I go to the track?

Its not a GTI, that is not an R that is not a Mustang, that is not a Vett that is not a Ferrari that will never be a race car.

But I like it. It's the fastest car that I wanted to afford for less than 20k. I've driven stock and stage 1 mk7 gti and a stock R. I like my car better. The GTI guy likes my car too. Would a like a mod GTI or R? Yes. But I like $ too and only have so much to go around.

I have a 2016 Polaris 800 snowmobile. That was a great use for that extra $7000. I Modify that too!

Also. Some people have the Sport Wagon or the AlItrak. They come with the 1.8 only.

If a car responds to modifications and you want to modify it. Do it.
Lol, I liked your rant. I agree wholeheartly. I've been through a couple different car groups (pontiac firebirds, trucks, bmw, mercedes). They all have the same thing going on like your saying.

I was just going on the sense that if you were looking for gti power, and going to spend the same amount to get there as you saved, then it's not worth it. But If you can keep it still under GTI price, and your happy with the results, then more power to you.
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