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The Mods Begin...

Abilor

Abilor

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Albany, NY
I've had my 2018 Golf R for about a month now, and I'm rolling out my first wave of mods, a Short Shifter set-up. After advice and feedback from folks here on the boards, I went with the DieselGeek Sigma 6, the APR solid shifter bracket, and a custom Raceseng Ashiko knob in Satin Red. I'm worried the overall shifter height will still be high, but I heard that the Raceseng knob actually drops the height about 1.5".

Hopefully all arrives in a week or two. Next month or two I will be getting my mounts upgraded with BFI Stage 2 engine and tranny, APR spherical mount, powerflex puck, and 034 subframe mounts. I figure between both waves of upgrades, my shit is going to get locked down. Will upload pics of install and give impressions.

So it begins...
 
D

duycuonggg

New member
Location
Washington State
Nice man!

I have the Sigma 6 too and love it. It will be stiff and super notchy at first but once you break it in, it is very mechanically satisfying to shift.

You can set your raceseng shift knob very low, it will definitely be shorter than stock. Just don't drop it too low. The shift shaft is smooth at the top but is textured towards the bottom. If your adapter sits on the textured surface, you will actually feel the roughness during shifting.

I also recommend the clutch stop, ecs clutch bleeder valve and removal of the stock clutch spring. This will dramatically improve clutch feel. Also aftermarket pedal covers for heel toeing if you don't like the current layout. Here are mine => http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...overs-with-Heel-Toe-Extension-Ultimate-Pedals

Welcome to the club!
 
Abilor

Abilor

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Albany, NY
duycuonggg said:
Nice man!

I have the Sigma 6 too and love it. It will be stiff and super notchy at first but once you break it in, it is very mechanically satisfying to shift.

You can set your raceseng shift knob very low, it will definitely be shorter than stock. Just don't drop it too low. The shift shaft is smooth at the top but is textured towards the bottom. If your adapter sits on the textured surface, you will actually feel the roughness during shifting.

I also recommend the clutch stop, ecs clutch bleeder valve and removal of the stock clutch spring. This will dramatically improve clutch feel. Also aftermarket pedal covers for heel toeing if you don't like the current layout. Here are mine => http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...overs-with-Heel-Toe-Extension-Ultimate-Pedals

Welcome to the club!
Click to expand...

Thanks for all this feedback, man! I'm installing the short shifter and bracket this Friday, ahead of my birthday party. Raceseng knob might not be here until July, apparently because they forge it in the light of a full moon or something given that it's custom. Thanks for the protips on the knob itself, can't wait.

Definitely will check out the clutch stop and bleeder valve, as well as clutch spring. I'm not a fan of the clutch, for sure, and hopefully next year will go to a Stage 3 Twin Disk as well as get my Cobb AP. I've never gone deep into heel-toeing, but I'll check that kit out.

Next mods in the immediate future will be BFI Stage 2 mounts, APR Dogbone, and 034 subframe mounts. Can't wait to get rock solid ahead of bigger things...
 
Abilor

Abilor

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Albany, NY
The Fed said:
You're right. Who cares about a free 6-year warranty?
Click to expand...

Eh, it comes with the territory. I rationalize it as I bought the car specifically knowing I'd start modding, and if something fails, I would pay out of pocket for a better replacement anyway.

I used to work on my Mazdaspeed 3 all the time, and I did have my clutch go on me at ~8,000 miles. Put my mounts back to stock, took off TMIC and intake, and in it went. Replaced clutch under warranty, even after they found my upgraded transmission fluid. Mazda stealership owner knew I was on boards and gave reviews of dealership online, so he took care of me. Posted more reviews that they actually treated me right.

Anyway, yeah, I worry about warranty/mods, but it's not my first rodeo. Knowing what a difference some light to medium mods make, it's worth the risk to me, though I know I could my hat anytime with that claim.
 
The Fed

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Abilor said:
Eh, it comes with the territory. I rationalize it as I bought the car specifically knowing I'd start modding, and if something fails, I would pay out of pocket for a better replacement anyway.

I used to work on my Mazdaspeed 3 all the time, and I did have my clutch go on me at ~8,000 miles. Put my mounts back to stock, took off TMIC and intake, and in it went. Replaced clutch under warranty, even after they found my upgraded transmission fluid. Mazda stealership owner knew I was on boards and gave reviews of dealership online, so he took care of me. Posted more reviews that they actually treated me right.

Anyway, yeah, I worry about warranty/mods, but it's not my first rodeo. Knowing what a difference some light to medium mods make, it's worth the risk to me, though I know I could my hat anytime with that claim.
Click to expand...

On top of any other mods, its over $15K for an APR long block and turbo, plus installation. You would be the first not to complain you could have bought a Hellcat instead of modding and blowing the motor.
 
T

Tigsel

Ready to race!
Location
The other side
The Fed said:
And the warranty ends...
Click to expand...

None of his current mods will end his warranty, not until he get into something more serious like engine tuning, big turbo, downpipe, etc..
 
Abilor

Abilor

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Albany, NY
Whoa whoa whoa, everyone calm down. If these mods were fireworks, we're talking sparklers and smoke bombs, not mortars and Roman candles. All Stage 1 prep mods.

Lol, but yes, I do want to go full Stage 2 eventually. DP, twin-disk Clutch, intercooler, intake, CBE, and tune with Cobb AP are all in the future. I had my Mazdaspeed 3 similarly tricked. Shit, I was spraying Methanol on my Mazda, lol. My warranty will be fucked by 25,000 miles. I'd go with a crate engine if I popped the block. But let's hope it doesn't come to all that.


My old tuning guide...
 
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