Just testing out the intake blocker plate

Why not just cut vents in the hood? Hot air rises so with the vents in the hood, it has a place to escape from the engine bay.

Why do that if you can do this much cheaper: If you want to lower under hood temps, you could take the rear seal(in front of the cowl) for the hood off and replace with some door jam windlace like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tip-10001444/overview/ I'm not sure about the size of the gap, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That would open up the back and let the hot air exit.

JerseyDrew77 said:

Why not just cut vents in the hood? Hot air rises so with the vents in the hood, it has a place to escape from the engine bay.

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^^^ Cuz man, don't ya know? Hood vents are da shitz!

Not really but thought I just put it out there.

JerseyDrew77 said:

Why not just cut vents in the hood? Hot air rises so with the vents in the hood, it has a place to escape from the engine bay.

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Or just run without a hood?? Engine temps will be so cold you might blow the welds on the intake.

Clem604 said:

Or just run without a hood?? Engine temps will be so cold you might blow the welds on the intake.

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/thread

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Isn't the outside air getting into the engine bay as long as you're moving?

My parents place is basically a 30 mile highway drive from me. I often drive there pretty late in the evening when there's no traffic. Their house pretty close to the freeway and I pop my hood when I get into the garage. When I touch the intake...it feels pretty cool...no heat. Same with the engine cover. I would think that as long as the car is moving...outside air is getting in and pushed out of the engine bay.

AZ GTI said:

So how is the testing going?

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Need to get a good chunk of time one day so i can compare with same temperature / humidity etc and same driving conditions. I will log oil temps, intake temps, ambient temps, maybe coolant temps who knows and put the pulls all in virtual dyno for shits and giggles.

Basically the idea behind this is to leave the air flow going into the engine, while limiting the potential for hot air to go into the intake.

I know everyone has their own theories of what is best, but i will post logs when i'm done whether it makes a change for the better, worse, or no change at all.

thanks all.

It is important that both sides of the grill remain open if modification to the right side is done. The opening on the left is crucial to oil and crank cooling.. However opening the right does provide a path of least resistance to the filter as you have done (as well as vw on newer models). But I would leave the left open for cooling purposes..

I've tested and logged a set up that originally blocked the left with foam on an oem set up with a cut and scooped right side grill and although intake temps did not drop that much, average oil peak operating temps were 2 degrees higher, which is huge actually. So there's no real benefit to blocking the oem design on the left. Ymmv

Twist said:

It is important that both sides of the grill remain open if modification to the right side is done. The opening on the left is crucial to oil and crank cooling.. However opening the right does provide a path of least resistance to the filter as you have done (as well as vw on newer models). But I would leave the left open for cooling purposes..

I've tested and logged a set up that originally blocked the left with foam on an oem set up with a cut and scooped right side grill and although intake temps did not drop that much, average oil peak operating temps were 2 degrees higher, which is huge actually. So there's no real benefit to blocking the oem design on the left. Ymmv

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I agree, thats why my block plate leaves the pass through open on the passenger side while utilizing just the driver side ram air intake.

Twist said:

although intake temps did not drop that much

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I am curious as to how much the IAT dropped with this plate installed. I assume "did not drop that much" means it decreased compared to stock?

m3lonbr3ad said:

So, while not moving, there aren't any mechanisms by which the GTE engine bay gets airflow that the GTI engine bay may not? Nor is there any reason why the GTE would have lower under-hood or firewall temperatures at a stop? I am not sure what supplementation the electrical drive system makes for the GTE at a stop.

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The GTE has the 1.4 lt & the rest of the engine bay is stuffed solid with hybrid electrics which product a lot of heat....& there is NO additional means of cooling the engine bay....ie no air fans...

AZ GTI said:

I believe Golfdave also found that the hot climate cars had the back of the duct sealed off. I hope he can confirm that. But GTE or petrol that would mean they want to keep it sealed.

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Hot no (hot is Saudi, UAE etc..)...this is what they PR code the plate for:-

0Y1 = Standard climatic zones.
0Y2 = Tropical zones.
0Y4 = Cold & tropical climatic zones (US).
0Y5 = Cold & tropical climatic zones (China).
0Y7 = Tropical zones & high-water country. (eg very wet..high rainfall)

GoatPowder said:

Stop blocking air flow that'll cool your oil.

The GTE isn't using the gasser engine nearly as much as any person on this forum.

A modern direct injected engine will have no benefit by design from a higher iat (it's not a diesel that'll run rich until it's up to temp) that opening exists for cooling on our "performance vehicles"..

Lacking an effieceint oil/water cooler (please aftermarket manufacturers make this) we are left to air cooler "efficency", which frankly is shit..

Blocking the intake from pulling hot air (at least in climates that don't see double digit negatives, but that's another argument entirely) is the right way to improve cold air intake.

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GTE is marketed & sold as a fast car...using the combined power of the petrol & hybrid systems....just it weights a ton!

Quotes from my guide:-

The GTE uses the EA211 1.4ltTSI COD 150PS engine which is basically the same as mine. It is moved more to the left of the engine bay to make room for the hybrid motor & electric’s on the right hand side of the engine. The GTE also has a full length engine undertray which has numerous vent slats in it. The fact that they also blank of the cold air route into the top of the engine bay is interesting. This engine bay gets very hot due to the lack of free space, the engine & the electrics, & there is very little in the way of direct outside air into the engine bay. Also as this is duct is coded for “tropical” & “high water” climate zones, it will cope with high temperatures & high road spray conditions.

Engineering wise & logically it makes perfect sense as the two row of holes at different levels make a water baffle to allow more air in without letting more water in, & any that does get in is forced to the bottom & then into the internal drain pipe. Other engines which have a different main air filter housing are different from Item number 13, which is the connection from the aid duct Item No.14 to your specific air filter housing.

Results:-
Cleaner engine bay for starters, by blocking off the left rear opening! Also having done various long drives over roads I know well I can report the following:-
The turbo spools up much sooner & quicker & is quieter! Mainly because it can suck in more air it is not “straining” to pull the air in, so the noise is less & no “rasp” when high in the rev range! The whole engine response is smoother, quicker, more linear, less “lag”. I love it & it could have been like this from the factory!

Conclusions:-
The fact that the “B” version is all that is now made, & fitted to everything from a 1lt to the 2lt “R”, proves that VAG consider the airflow “adequate” for all climatic conditions & power outputs. The rear left blanking plate can still be fitted to the “B” version to meet the PR codes for “tropical zones” & “high water countries”, however the front right blanking plate cannot easily retro-fitted to the “C” version. So if you have a crash & have the “C” setup from factory how does the dealer/body shop refit exactly when the part is no longer made & has been superseded by part (B) which has no holes on the front right side?

What is strange is that the VAG engineers in the first place decided to make the “C” version & the front right plate “A” to let more air in & to do so without letting more water in. So there is sound engineering behind doing this mod & letting more air in via the front right side. Just VAG bean counters got in the way again & obviously asked the engineers if the “B” part will do to for all cars to cut the cost of having to make the “C” version & the front plate “A”.

End quote...

Vw engineered these items & made them....then like some items it decides to not fit as a cost cutting exercise....much like the newer cars don't get the isofix covers, under hood insulation, no lock on the glove box, no lower front engine cover on 2lt gti/r engine,

Twist said:

It is important that both sides of the grill remain open if modification to the right side is done. The opening on the left is crucial to oil and crank cooling.. However opening the right does provide a path of least resistance to the filter as you have done (as well as vw on newer models). But I would leave the left open for cooling purposes..

I've tested and logged a set up that originally blocked the left with foam on an oem set up with a cut and scooped right side grill and although intake temps did not drop that much, average oil peak operating temps were 2 degrees higher, which is huge actually. So there's no real benefit to blocking the oem design on the left. Ymmv

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There is no opening on the left... If you're talking about the plastic plate on top of the grill

Any follow-up on this? Curious if there was any benefit.

I fashioned a funnel to the intake that would replicate blocking off the half of the funnel as pictured and it caused no change to my IAT and also slowed the cooling of the IATs down during cruising.

One idea speaking theoretically here, is to fabricate a wedge almost to divert air both over the oil cooler and to engine simultaneously.

The best way to test would be a computer simulation of a wind tunnel. Which is difficult of course but very accurate.