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Old 12-09-2017, 02:51 PM   #35
navindralr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigsel View Post
Probably best to leave that thing in there, see here: https://www.fte-automotive.com/en/pr...-canceler.html
I've driven cars without it though and not sure it makes much of a difference. Seems it's purpose is to remove vibration/noise? Not sure how much it would help if you're running an upgraded clutch. I guess the only thing left is to remove it and see how the car drives... it can always be reinstalled. Now we just need to figure out the correct ECS line.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:12 PM   #36
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ECS tuning SS clutch line

I had a lengthy chat with ECS support discussing this, he said the line is just their one and only SS line for the Mk7, you can plug it into the swirl valve, but itís also long enough to bypass the swirl valve.


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Old 12-13-2017, 12:12 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by navindralr View Post
I double checked the ECS instructions and they say to leave the dampener and hook up the line directly to it which is why I got confused when people said that ECS actually sells a longer line made specifically to remove this valve. Have you already purchased your kit? I can't really see any detrimental reason in removing it.. I'm also not an automotive engineer though. I feel like the clutch disengagement is slow from 1 to 2.. It almost feels like the hydraulic fluid is being depressurized slowly causing the clutch to disengage slower than I would like. I think that valve is the cause. Honestly it probably happens in all gears but i notice it most at lower speeds hence when first starting the car off in motion.
I have not purchased yet. Hoping to get it as an xmas gift

I don't see why it couldn't be removed, either, if you don't care about dampening vibrations. Seems like a similar principal to the bleeder delay removal that everyone does. My big gripe is also starting off in 1st which is my main reason for wanting to try deleting the swirl valve.

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Originally Posted by Quebster View Post
I had a lengthy chat with ECS support discussing this, he said the line is just their one and only SS line for the Mk7, you can plug it into the swirl valve, but itís also long enough to bypass the swirl valve.

This was my understanding. They only make one length line and it is long enough to bypass the swirl valve if you want to.

Did ECS support offer any opinions on whether one should do that or not (any downsides) and what the effect might be?
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:24 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by nicholam77 View Post

Did ECS support offer any opinions on whether one should do that or not (any downsides) and what the effect might be?
Yep:

"As far as we know the valve causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a lag and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after valve removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement."
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:30 AM   #39
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Excellent, thanks!
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Old 12-17-2017, 10:06 AM   #40
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For the record, we are almost done with the build and will be installing the ECS SS line along with bypassing the "swirl valve." However, this is at the same time as going from Southbend Stage 2 to Stage 3 clutch, and installing the ECS Bleeder valve as well, though I did have the delay valve mod done already.

I'm not sure my opinion/input on this mod (the swirl valve bypass) will be worth much since so much will be changed at once, but I'll let you know how everything feels with both the swirl valve bypassed and the ECS Bleeder block installed!
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Old 12-17-2017, 12:14 PM   #41
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So it's this one you're using to bypass? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...006719ecs01~a/
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:13 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by navindralr View Post
So it's this one you're using to bypass? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...006719ecs01~a/


Yes, they told me thatís the one


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Old 12-19-2017, 02:46 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Quebster View Post
For the record, we are almost done with the build and will be installing the ECS SS line along with bypassing the "swirl valve." However, this is at the same time as going from Southbend Stage 2 to Stage 3 clutch, and installing the ECS Bleeder valve as well, though I did have the delay valve mod done already.

I'm not sure my opinion/input on this mod (the swirl valve bypass) will be worth much since so much will be changed at once, but I'll let you know how everything feels with both the swirl valve bypassed and the ECS Bleeder block installed!
Even though you're changing the setup completely, it might be possible to tell if you are still getting delay/drag from the delay/vibration dampener. It feels kind of like a "dragging" through the line and you should be able to tell if it's the clutch or the actual valve... at least I can with an SRE clutch. I know that's a completely different clutch and flywheel setup but if you notice, let me know. I'm gonna do the line regardless, but not anytime soon. Maybe next month, but I would like to hear your findings.
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:42 PM   #44
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LOL

Where did y'all come up with "swirl valve" ??

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Old 12-23-2017, 01:28 AM   #45
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ECS tuning SS clutch line

It looks swirly!! Well, like the liquid inside is at least


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Old 12-28-2017, 03:04 PM   #46
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Installed the ECS clutch line and deleted that bullshit valve. I posted this pic in another thread but here it is again. Install was simple. Clutch engagement is much better. No hang ups. If anyone is doing the upgraded line and debating on installing it into the valve or removing the valve to bypass it, I would recommend to remove it.

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Old 01-04-2018, 12:56 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by navindralr View Post
Installed the ECS clutch line and deleted that bullshit valve. I posted this pic in another thread but here it is again. Install was simple. Clutch engagement is much better. No hang ups. If anyone is doing the upgraded line and debating on installing it into the valve or removing the valve to bypass it, I would recommend to remove it.
Thanks for the feedback! Now I am excited to install mine.
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:28 AM   #48
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Thanks for the feedback! Now I am excited to install mine.
two metal clips on each end of stock line to remove it AND don't forget there is a black plastic clip holding the line to the frame... reached easiest from the bottom of the car. Kind of a pain to get out but can be done with hand tools.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:04 AM   #49
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So just installed the line today and with the info on this thread. Removed the "Oscillation damper" Link to the part https://www.fte-automotive.com/en/pr...-canceler.html
In short, it makes your pedal feel like mush. IT'S-A MUST REMOVE PART!!! for aftermarket clutch kits.
I have a DKM Stage 3 MS-twin disc clutch and before the line install, I have the valve removed in the bleeder bock and the spring removed from the pedal. I was still getting really bad clutch chatter from a stop. After this mod, the pedal feels the same from the top of travel to the floor. I am able to slip the clutch like a normal clutch, I have ALOT more feedback on what the pressure plate is doing. The chatter is very minimal if any at all.
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:38 AM   #50
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Agreed with above. 100% worthwhile mod to delete both delay valves. Clutch actually feels like a clutch now... ďThe pedal feels the same from the top of travel to the floorĒ is the best way to put it.



Ef that thing!



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Old 01-09-2018, 05:32 PM   #51
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Where did y'all come up with "swirl valve" ??

VW service manuals calls it a round component, the parts manufacturer calls it a oscillation damper, swirl valve I guess its just the common name.
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