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Rear SwayBar Endlink Advice. Got some noise

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
Couple of thoughts here:

1) Upgraded RSBs just typically make more noise than stock. The bushings in the mounts are typically harder then OE and a lot of sound gets transferred to the cabin (more of solid "thunk" than a metallic "clunk" like you are describing though).

2) Go borrow a torque wrench from an auto parts store, put it back up on the ramps, loosen everything a bit, and then torque it all to spec. When I installed mine I tightened everything up "hand tight". It was fine for 1-2 days but came loose and started clunking. I torqued it all correctly and no more clunk. Finding the specs was difficult, everyone seems to have diff numbers and I don't have a FSM. What I ended up using was this: endlinks to the bar 35nm; mounts to chassis 28Nm; endlinks to control arm (couldn't find a torque).

3) The Moog are a significant upgrade over OE for the money. They are cast opposed to machined, but are metal nonetheless. Plus the zerk fitting is a bonus.



Thanks for the response. Do you think the moog are better than the superpros. I really like them. Lastnight it was raining hard so it was hard to work tbh. Up on the ramps it was all tight so i said ok for today. Im thinking today I should get the endlinks on a 1 day. Im still not 100% on how someone torqes to oem endlinks to bar since there is a triple square in the middle. Bar to chassis i can do since its triple square only.


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sprinks

Drag Racing Champion
Location
United States
If you're stock or near stock ride height geometry, i'd give the moog endlinks a shot. greasable zirc fittings, rubber instead of polyurethane, and remarkably cheap price-wise make them a very dailable option. The superpros from what i've seen induce preload on the sway bar. Whether that's a plus or minus is completely dependent on your suspension setup.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
If you're stock or near stock ride height geometry, i'd give the moog endlinks a shot. greasable zirc fittings, rubber instead of polyurethane, and remarkably cheap price-wise make them a very dailable option. The superpros from what i've seen induce preload on the sway bar. Whether that's a plus or minus is completely dependent on your suspension setup.



Ya I’m completely stock height. I do plan to lower maybe in the summer. My coworked asked me if i clipped on the way in. I was like nah that pop was my sway bar lol for 40$ the moog aint bad. But the superpro had a metal like portion of the endlink that may help with noise. Part of me thinks the endlink rubber portion is rubbing at the 13mm bolt spot since it was like so hard to get that bolt back in.


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sprinks

Drag Racing Champion
Location
United States
Even with lowering the moog's would work out for ya. I believe i've seen a few on the mk7 fb page who are way low that have gone with the moogs. I would double check the install, make sure everything is torqued proper (swaybar mounts and endlinks basically), and then make a move from there.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
Even with lowering the moog's would work out for ya. I believe i've seen a few on the mk7 fb page who are way low that have gone with the moogs. I would double check the install, make sure everything is torqued proper (swaybar mounts and endlinks basically), and then make a move from there.



Ok awesome. I just bought the moog online will pickup tomorrow at pepboys. They only cost 32. I think once i take off the crap oem endlinks and torque everything properly, it should all work out. Its most likely a torque issue. And or rubbing from oem endlinks


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Jarbear

Ready to race!
Location
SF Bay Area
1) Upgraded RSBs just typically make more noise than stock. The bushings in the mounts are typically harder then OE and a lot of sound gets transferred to the cabin.

Interesting. I've never though of it this way, but definitely makes sense considering the 034 bar has machined aluminum mounts and minimal bushing material.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
Interesting. I've never though of it this way, but definitely makes sense considering the 034 bar has machined aluminum mounts and minimal bushing material.



To expand on this, I bought new bushing, they are pretty hard polyurethane. The oem bushing is like rubber. But i never thought that most noise comes from this.


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reverend_sean

Go Kart Champion
Location
Pittsburgh
But i never thought that most noise comes from this.
I guess I just meant that you will likely still notice more sound coming from the new RSB once you get the banging sound that you are experiencing figured out. I also doubt that kind of a sound would come from just the harder rubber mounts, but they definitely transfer more noise into my cabin day to day. Totally worth it for a GTI that likes to turn-in though!
 

DonTuan

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chi-Town
Ok awesome. I just bought the moog online will pickup tomorrow at pepboys. They only cost 32. I think once i take off the crap oem endlinks and torque everything properly, it should all work out. Its most likely a torque issue. And or rubbing from oem endlinks


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Did you only buy 1 for $32 because they don't come as a set. Just wanted to make sure you don't make the same mistake I did thinking they were sold as a pair.
 

sprinks

Drag Racing Champion
Location
United States
Also good to note, the moog dont have a triple square in the bolt so i should be able to torque that. Not sure the spec for it tho lol


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torque should be same as OEM: 55 Nm at the swaybar-endlink connection. The bolt-nut that passes through the endlink is recommended to be replaced after removal and torqued to 20Nm +180 deg. And for good measure, the swaybar mounts are recommended to be torqued to 20Nm + 90deg with replacement after removal (and install evenly to prevent binding).
 

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
This might be a good idea to pull up on the ramps and tighten everything since there is load. I didn't do this at first (car was jacked/stands). im also not sure how someone can torqe the endlinks themselves install sheet said like 30ft lbs or something. I have no idea how to do this by hand lol my breaker bar is the only thing I have that has torqe options.
I don't think breaker bars have torque settings.
Get yourself a couple of good torque wrenches. I can send you links to the ones I bought after work tonight.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
Welp ordered another moog endlink as i thought it would be 2 to a package. Bar was making lots of noise on the way home (splendid) . Sounds like something is for sure broken


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mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
I don't think breaker bars have torque settings.
Get yourself a couple of good torque wrenches. I can send you links to the ones I bought after work tonight.



Its a torque wretch with rotating setting which I have. I did look up nice electric ones but they are like 200$


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