My previous car had fixed piston brakes and all aluminum suspension, and I felt like the the stamped steel suspension and floating calipers was a "downgrade"
There was however, a lot of other stuff that I considered upgrades, so it was a net positive, but still, aluminum suspension pieces would have been nice.
That's really good. I'd cherish that considering how salt and icemelt crap they spray on the roads around my area accelerates corrosion. Body panels are usually okay from rusting unless there's a chip or something, but undercarriage is a completely different story.
Bought mine a month ago, only complaints so far:
- no sunroof option in US
- no remote start
- 1-2 upshift under WOT bangs hard against rev limiter a couple times before finally shifting (dealer is reflashing TCU tomorrow, hopefully this is just a driver learn artifact)
Just picked up a week ago and still learning the ins and outs of the vehicle but...
- No sunroof option
- Figuring out the cohabitation of the volume controls on the Steering Wheel in concert with the volume knob on the Infotainment when using CarPlay/Waze for example
-I wish it came with the option for a sunroof, but also kinda glad it didn’t because I’ve heard problems with them.
-Also, wish it came with folding mirrors standard like EU versions. Had to purchase folding mirrors myself. Going to install soon.
-Wish it came with homelink mirror standard. Had to buy and install that myself.
-locking glove box would have been nice (have a mk7.5 R)
That’s all I can think of right now haha
First, I'd tell you that you should note that you can buy a Golf R in North America, unlike an S3 Avant.
Second, the suspension tuning is different: the S3 is a bit more compliant with slightly less feedback in "Dynamic" mode than the R when set to "Race." I know this because I test drove an S3 while waiting for the R to come to the US; European reviewers who tested the two back-to-back said much the same thing.
Third, there's the matter of styling: I was unimpressed with the S3's interior design. The Audi driver gets a basic 1990's style instrument nacelle in front of him/her with a Pop-up infotainment panel to its right, followed by a long overly-minimalist dashboard cushion stretching across the width of the car. I was far more impressed with the R's more driver-focused gauge cluster coupled with its infotainment, radio, climate controls in the contiguous panel rising from the center console. The same goes for the exterior. The S3 Avant looks nice, but its styling touches look far too busy--almost added on--compared to the Golf R's clean organic lines.
But then, some people are so drawn to interlocking circles that they'll happily pay a few thousand more to have them on their car; and of course that will mean that they won't be complaining that it's overpriced for a Golf. I guess that's the point you were trying to make.
Overall I think it's a very solid platform with good build quality. Most of my gripes center around the manual transmission:
- Weak clutch won't even hold stock power. Also, no great clutch upgrade choices.
- No launch control like some competitors
- Clutch Delay Valve. I know, this is common industry practice now.
- Dual Mass Flywheel.
- Notchy shifter from the factory. The dealer finally got mine sorted out by replacing a washer that was left out from the factory.
- Too big of a performance gap between the Manual and DSG. LC would fix address most of this.
Outside of that, my only other gripe the front biased handling. It's too bad that something along the lines of the e-diff from the GTI couldn't have been offered in the R.
^^ I run AP Stage1 High Boost and the factory clutch is holding up fine..
Removal of clutch delay valve is over rated imho. Unless you want the oneway bleeder from ECS, I'd keep it stock. I've been driving MT car for decades and the while the clutch is difficult to find the engagement point vs other cars at first, it's very progressive and I haven't found the need to replace the valve with the new one way bleeder sitting in my parts bin.
^^ I run AP Stage1 High Boost and the factory clutch is holding up fine..
Removal of clutch delay valve is over rated imho. Unless you want the oneway bleeder from ECS, I'd keep it stock. I've been driving MT car for decades and the while the clutch is difficult to find the engagement point vs other cars at first, it's very progressive and I haven't found the need to replace the valve with the new one way bleeder sitting in my parts bin.
I've had my 2019 6MT for about 2 months now. Really enjoying it. Came from a 16" GTI 6MT. Before that 15 Mustang GT, 12 Mustang GT500, 370Z, Mini Cooper JCW. (All manual cars)
I added the Boomba short shifter adapter and BMS clutch stop which has improved the shifting quite a bit. The only thing that bothers my about the clutch is that it pops back up or releases very quickly, you have to really be smooth when it's coming back up. Otherwise it's very jerky. I know that some people have the assist spring on their cars, and then they remove it. Mine didn't come with it. I almost think that if I put one in it would improve the feel. Wouldn't this allow it to return slightly slower, because the spring is holding it back ??
I think I will see if I can get one from the dealer. Any suggestions ?
The number one thing that I don't like about the Golf R is the switch at the bottom of the accelerator pedal. When going WOT it feels like something is being crunched underneath the carpet. It's like I'm stomping on a guitar box, feels very unnatural. If anyone know of anyway to replace the pedal or remove the switch without causing any issues, I would really appreciate it.
I too have the Boomba short shifter adapter and made my own clutch pedal stop. On my 17 the car drives smoother off the line with the Cobb AP ots tune. That and I seem to be able to blip the RPM a lot higher while braking (heel and toe) where as the factory tune prevented me from reving too high while braking.
I don't know.. about that switch it hasn't bothered me. I may not drive my Golf-R as hard as you, even when I WOT I don't usually push that button in.
However, when I'm in Normal or Comfort mode, I've read it allows full power like in Race mode, so when I'm in those modes I intentionally push to click it when I need full power.
^^ I run AP Stage1 High Boost and the factory clutch is holding up fine..
Removal of clutch delay valve is over rated imho. Unless you want the oneway bleeder from ECS, I'd keep it stock. I've been driving MT car for decades and the while the clutch is difficult to find the engagement point vs other cars at first, it's very progressive and I haven't found the need to replace the valve with the new one way bleeder sitting in my parts bin.
The clutch delay valve really only becomes an issue when you are shifting faster than the valve will allow. If the shifts are fast enough the pedal will delay and actually pop up to your foot instead of staying. It was definently not an option for myself at the track and can put wear on the disc when you are full throttle and the clutch pedal is still on its way back up
