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Old 11-13-2018, 07:22 PM   #69
Mk7GTl
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The BFI transmission mount if by far the best since it utilizes the oem housing. I ran the full ECS engine and trans mount and my God the NVH was like a 93 civic swapped with a h22 engine equipped with innovative mounts. I kept the ECS engine mount and swapped the trans with the BFI stage 1 and NVH was cut down by 30% and more tolerable for everyday driving so i do believe the trans mount is the one that causes the most NVH.
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:48 PM   #70
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I've been holding on for the longest from upgrading my mounts because I dislike too much NVH. Was going to to with the 034/CTS style mounts but have seen those fail so will try just trans BFI stage 1 mount and hope that fixes most of my wheel hop issues without having to swap out the engine mount.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:42 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PacDawg View Post
I've been holding on for the longest from upgrading my mounts because I dislike too much NVH. Was going to to with the 034/CTS style mounts but have seen those fail so will try just trans BFI stage 1 mount and hope that fixes most of my wheel hop issues without having to swap out the engine mount.
Just my two cents PAC: don't change one of the three without doing the others. I did and it rekt my oem mounts even worse.

I think at the end of the day the little nuances with alignment , material used and design actually play a bigger role than people think. The oem design is the best for dd as it has a 360 degree rotational flex point. Where as my bfi stage one does not allow for as much smaller movement (I e noise).

You could just throw the insert into the trans and call it a day though. You just may wear your motor oem mount much quicker.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:54 PM   #72
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I agree with Twist. Think of all three mounts as a triangle. If you make one corner strong, it will make the other two corners that much weaker. I have BFI stage 1 eng/trans mounts and APR dogbone insert. I have zero vibrations, even with the AC on. I have additional engine noise, but I love it.
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Old 11-14-2018, 03:40 AM   #73
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I have the Superpro engine and transmission mounts (installed by a VW tech) and NVH is definitely increased on idle. Seems to be breaking in a little now after a few hundred miles, but still definitely noticeable from stock. At first it was like a tractor. I didn't do the dogbone yet, but that's going to be HPA.

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Old 11-14-2018, 06:01 AM   #74
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I have the Superpro engine and transmission mounts (installed by a VW tech) and NVH is definitely increased on idle. Seems to be breaking in a little now after a few hundred miles, but still definitely noticeable from stock. At first it was like a tractor. I didn't do the dogbone yet, but that's going to be HPA.

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Strange. I did just the engine and trans superpro mounts for about a month and my experience was little to no difference in nvh from oem. Then I installed the superpro torque arm bushing and again there was hardly any difference. I cannot say there is a definite increase in NVH, hardly perceivable. I'd need to sit a stock Mk7 to honestly determine if there was any increase.
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Old 11-14-2018, 02:05 PM   #75
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Strange. I did just the engine and trans superpro mounts for about a month and my experience was little to no difference in nvh from oem. Then I installed the superpro torque arm bushing and again there was hardly any difference. I cannot say there is a definite increase in NVH, hardly perceivable. I'd need to sit a stock Mk7 to honestly determine if there was any increase.
Hmm... Interesting.may have to look into it and anything is wrong

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Old 11-14-2018, 08:09 PM   #76
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My NVH increased the slightest bit at idle from the mount combo (in my sig). I did them all at once and was half expecting to end up with some kind of tractor based on everything I'd read.

Nope. Throw in the vcds idle increase and It's close to zero nvh difference. Huge huge difference in performance though.

I know people shit on ECS here but I'm totally happy with their mounts.
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:16 PM   #77
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Call me crazy. I think the reason some get nvh on certain mount products is INSTALL. It is much more complex than just "throwing it on" imho. There are very subtle alignment nuances
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Old 11-14-2018, 11:22 PM   #78
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Call me crazy. I think the reason some get nvh on certain mount products is INSTALL. It is much more complex than just "throwing it on" imho. There are very subtle alignment nuances
Agree.

I spent about 20 minutes with a couple of pry bars getting everything perfect for my trans mount
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Old 11-15-2018, 12:03 AM   #79
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Call me crazy. I think the reason some get nvh on certain mount products is INSTALL. It is much more complex than just "throwing it on" imho. There are very subtle alignment nuances
Yeah I made sure when I jacked the engine or tranny side that when I loosened the bolts the engine stayed in the exact position. This required multiple adjustments of the jack while releasing the bolts. This allowed me to swap the mounts once the old one was out in the exact same position. I have done the job twice now and both times it's good to go.
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:21 PM   #80
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So, is there an install guide for this stuff? Or did any of you reference a DIY on vortex or something like that? I'm probably going to completely redo my entire mount suite (currently have 034 mounts + apr insert/pendulum, probably going BFI mounts + HPA puck/pendulum) in the next couple months, and i'd love to make sure that it's installed correctly
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:42 PM   #81
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So, is there an install guide for this stuff? Or did any of you reference a DIY on vortex or something like that? I'm probably going to completely redo my entire mount suite (currently have 034 mounts + apr insert/pendulum, probably going BFI mounts + HPA puck/pendulum) in the next couple months, and i'd love to make sure that it's installed correctly
I think Twist's post above on the tranny mount is one of the most informative posts on this subject.


Also, ECS has a youtube video and instructions
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:58 PM   #82
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When I first installed these. I didn't realize I put in the trans mount super askew. I think doing these right are a little more complicated than people realize. There are a lot of alignment nuances that I think most diyers miss when trying to do these at home.

That being said when I went to do it again the right way, I realized vw put a semi alignment circle I to the unused circle on the amount. This circle should sit in the exact middle of the mount. Mine was preloaded off to one side and caused some issues over time. Also, the engine mount block should be exactly 10mm from the frame with the mount perfectly parallel.
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Yes. There is a lot of play in the design. It doesn't matter if they thread in clean, mine did and it was horribly off kilter and I could only tell when looking up at it with belly pan off. If you're down there you can look up and see if it's aligned with the frame.
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Basically, imagine taking the trans mount when it's off the car and stretching it all the way to one side. That's how mine was after some miles. Pre loaded towards the firewall which caused some weird noises and a thudding sound when I free revved. VW built in an alignment circle (which no one online has mentioned). They're smart to do that. Basically the mount should be in the middle of itself, not stretched or askew, and then the trans should be aligned with that circle exactly in the middle both left to right and up to down.

I'd be willing to bet they even have a tool that is like a rod that sirs down in that hole and shows the precise alignment as it sticks out.
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I think Twist's post above on the tranny mount is one of the most informative posts on this subject.


Also, ECS has a youtube video and instructions
this stuff? also thanks didn't know about that. will certainly make sure the place i bring it to sees that before installing.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:08 PM   #83
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this stuff? also thanks didn't know about that. will certainly make sure the place i bring it to sees that before installing.
the post with the pic of the hole in the center for sure. as a pic is worth a thousand words.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:37 PM   #84
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this stuff? also thanks didn't know about that. will certainly make sure the place i bring it to sees that before installing.

The concept of install is simple (DAP videos, ECS, etc show procedure). The best advice I could give is to crack both mounts loose and do the trans first. Take a massive crowbar like Hoon mentioned and don't fully torque until that alignment circle is exactly in the middle of the mount without it preloaded off to one side. You could take an un-sharpened pencil to exaggerate the circle alignment and put it through both or just look straight down like I did.



Once those suckers are tight then do the engine mount bracket bolts back in, again making sure everything is straight and even (and a 10-11mm distance from bracket to frame).



Order of install:


Engine mount swap RAIL/Body only

Trans Mount Full swap
Engine mount Bracket Bolts
If doing dogbone do it last as it is kind of like a final lock on both.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:57 PM   #85
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wow. Thank you so much! really appreciated, a lot. will get back when I get around to redoing my mounts.
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