GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Fluidamper users: happy with the mod?

Luvs2speed

Ready to race!
Location
US
Just hand mine installed this weekend so I thought I would give some feedback. There are some really noticeable improvements in smoothness. I have a DSG car and 034 Dogbone mount. Since the mount has been in the car has had a much more noticeable shudder when the brake is released and the clutch engages. It feels like its close to stalling but never does. That has been almost completely removed. Idle lumpiness is gone as well.

On full boost the car feels great and the one place I can really tell it working is about 5700-5800 rpm. When I take it above that point and out to 6500-6600 rpm all buzziness that was there is gone. It pulls strong and smooth in the upper RPM range.

I did a ton of pulls right before and after the install to really try and feel a back to back difference on the same day and conditions just 2 hours apart. I think the car is stronger from 3k and up. Holds power out longer up top as well. I was getting my tires (225 snows currently) to break traction in 3rd from a hit at 3k. Very responsive and sharp and I got no spin in the same conditions previously. I can believe at 10-15whp and tq increase as seen on multiple dynos. I feel the combination of this and the turbo inlet, DV+ and RS7 plugs have helped the car pull longer and stronger where it used to fall flat at 5500 RPM. IE intercooler is about to go on in the next month and then the car will be dyno'd. Hoping for some big number for FBO stock turbo.
 

liljonny16

Ready to race!
Location
MS, FL
I installed the Fluidampr this week and I can say that I am a believer. Been running the CTS dogbone insert and it did introduce a little NVH during start-up and right after a brake release. Nothing super terrible but you notice it. After installing the Fluidampr though, I would say it is completely gone. The engine buttery smooth at start-up. I get giddy every time I start it up now. I'm still in shock at just what a difference it made. Definitely recommend this upgrade.

Tried using the OEM tool but that is not possible on jack stands. The tool is like 3 ft long. I just put the stock damper in TDC, held it firmly with my hand and used an impact. Installed the Fluidampr the same way. Put it on, held it in place and used the impact. I do not recommend this method of course but it worked for me.
 

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
For this project, I elected to use a local independent shop that has a good reputation. There are several things that need to be aligned and must stay aligned during removal and installation of the FluidAmpr harmonic balancer (ie. crankshaft TDC). In addition, several components need removal, such as wheel, inner wheel lining, washer fluid reservoir, etc.

I believe I paid ~$170 for the install.

$170 seems pretty cheap
 

TRVotexed07

Ready to race!
Location
Methuen, MA
Car(s)
17GolfR
Did you install with the arp bolt or a new OEM stretch bolt?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
can anyone comment on ease or difficulty of the install? what goes into this? doing a fluid damper wasn't too hard on my cobalt but not sure what more goes into these on our space-age cars haha.

Tried using the OEM tool but that is not possible on jack stands. The tool is like 3 ft long. I just put the stock damper in TDC, held it firmly with my hand and used an impact. Installed the Fluidampr the same way. Put it on, held it in place and used the impact. I do not recommend this method of course but it worked for me.

I heard there is a tiny risk with screwing up the timing on this install, if that rear side of the gear looking pulley moves at all? Like there isnt a set key hole on this thing right? You just have to make sure all the notches line up in the back when installing. I did one of these on my 2015 WRX, but this install looks a tad harder.

I have a 2 ft long "Company 23" brand crank pulley holder thing i had for my subaru, but not sure if it would work on this install... prob the same thing.

and then you should use the Schwaben crank holder tool to make sure your timing pulley does not move, but you can't use it when putting the new pulley on apparently..

the ONLY good DIY video i have found.. (not mine..)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Um10zplLY
 
Last edited:
Top