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PP brakes!

E

echelonphoto

Ready to race!
Location
northeast
Bought my used 2015 se 2 door 2 months ago with 24k miles on it with dealer certification and warranty. Car is nice, but recently the brake pedal has gotten really mushy and is kind of low when it grabs...doesn't provide pinpoint control anymore? Just worn pads or something else? You would think the dealer would not sell me a certified car with the brakes on the way out so soon. I will bring it in for service, but I know brakes are a wear item, so I might just do them myself if replacement is needed...have done all the brake jobs on all my cars for years, including many corvettes. What is a good replacement pad and rotor for the pp brakes?
 
vj123

vj123

Autocross Newbie
Location
The Detroit
Car(s)
19 & 16 GTI - sold
Congrats on your GTI.

echelonphoto said:
You would think the dealer would not sell me a certified car with the brakes on the way out so soon.
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I would not trust the dealer just because its a CPO. For them, its just a check list and they might not have even checked everything properly. There has been several reports that CPO vehicles even had TD1 flag in VWs system.
 
The Fed

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Didn't see where it's a CPO car. Many dealers "certify" their cars, whatever that means. And I've personally seen where dealers of many brands CPO cars I thought didn't qualify.
 
Jedimk7

Jedimk7

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Cali Red Triangle
I would check out ecs has a kit, stoptech has a kit, I was thinking of trying out porterfield pads since I've heard good things about them[emoji41][emoji106]

Sent from my Gavin Belson black box signature edition
 
odessa.filez

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
when was the last time the brake fluid was changed?
 
Sparky589

Sparky589

Drag Racing Champion
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Check your fluid and pads. The PP brakes while good, are a bit overkill for street use. A quality pair of rotors and pads is all you really need unless you're looking into doing some track work.
 
johng.wissig

johng.wissig

Ready to race!
48k pads still good ,rotors have a rim, working great still. Will be getting new rotors soon. Not sure which yet.
.

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shortyb

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
Wouldn't say mushy pedal, but had been growing softer over time. Car is 3 years old so I flushed the brake fluid and cycled the ABS via VCDS. Pedal is back to being firm again and braking performance is as good as ever.

Bleed/flush the fluid and your pedal should return to normal.
 
Hoon

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
You don't need pads and rotors at 24k unless your car was a track rat.

Not sure why you're posting this as opposed to walking over to your car and looking at the pads and rotors.

If you have a pedal issue with 24k street miles, it's in the hyrdaulic system, not the pads/rotors.
 
THEREALVRT

THEREALVRT

Drag Racing Champion
Location
The great white north
Car(s)
Golf R
Hoon said:
You don't need pads and rotors at 24k unless your car was a track rat.

Not sure why you're posting this as opposed to walking over to your car and looking at the pads and rotors.

If you have a pedal issue with 24k street miles, it's in the hyrdaulic system, not the pads/rotors.
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you’d be surprised. i bought my 2016 with 7000km in october. at 20000km now and i swapped to PP brakes in the front. both 12.3 in front rotors on the inboard sides had massive ridges at the top and bottom of the rotor. almost identical on both rotors. they look like they have 70k on them not 20k.
 
E

echelonphoto

Ready to race!
Location
northeast
Hoon said:
You don't need pads and rotors at 24k unless your car was a track rat.

Not sure why you're posting this as opposed to walking over to your car and looking at the pads and rotors.

If you have a pedal issue with 24k street miles, it's in the hyrdaulic system, not the pads/rotors.
Click to expand...

Well I did look...and the rotors have quite a ridge on them...hard to actually see the pads wo taking off the wheels...but I will probably do so....the sponginess seems to be worse in hot weather we have had recently...as it cooled down the past few days, brakes feel better...so may be fluid. As I stated in my post...;have owned six corvettes in the last 10 years and have done many brake jobs on them....I do have a power bleeder...just thought it was unusual for a car to change this suddenly.
 
E

echelonphoto

Ready to race!
Location
northeast
Hoon said:
You don't need pads and rotors at 24k unless your car was a track rat.

Not sure why you're posting this as opposed to walking over to your car and looking at the pads and rotors.

If you have a pedal issue with 24k street miles, it's in the hyrdaulic system, not the pads/rotors.
Click to expand...


Pretty snarky post for a reasonable question for a vw noobie about what pads and rotors are available. I have done extensive mechanical work on many of my cars over the last 40 years...including complete drivetrain swaps and engine rebuilds. When you change margues, there is always a learning curve.
 
shortyb

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
echelonphoto said:
Well I did look...and the rotors have quite a ridge on them...hard to actually see the pads wo taking off the wheels...but I will probably do so....the sponginess seems to be worse in hot weather we have had recently...as it cooled down the past few days, brakes feel better...so may be fluid. As I stated in my post...;have owned six corvettes in the last 10 years and have done many brake jobs on them....I do have a power bleeder...just thought it was unusual for a car to change this suddenly.
Click to expand...

If this was a sudden change, I would look at the brakes hoses themselves. I know the car is low miles but I have seen two instances where the rubber hoses have developed a balloon in the rubber due to a failure in the polyester underbraid. The "balloon" or bubble causes the mushiness as it expands under pressure. Obviously, could be quite dangerous if this ruptures and causes catastrophic brake failure. If you see an signs of this, get the car back to the dealer pronto, preferably on a flatbed.
 
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