That would work fine for the rears provided your wrench was offset enough. At the end of the day my socket in vice grips worked fine too.
7
Koni Yellow settings
- Thread starter rubb3r
- Start date
That would work fine for the rears provided your wrench was offset enough. At the end of the day my socket in vice grips worked fine too.
Thanks for the clarification... I'm assuming an offset wrench then allen key on torque wrench should work fine. Kinda like whats pictured here...
If it fits yes, the Allen key is not doing anything but holding while you torque as mentioned above by Demi, there many ways that you can do this job most offset wrenches will not fit , depends on the car and hardware, you can actually try what they show in you pic before doing the job, easiest way to know what you need.
Let us know if you need more info/help
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snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
- Location
- Southeast Michigan
No...a big zip tie around the base of the upper shock mount holds it
snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
- Location
- Southeast Michigan
Just chiming in here for some guidance. I have ordered a set of Konis and the US Pro Kit (Konis on back order till mid June). I am in the process of doing my research and prepping for install so I appreciate this informative thread.
I have ordered new hardware and strut bearings but I was curious if new strut mounts were absolutely necessary? If so it sounds like OEM is the way to go?
Also how does the top nut install on the Konis? I gather it is different from the stock dampers as it likely doesn't use an allen key. The reason I ask is because I want to have all the tools needed for install (looking for an excuse to buy new tools
Thanks in advance!
How many miles are on your front mounts?
But yes, stick with the OEM mounts
Everyone else has covered the rear shocks.
The front struts....an 11mm socket & a 22mm offset wrench to tighten the top nut
OR the fancy 22mm socket mentioned earlier & a 11mm wrench to hold the strut rod
The top of the strut, for reference:
symbiotix
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Nice thanks everyone for the quick replies. I thing i will buy up a set of super deep offset wrenches (just cuz they would be good to have around), and I'll have one of the o2 sockets on standby just in case.
Front strut mounts have 24k miles on them. Probably should replace them eh? (I am definitely replacing bearings)
Thanks once again!
Front strut mounts have 24k miles on them. Probably should replace them eh? (I am definitely replacing bearings)
Thanks once again!
Just thinking, that white ring's function is probably to somewhat seal the bottom of the dust boot to keep dust from below off the shock piston.
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So I think I've settled on 1.0 turns front, .75 rear. It's crazy how much variance there is on rear adjustments. Going from 1.75 turns in the rear to .75 was a massive change. 1.75 wanted to shake your teeth out, 0 wanted to buck you out of your seat, and .75 feels like Goldilocks.
BTW the easiest way to adjust the rears is to place the shock rightside up on the ground, preferably on something that won't scratch it like cardboard or a foam mat. Put your hex key in the socket and lean into the shock to fully compress it, then rotate the body of the shock with your other hand while continuing to keep the hex key pressed to adjustment depth. If you're just using a simple skinny hex key like I was with no rubberized handle, it helps to have a leather glove on that hand as you are pressing on it pretty hard to keep it depressed.
BTW the easiest way to adjust the rears is to place the shock rightside up on the ground, preferably on something that won't scratch it like cardboard or a foam mat. Put your hex key in the socket and lean into the shock to fully compress it, then rotate the body of the shock with your other hand while continuing to keep the hex key pressed to adjustment depth. If you're just using a simple skinny hex key like I was with no rubberized handle, it helps to have a leather glove on that hand as you are pressing on it pretty hard to keep it depressed.
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odessa.filez
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Roswell, GA
- Car(s)
- 2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
if we're talking about the ring on the soft side of the bump stop, I think it helps maintain the soft end's shape from becoming deformed as it experiences the most compression.
there is something to be said for trimming the hard end instead of the soft as the hard end trimmed is essentially "replaced" with a harder material: the top of the mount. this approach allows the softer progressive portion to survive.
That's what I first suspected when I mentioned pancaking. I think it's semantics at the end of the day, I'd rather have an overall harder bump stop than a softer one if its shorter, but it's just preference.
tylerf0606
Ready to race!
- Location
- Waukesha, WI
Just got around to triming mine based on the picture. Fixed my noises and the ride quality improved big time.I should’ve give out a bit more info, the trimmed part on the pic is the bottom part and that was left out of the shock, the upper part stayed in. If in doubt you can check for noises by compressing the shock fully and simulate bouncing on it , my car is silent now, love it
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Great man glad that it worked , hard to believe that something so simple was making that annoying noise.
It’s a plus that it is documented now and able to help other with the same issue.
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odessa.filez
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Roswell, GA
- Car(s)
- 2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
absolutely can!
veedubbin
intentionally left blank
- Location
- Cincinnati
- Car(s)
- VW's
Did the Konis come with shock/strut top nuts?