ECS Adjustable end links review

Just installed my new 034 RSB with the adjustable ECS links yesterday and test drove it today. I have some mild clunking that wasn't there before I made the switch, but nothing horrible. Everything was installed slightly more than finger tight with the suspension unloaded, then tightened with the suspension loaded. Not sure if it's a RSB issue, but the lower end of the link on the passenger side of the car didn't want to line up with the bolt hole in the lower control arm until I loaded the opposite side suspension. It looks like there's a fair amount of pre-load on one side of the bar, but I won't be able to confirm until I can get a hold of a pair of race scales. I installed the links at 4 full turns out from the shortest length.

Unless you want to spend LOTS of time re-tightening the "self-locking" nut onto the threaded stud that connects to the sway bar end, don't buy this product. After 5600 mostly highway miles & 3 autocrosses, with the nuts being re-tightened between the first & second autocross, both nuts were loose again. The one on the right side was so loose that the threads on the studs are visibly worn, and the flat washer behind the nut was so deeply dished that I had to pry it off.
Moog endlinks replaced the ECS ones. With blue Locktite on the threaded studs.
Anybody want some lightly-used, low mileage ECS RSB adjustable endlinks?

I'm looking to get a set of front and rear endlinks for my R. I originally was going to go with super pro, however a friend of mine had a pretty bad failure on both the front and rear of the ball joints. They all had a LOT of play in those joints. Not the first time I've heard of this type of failure with those.

I'd really like to get something similar to OEM (NOT spherical) since I have to deal with salt and snow in the winter. But obviously better built then the OEM parts.

ATR said:

I'm looking to get a set of front and rear endlinks for my R. I originally was going to go with super pro, however a friend of mine had a pretty bad failure on both the front and rear of the ball joints. They all had a LOT of play in those joints. Not the first time I've heard of this type of failure with those.

I'd really like to get something similar to OEM (NOT spherical) since I have to deal with salt and snow in the winter. But obviously better built then the OEM parts.

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try the new neuspeed ones

THEREALVRT said:

try the new neuspeed ones

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Front ones look like a good fit for my needs, but the rear Neuspeed endlinks are spherical.

Late add but the only way I can get the bolts to stay on are with blue loctite. I have to say I don't know how any of you got the bolts tightened without an impact wrench, the bolts just rotate. My 2 cents are that the rear feels really flat on turns and I noticed a significant difference, front was noticible but not as much as the rear.

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WoNayT said:

Late add but the only way I can get the bolts to stay on are with blue loctite. I have to say I don't know how any of you got the bolts tightened without an impact wrench, the bolts just rotate. My 2 cents are that the rear feels really flat on turns and I noticed a significant difference, front was noticible but not as much as the rear.

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The rear end link bolts need either a triple square or Allen wrench inserted before you turn the nut so the bolt won’t spin. I just installed my H&R rear swaybar today and luckily found an Allen wrench of the correct size. Now I’ll be asking for a triple square bit kit for Christmas

You'll need a triple-square to remove the OEM plastic end links. The ECS Adjustable links required an ultra-thin open-end wrench to hold the threaded stud. The supplied self-locking nut wouldn't stay tight even with blue Locktite. Next up is a conventional nut plus a jamb nut, both sourced from Fastenal. I'll do that when I install the Koni shocks in the spring.

I don't recall what I used to tighten the nut on the Moog endlinks that have, for now, replaced the ECS ones, but they have stayed tight with no more clunking.


Forget about using anything that requires a socket to tighten this nut- there isn't enough room. You "might" be able to get a crows-foot wrench in there, but I doubt it. And I wouldn't trust any torque reading this might give you. You're going to have to tighten it by hand with open &/or closed-end box wrenches.