IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)

I have both. That's not what I'm asking. I'm basically trying to see what numerical values people are getting for the is20 adaptation since it is different than the is38.

navindralr said:

I have both. That's not what I'm asking. I'm basically trying to see what numerical values people are getting for the is20 adaptation since it is different than the is38.

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It changes depending on device that's why it's important

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jaymkvii said:

It changes depending on device that's why it's important

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Ohhh I see what you're saying. Did not know that. In that case, I will be using VCDS. I gave up on the OBD11 a long time ago lol. What's the value for VCDS? I've heard 2.66

navindralr said:

Ohhh I see what you're saying. Did not know that. In that case, I will be using VCDS. I gave up on the OBD11 a long time ago lol. What's the value for VCDS? I've heard 2.66

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ok, so running first adaptation I can hear it run and it shows 3.667V in that box and then stops and the readout shows this voltage and says it's successful???<br />
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image by Diggs24, on Flickr<br />
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So, it clamps down at 3.667V and that 2.114 is it's resting position?<br />
<br />
DUMB QUESTION. Does my car need to be running?

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yeah I've heard it has to be in the 2 range. Like 2.66, but looks like 2.1 is still acceptable. I've read that the is20 gate actually sits slightly open in the rest position, so it's not supposed to be at 3.6 unless it's clamped down. If that makes any sense. My terminology is probably wrong lol.

2.11 is the resting position at which mine passed. Unfortunately you can't adjust it live, you have to close vcds and turn off car. turn on car, fire up vcds, and recheck voltage

To all my crazy friends out there that should have just bought a GTI:

I finally did the IS20 upgrade... Here's some not-so-wise words of wisdom in case anyone else is thinking of doing it themselves-

1. It took me about 2 full days, if your a beginner give yourself at least 2 full days of work and 2 six packs of beer at a MINIMUM. You'll need some courage to do this whole thing.

2. Just buy a By-pass Hose (06K-121-051-M) that connects to the vent valve. Mine was literally fused to the metal (probably melted together from engine heat) and I had to rip the end of the hose to remove it from the metal pipe. I managed to use Gorilla rubber sealing tape on the end and with a hose clamp with the old hose until my new one comes in. So far no leaks!

3. Get the "stubbiest" 8mm Triple square you can find.. mine is about 1.5" long and it was very tough getting some of the tight access bolts. Also a set of stubby T25 and T30, and 5 & 6 mm allen will make your life much easier.

4. Seriously... bag and label everything, it'll save so much time on the install.

5. The coolant line in the rear is incredibly frustrating to remove. Also be prepared for A LOT of coolant to come out even after to think you've drained it all.

6. Unbolt, but leave the lower oil return line to the engine block that you have to remove until the very end. Mine was mega stuck. Undo the turbo stud nuts and wiggle the turbo to free up and rotate that oil line. I was able to just wiggle the turbo and pull that line out quite easily once everything was free.

7. Just remove all your coil packs before removing the turbo, it'll give you that extra clearance you desperately need.

8. You will definitely need another able body to pull out the old turbo. I tried by myself and I'm definitely "Feelin' it now Mr. Krabs"

9. Double, triple, and quadruple check everything before you start reinstalling the new turbo. You don't want to be like me and reinstall something out of order and then have to redo something when your rushing to finish.

10. Keep your coolant and water in your trunk on your first few drives. I had to top off my coolant levels almost 10 times, and even after driving for 30 miles.

Congrats!

My TMD fit ok?

Diggs24 said:

Congrats!

My TMD fit ok?

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Thanks Diggs!

Yep! I think you sent me an extra O-ring that didn't quite fit the groove on the turbo intercooler inlet. But it was no big deal because the tomiako TMD has another O-ring on it and i think 2 O-rings is way overkill for just an intercooler air inlet.

New member

Greetings to everyone here. I am a new member to this forum but not a stranger to the VW Golf. First, I would like to thank MeltedSolid (and any/all others) for pioneering this platform with the IS20 upgrade. I've had a used IS20 sitting in my closet for almost two years now and feel that it's time to install it. This turbo was originally sent out to GPOP shop for inspection and re-balancing. My vehicle is a 2016 Golf (Base) which has been APR Stage 2 for quite a while now. Going the APR software upgrade route would have been cheaper but I'm tired of driving to a shop every time I need a reflash hence why I pulled the trigger on a JB4. I've followed the other popular threads concerning the JB4 and figured it would be a worthwhile investment. I plan on doing the work myself within the next few weeks and will report back when everything is said and done. Thank you folks for your contributions; I will be using this thread as a reference during and after the install!

gtsetsa1 said:

Greetings to everyone here. I am a new member to this forum but not a stranger to the VW Golf. First, I would like to thank MeltedSolid (and any/all others) for pioneering this platform with the IS20 upgrade. I've had a used IS20 sitting in my closet for almost two years now and feel that it's time to install it. This turbo was originally sent out to GPOP shop for inspection and re-balancing. My vehicle is a 2016 Golf (Base) which has been APR Stage 2 for quite a while now. Going the APR software upgrade route would have been cheaper but I'm tired of driving to a shop every time I need a reflash hence why I pulled the trigger on a JB4. I've followed the other popular threads concerning the JB4 and figured it would be a worthwhile investment. I plan on doing the work myself within the next few weeks and will report back when everything is said and done. Thank you folks for your contributions; I will be using this thread as a reference during and after the install!

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Are you on the Facebook group? I'm in NJ and you sound familiar. LOL

IS20 + JB4 install complete. Going to do some data logging later on today and work with Mr. Smooth to get this sucker tuned properly.



Thanks.

Hey guys I just completed is20 swap on the 1.8t but I am having a difficult time adjusting the waste gate. The plan was to set the waste gate to 3.6 v with obd11 (acknowledgement of pressure actuator on the live data column) but I cannot get the waste gate over 3.2(ish) v. Both with a waste gate actuator off an is20 and a waste gate actuator off an is12 (should be the same anyways). Neither one would hit the correct voltage I would run out of thread. I also tried setting the nut to 9 threads remaining on the actuator side. None of this would work the voltage reading is too low. I've ran the adaptation on 3.2v once to see if it would help using obd11 (first adaptation of charge pressure actuator) but It had no success. Does anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong or any better way of setting the wastegate. It's possible that the is20 wastegate was garbage but the is12 was taken off the turbo I swapped and was in perfect working order. I do have another wastegate to try but I'm gunna wait to see what you guys think. I had a pretty knowledgeable friend helping who had preformed a few mk7 turbo swaps before and had never run into this kind of waste gate trouble. It's making 3psi max and EPC is on instantly every time. The recurring fault code is P00AF00.

Thanks so much[emoji120]

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gtsetsa1 said:

Greetings to everyone here. I am a new member to this forum but not a stranger to the VW Golf. First, I would like to thank MeltedSolid (and any/all others) for pioneering this platform with the IS20 upgrade. I've had a used IS20 sitting in my closet for almost two years now and feel that it's time to install it. This turbo was originally sent out to GPOP shop for inspection and re-balancing. My vehicle is a 2016 Golf (Base) which has been APR Stage 2 for quite a while now. Going the APR software upgrade route would have been cheaper but I'm tired of driving to a shop every time I need a reflash hence why I pulled the trigger on a JB4. I've followed the other popular threads concerning the JB4 and figured it would be a worthwhile investment. I plan on doing the work myself within the next few weeks and will report back when everything is said and done. Thank you folks for your contributions; I will be using this thread as a reference during and after the install!

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Once you get settled with the JB4 you might want to consider a tune if you've got the cash. The extra throttle response and earlier spool are very nice. Then if you want you can stack with the JB4 to take advantage of ethanol, intercooler, meth injection. The JB4 logging is also good.

Anything unique to the R/S3 (vs. awd golf) once I have dp removed?

Is there anything unique to the r/s3 engine which reduces clearance and makes pulling it from the top more challenging? I've heard I may need to tilt engine or lower subframe?

Thx and appreciate all the info in the thread.