Good to know, thanks! I've done some research on the 034 Dynamic+ Lowering Springs but still waiting for more people to share their experience with them.
7
New member with 2017 GTI and MSS spring kit
- Thread starter bcelliott
- Start date
Good to know, thanks! I've done some research on the 034 Dynamic+ Lowering Springs but still waiting for more people to share their experience with them.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
I'm another victim of the clunk with MSS springs. I found my springs shaking with about a 3cm tolerance when the car is jacked. It's also not good for the bearing because the car can come back down at an angle where it's not seated properly. I rotate my wheels around for track and street about 15-20 times per year, so this is no bueno. I bought my springs in June I think, and I still received the old stock.
I'm contacting the distributor and MSS to resolve the issue, and I'll be asking them to cover installation, alignment, corner balance, and one time use hardware, considering I already paid for it all once.
If we can't come to a peaceful resolution, I'm going to try out the 034 springs.
Thank you very much for posting this. I was searching around for clunking issues for a while, trying to determine what was wrong, until I finally found the spring was the issue. Your information and link has helped me understand where the problem is coming from.
GTI Jake
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Welcome to the forums!
funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
Further discussion is happening in the following thread
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...own-the-kit-(street-sport-track)-MK7-GOLF-Kit
Gordon238 ran into the springy noises issue (I gave him the MQB205 springs I had because he was unhappy with the 1/2 inch max drop with the MQB220) because the bearing misaligned after he worked on the car. My suggestion is that you do one of the following..
1) If you want the max drop as is, put some 3M double sided tape between the bearing, and the top mount (so there's no chance it'll accidentally drop down) go cockeyed or rotate a bit. Just be careful when putting the car down to make sure the springs are seated correctly with the perch.
- or -
2) Preload the spring a bit (increase adjuster gap) so that there's no chance of this happening when working on the car.
- or -
3) Install MQB220 front springs, note your max drop on the fronts will be limited to 1/2 inch and there's the cost of ripping apart the front suspension but it won't have this problem.
Excelerate and MSS really need to get this inventory musical chairs sorted out, I purchased my springs from XLR8 June and I got MQB205 front springs instead of the MQB220 springs. Why it's still in their inventory? I do not know. My guess is that they don't want to "write" down (from an inventory management perspective) these wrong springs but that ends up causing issues with the customer instead.
Some people want the drops, so receiving the MQB220 front spring will make them quite pissed as it won't reach the advertised lowering range. Maybe give the user a choice of selecting either the MQB220 or the MQB205 front spring, just make them aware of the issue at full droop (and add that info to their install instructions).
Given the max drop of the front MQB220 is about 1/2 inch, doesn't really make sense to purchase it over the standard kit (which doesn't come with front height adjusters). The fully adjustable kit just adds extra complexity, and potential for noises (lots more moving parts) which the standard kit does not have.
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victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
My problem is that I'm not really super low, and my rear springs are at nearly max height. If I get the MQB220, I've gotta replace the rears with the later model springs too, otherwise I'll have reverse rake.
funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
The struggle is real
Contact XLR8, pretty sure they'll work with you and ship you the MQB220 front springs, along with the V2 rear adjusters (which has 60mm ID adjuster and a taller stem).
You'll have to get your suspension taken apart though, and the rear spring stack will need to change from black spring up top, orange spring on bottom -> orange spring up top, black spring on bottom.
Option A may be the easiest, raise the car. Once the bearings separates from the mount, add some 3M double sided stick tape on the bearing (a couple placed strategically around the top of the bearing), make sure it's aligned (note the locator tab on the back needs to be aligned, and pointing inwards towards the engine bay). After you are sure they are aligned, stick the two of them together (aligned correctly) and put some weight on the car. In the future, it'll make sure the bearing won't drop down accidentally.
The 3M double sided tape will conform to the mating surface and won't cause any issues. They sell some good strong stuff at Home Depot , Autozone, Oreilly and etc.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
The struggle is real
Contact XLR8, pretty sure they'll work with you and ship you the MQB220 front springs, along with the V2 rear adjusters (which has 60mm ID adjuster and a taller stem).
You'll have to get your suspension taken apart though, and the rear spring stack will need to change from black spring up top, orange spring on bottom -> orange spring up top, black spring on bottom.
Option A may be the easiest, raise the car. Once the bearings separates from the mount, add some 3M double sided stick tape on the bearing (a couple placed strategically around the top of the bearing), make sure it's aligned (note the locator tab on the back needs to be aligned, and pointing inwards towards the engine bay). After you are sure they are aligned, stick the two of them together (aligned correctly) and put some weight on the car. In the future, it'll make sure the bearing won't drop down accidentally.
The 3M double sided tape will conform to the mating surface and won't cause any issues. They sell some good strong stuff at Home Depot , Autozone, Oreilly and etc.
I read through the entire other thread and am now more aware of the options, I just don't like any of them. While I'm sure some double sided tape is fine, I wouldn't trust it enough that my bearing wouldn't come loose when I drop over a rumble strip at 70mph or I go over a hill at 120mph.
I chose to try out the MSS springs over the Bilstein damptronic coilover because Bilstein refused to say "these are okay on track" and told me directly that they shouldn't be used in any motorsport application. MSS, contrarily, stated "These are great on track," but it seems that was part of the marketing black magic. On track I hit the rumble strips pretty hard, and it's pretty normal for me to have one rear wheel cocked at every corner. Occasionally I've got a front inside wheel off right before the rear inside hits the strip, and it's at those times that I've heard clunking before. If the bearing gets misaligned at that point, I might just end up in a wall.
I bought my springs through NGP, and they've been pretty good about contacting me back today. I've got a race next weekend and a track day two weeks after that. There's no way I'm going to be able to get the springs, get them mounted, drive 2000 miles, and get them corner balanced and aligned by either one of those dates
.funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
Not really sure what to tell you, but maybe just a good idea to run what you currently have until XLR8 and MSS sends you a new MQB220 front spring and the V2 adjusters for the rear. Make sure you start the request now though.
MDLBC noted that the new 60mm ID rear adjusters are now available - he received the V2 version ( as warranty replacement )
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
MDLBC noted that the new 60mm ID rear adjusters are now available - he received the V2 version ( as warranty replacement )
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
ExcelerateSales said:
Rear adjusters are now available - posted by XLR8.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
you've got the mqb220 on the front now, right? Are you still getting coil bind noises? I just started getting those yesterday, and a few days ago I raised the front ride height to minimize the clunking (and bearing getting thrown around). I still get some clunk when just the front left wheel dips, or both fronts dip.
I basically have two options right now. I can get the 034 springs and lose the corner balance ability, or I can try out the mqb220 and rear adjuster and basically lose most of my corner balance ability because the front height changes won't be huge. Basically, my car with my weight, and rear seats folded required my driver's side front to be 9mm lower than my passenger's side front. I had a good amount of rake as well (25-30mm). The car was fast in this setup; very fast, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to corner balance even close to that with the mqb220 spring, and it seems if I do I'll have my rears riding higher than stock. If I get the 034 springs, I can resell my MSS and maybe break even on cost and install. If I get the replacements from MSS, it seems it'll be on me to pay for install, corner balance, and alignment.
All that giant word jumble being said, my question to you, sir, is do you think the MQB220 spring (not considering corner balance) is worth an additional 700$ to you or would you just go direct swap over to 034 and break even on what you've already paid for the MQB205?
My total costs (installs, alignment, and one time use hardware) for MSS will come to 2700$ and for 034 (after selling MSS) would come to 2000$.
funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
I have the MQB220 front springs now, the MQB205 springs they sent me originally (I bought mine as well June this year, same time as you - why we got the 205's, do not really know) had the swimming issue, and it made "springy" binding noises when I turned the steering wheel left or right. It was coupled with the 034 Motorsports Dynamic+ camber mounts.
I'm on the MQB220 front springs now (but still have the V1 adjusters on the rear) - I made a set of Delrin Thrust Sheets for the front and installed it the same time with the new springs, along with the Ground Control camber plates. No "spring" binding noises.
Either way you go, I suggest you get the MQB220 springs along with the V2 adjuster. If you end up selling the kit, the buyer will appreciate that they have the correct/fixed version.
I normally do my own suspension work on the car, so all this "re-installation" had a cost of time (and I have lifetime alignment with Wheel works). I basically set the camber at home with my SmartCamber+, then make them zero out the toe. If you end up installing the 034 Springs, you'll end up paying for the install anyways so I'd say keep it.
As it relates to your car being corner balanced. Not really a big deal IMHO if you measure your existing drops right now and just add a raising offset to it.
The front right corner of the car limits how much you can lower it. On that corner, you basically set the height adjuster to max drop. Measure it, then subtract it from your original measurement which becomes the raising offset.
As an example, let's say your current corner balanced measurements on the old spring (MQB205 springs).
RF = 25.50"
LF = 25.60"
RR = 25.70"
LR = 25.40"
After installing the MQB220 spring (height adjuster on that side set to max drop) - new measurement (from the ground)
RF = 25.75"
so RAISING OFFSET is .25"
you need to set
LF = 25.60" + .25"
RR = 25.70 + .25"
LR = 25.40 + .25"
You'll end up with with the same cross weights as you raised them equally from your baseline.
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victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
My LF was the lowest with it being about 9mm lower than RF. I was at 25.3" with the LF I believe. With the lowest position being 25.75, that means I have to go up by 0.45" per other corner. This kinda sucks, since my rear right is the highest and it's currently 26.5", which is slightly lower than it was stock. If I make it 26.95" that will be about 0.3" higher than it was stock.
Yeah I plan on getting the mqb220 no matter what, so we'll see what shakes out. They may never even touch the car, and I may just delete the DCC and go for a clubsport coilover.
Once upon a time I used to do all the installs, tuning, and even fabbing parts on my own, but now I work 60 hr weeks and my time is worth more, so I just let a shop handle anything that would take me over 2 hrs to do. Oh well, lol.
funks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Dublin, CA
Hopefully whatever DCC canceller you get works correctly and doesn't throw codes (which turns the nannies on).
For example, people are running into issues with the iSWEEP DCC Canceler Kit @ track (something in the electronics gets upset) on the S3, may not be applicable on the R though.