Improvement to the 2x4 method of installing lowering spring.

lb1 said:

I'm considering installing springs using the 2x4 method.
Has anyone seen/tried this before:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ings-DIY&p=110921153&viewfull=1#post110921153

This seems like a good way to help get the strut out...

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The strap is actually a pretty good idea. But probably not necessary. I used the bolt on 2x4 method to install my pro kits, no straps, and was able to do the job alone in my driveway in about 5 hours. Zero issues then or since. I’d you use a proper strut spreader, you probably won’t get much benefit from the strap. The knuckle should drop off the strut almost by its own weight.

Did this on the weekend. Drivers side bolt fit through but passenger side didn’t so I decided to nut up and go through with it anyways. Almost slipped so I had to readjust it and hold it tight, strap would’ve probably helped. Didn’t have a strut spreader so I used a 1/4” ratchet which worked well except the driver side, could not get that thing loose with PB blaster and the ratchet. Chewed through the spindle but eventually it worked. Overall not a bad DIY, thanks all who contributed and gave tips.


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Lowered my GTI today using the 2X4 method today, worked great. I too drilled a hole and used the sway bar bolt and was able to use it on both sides. I also installed a set of H&R springs today on my brother's S3 but didn't need the 2X4 on his.

BMAN said:

Lowered my GTI today using the 2X4 method today, worked great. I too drilled a hole and used the sway bar bolt and was able to use it on both sides. I also installed a set of H&R springs today on my brother's S3 but didn't need the 2X4 on his.

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The 2x4 method is the best !!

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This is awesome. Thank you!

DrDavid said:

The 2x4 method is the best !!

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Indeed the 2x4 method works pretty well.

I used the 2x4 method without the screw holding it. I was not able to clear the spindle to the right because of the 2/4 getting in the way of the strut coming off.

Just wanted to say thanks. This made the driver side soooo much easier. This was my third time installing springs on a vw and you saved me a good hour. Would have been more if it wasn’t for the pos strut spreader I tried to use and ended up having to make my own.

I'm gonna try to improve this even more by


1) Getting skinner / stronger wood so no notching needed for DCC but will still bolt it on to the "SwayBar" mounting point.

Bought a .75 inch x 1.5 inch by 2 FEET "Walnut" hardwood from Home Depot - 4$. This is much harder than your common 2x4's, and should be stronger as well when using with DCC (the notch is the weak point anyways).

2) Combining it with the "STRAP" method (strapping the lower control arm to the jack) while at the same time lifting the strut - this is documented at VWVORTEX..
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https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9103905-Changing-springs-DIY&p=110918769


Bought a "Lashing Strap" which uses a belt buckle type locking mechanism instead of the unweildy ratcheting straps with their s-hooks.

Here's my notes for the Hardwood install with strap

1) Make sure you unplug the DCC cable from the strut

2) Make sure you get some slack in the various wires and hoses by unclipping them from the fender wall, and removing the bolt holding the bracket in front of the knuckle holding the brake line, abs sensor wire and etc.



3) Unbolt the nut holding the headline lever from the lower control arm. Additionally, remove the two screws holding the leveling arm sensor to the bracket. Put it aside and out of harms way



4) Remove the strut pinch nut and bolt

5) Put your strut spindle spreader tool on the top section of the spindle crack and spread it. Spray some silicone grease.

6) Tap the rotors / spindle with your foot - the spindle will slide down about an inch from the strut and the tab will get stuck on the spreader tool

7) Move the spreader tool on the bottom of the spindle crack (so that the strut locator tab is ontop of it) - then spread it.

8) Tap it some more and the spindle will drop some more.

9) At this point, you have the use the hardwood to raise the strut about an inch then swing the spindle out of the way.

deleted - better video down below.https://youtu.be/Sh9b6dmMh5Q

funks said:

A video..

https://youtu.be/Sh9b6dmMh5Q

Click to expand...

Excellent video and description. the 2x4 is the best method. only a suggestion =

never in your life put your finger inside the hole, if the elevator fails or if it breaks the wood you will amputate your finger. Always grab from the outside

Yep, in my case, that wood was bolted tight onto the endlink mount ( not loose ) and the bottom of the wood was cupped in the floor jack using a special jack pad so it wasn’t going anywhere.

Grab from the outside. That’s at full droop, probably around 100 lbs of force being used to get it to clear. The hardwood I used is strong enough to lift that side of the car

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you probably are the fisrt to make a real video of 2x4 method..... the are only a lot of picture but no video, great man !!

Because i am from argentina and here the dimension are in "metros" i could not get exact information about the real width and thickness of the wood.... i use a bigger for this... but think that is not necessary too thickness :confuso:

DrDavid said:

you probably are the fisrt to make a real video of 2x4 method..... the are only a lot of picture but no video, great man !!

Because i am from argentina and here the dimension are in "metros" i could not get exact information about the real width and thickness of the wood.... i use a bigger for this... but think that is not necessary too thickness :confuso:

Click to expand...

There are no set rules on the length or with of the wood because the method is not exclusive to our cars , so you can use whatever size works for your car that is also safe.


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Hope this helps other people..

COUPLE OF TIPS

1. Make sure the car is level, raised on all 4 sections (with jack stands). It's much tougher to push up on the strut with the wood when it's NOT angled.
2. Do use ANTI-SIEZE on the strut spindle and the strut before mating it together.
3. Make sure you have the right tools for the job, the metalnerd spreader is awesome, the Schwaben 21mm Strut Nut tools is great as well, and find a long 7mm allen wrench. Make sure you torque that top nut properly as gudentite don't work when you break off the strut stem, or get some clunking later on because you didn't torque it enough.


https://youtu.be/djj57RtvDZE