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Brake Fluid Flush Necessary???
- Thread starter Jacobmk7
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Yeah it needs to be done, I will be doing mine over the thanksgiving break (I'm only at 42k, but I do it yearly). Its not hard, especially if you have the right tools.
I bought one of these and mainly use the auto refill bottle to keep the res full, then I just crack the bleeder and wait for a while. It helps if your new fluid is a different color so you can see when it has come through, but most of the time you can tell if the old stuff was really nasty.
I bought one of these and mainly use the auto refill bottle to keep the res full, then I just crack the bleeder and wait for a while. It helps if your new fluid is a different color so you can see when it has come through, but most of the time you can tell if the old stuff was really nasty.
kevinkar
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- United States
In several hundred thousand miles of driving over 38 years, I have only changed brake fluid when changing brake pads and rotors. After 50k miles, you're probably due to at least check if you need a brake job. If so, it's a good time to bleed out all the old fluid and put in new.
But if your brakes are working fine and you don't already have a mushy pedal, you can easily wait until you do a brake job. It's not something you have to do just to do it because you're worried. Changing fluid when it's not necessary is nothing but a waste of money. It won't affect longevity of the car or cause any problems.
While brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water over time) if it's not causing issues, there's no reason to change it.
And for the record, I have generally had to do brake jobs around the 40k - 50k mark.
But if your brakes are working fine and you don't already have a mushy pedal, you can easily wait until you do a brake job. It's not something you have to do just to do it because you're worried. Changing fluid when it's not necessary is nothing but a waste of money. It won't affect longevity of the car or cause any problems.
While brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water over time) if it's not causing issues, there's no reason to change it.
And for the record, I have generally had to do brake jobs around the 40k - 50k mark.
Tsi7
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
This is a good point and I agree... Manufactures recommend brake fluid every 2 to 3 years... Let's take the higher end of 3 years, which is more realistic, and you're probably around the 40k mark and maybe in need for pads and rotors, so why not change the fluid while you're at it, should that be the case
Now of course if you're having a mushy pedal then the fluid has already started to disintegrate and it would be a good idea to change it.
Now if it's visibly dirty and the color has changed, then I would say it's a must... Dirty fluid can clog the lines, which can then lead to some very nasty things... Ask me how I know (according to the vw shop that fixed my then mk4, something broke apart in my master cylinder causing debris to enter and contaminate the fluid)
Bad advice.
By the time the everyday driver thinks "hmmm, the pedal is mushy", it's way way way past time to change the fluid.
He's adapted to the change gradually, and doesn't realize it's as bad as it is. A fresh driver coming in would immediately notice long before the regular driver notices.
Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
I really don't understand why this is a service people want to ignore.
A liter of synthetic brake fluid is what, $10?
If you have a compressor, a cheap vacuum bleeder is like $30 on Amazon. A full sized fluid extractor with adapter for brakes can be had for like $80 if you shop around, and has a ton of uses.
So for a total of $40 and 20 minutes work during a tire rotation or other brake service, you're all set and you will prevent rust and corrosion inside the brake system from the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid.
You do not need VCDS or OBD11 to cycle the ABS system unless you introduce air into the system.
Vacuum the res, refill with clean fluid, and then just go caliper to caliper with the vacuum bleeder. Have someone else pour fluid in while you vacuum it out. Or just do it yourself but be careful not to go too long without refilling the reservoir so you don't suck air.
Very easy and simple.
A liter of synthetic brake fluid is what, $10?
If you have a compressor, a cheap vacuum bleeder is like $30 on Amazon. A full sized fluid extractor with adapter for brakes can be had for like $80 if you shop around, and has a ton of uses.
So for a total of $40 and 20 minutes work during a tire rotation or other brake service, you're all set and you will prevent rust and corrosion inside the brake system from the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid.
You do not need VCDS or OBD11 to cycle the ABS system unless you introduce air into the system.
Vacuum the res, refill with clean fluid, and then just go caliper to caliper with the vacuum bleeder. Have someone else pour fluid in while you vacuum it out. Or just do it yourself but be careful not to go too long without refilling the reservoir so you don't suck air.
Very easy and simple.
Thanks guys for all your advice, my brakes still have about 50% life on them as it’s just my DD and doesn’t get driven real hard, but I’m still gonna do the flush probably, because VW recommends it. Do you think this would be a good bleeder? It doesn’t have the catch bottles, but I figured I would just put drain pan down or something.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-motive-...hL240whiInFW1C2SkdTlLeYWnrwS9NSxoCxIYQAvD_BwE
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-motive-...hL240whiInFW1C2SkdTlLeYWnrwS9NSxoCxIYQAvD_BwE
The owner's manual specifies do it after the first 3 years and then every 2 years thereafter, independent of mileage.
You may choose to question VW's specification, and/or ignore VW's specification. But I don't know why you would.
What cars have you owned prior to this? Have you ever done it before? Has anyone ever recommended that you do it before?
Your GTI is not any different in this regard; if you've done it with prior cars, you'll do it with this car.
If you haven't done it with prior cars, now's the time to start. Regardless of the car, the answer is "yes" to the two questions you posed.
For example, Honda specifies a 3 year interval independent of mileage. I'm sure every manufacturer has a similar specification.
If you drive a lot of highway miles and you don't need pads/rotors replaced for a lot of miles, that doesn't change the fluid replacement intervals.
A Prius will go 200K or more before needing pads/rotors replaced; however, it still needs the brake fluid replaced at timed intervals. My point here is, it's bad advice to say "do it when you replace the brakes". Everyone's brake usage is different, but the fluid needs changed on a time interval independent of miles or brake pad/rotor usage.
^gwt the one from shopDAP. it includes the drain bottle
As far as ehat everyone is saying, this is often an over looked service. Brake fluid is meant to carry dirt and other crap that may get into the lines. It also picks up water. I would highly recommend following the intervals for it, which is 30k. It’s an easy DIY and you’re not going to want a mushy pedal
As far as ehat everyone is saying, this is often an over looked service. Brake fluid is meant to carry dirt and other crap that may get into the lines. It also picks up water. I would highly recommend following the intervals for it, which is 30k. It’s an easy DIY and you’re not going to want a mushy pedal
Elwood
3-7-77
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
As you say, it picks up dirt AND WATER.
It's not a mileage based thing, by any means. Plenty of people here put 8K/year on their cars, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't pay attention to the brake fluid.
It's a time based interval.
railroader
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Yuma Arizona
Ya I'm in the process of doing this, I'm using motul rbf660
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^^^^^^ This. Youll get moisture and corrosion in the master cylinder, ABS unit, and the pistons and seals in the calipers. Back when ABS first starting appearing on higher priced cars I had a Mazda with it. Didn't figure flushing was needed either. I was driving home one night and needed to panic stop to avoid an animal. The master cylinder blew. I was near home and drove there with no problems. The next morning all my brake fluid was on the garage floor. I had it towed to the dealer where they replaced it. Two days later I leaned on the brakes and blew one of the front caliper piston seals. I figured they were rebuildble but when they took them apart the pistons and cylinders were pitted and corroded, and I needed new ones. Cost me $1,000 back in the mid-90's. After that I became a believer. If I were driving to work all I would have had was the parking brake.
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