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16 MK7R Car rocks back and forth

DasTornado

New member
Location
San Diego, CA
I've got a 2016 MK7R 6MT with 48k miles, and an RSR clutch is the only mod (so far). I bought it CPO, so I'm considering having a dealer checking it out, but thought I'd ask others about their experiences first.

In first gear, quick changes in throttle input cause the car to rock back and forth, regardless of the DCC setting. I understand that it's the change in torque that's causing the body to shift, but the rocking front to back has me caught off guard. I expect the car to be more buttoned down, so the body motion is surprising. Are there some particular mounts or bushings to check out first, or is this just what the R feels like?

I doubt it's related, as something probably just needs grease, but the front suspension creaks over speed bumps.
 

Urlik

Go Kart Newbie
Location
San Angelo, TX
May have a bad engine/transmission mount. Honestly your description isn't very helpful since sudden throttle changes and braking should cause front to back type movements. But I'm assuming it's somehow worse than normal and mounts would be a great place to look first.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
^^^^ This. That creaking you hear could be worn bushings or something loose or broken. Who installed the clutch? Did the car do this before the clutch was installed? Could be the bolts were just air-gunned in and not torqued.
 

DasTornado

New member
Location
San Diego, CA
It's certainly worse than I'd normally expect. Braking doesn't trigger it, and my mk7 GTI never had this feeling. The throttle changes required to notice it aren't extreme, but on the order of coming on and off the gas in traffic or parking lots. In some ways, it reminds me of how cheap, non-performance cars bounce around due to everything being sloppy. It's been there since before the clutch install, and that was done by an excellent shop.
 

DasTornado

New member
Location
San Diego, CA
I did more digging on forums today and am fairly convinced that the drivetrain mounts are the culprit. In case anyone runs across this thread, I'm linking a reply to another that was started regarding rough 1-2 shifts. I learned quickly with this car to wait out the rev hang between first and second, and have become fairly consistent with smoother engagements, especially since a bleeder block delay valve delete. It's making the most sense that what I'm experiencing is a combination of general drivetrain slop that others have reported and 50k miles of wear. It feels a bit like the engine could be getting pinned against the mount, then when throttle is eased off, it swings back into position, and that's being felt everywhere in the car.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=666063&postcount=24
 

Dr. Kenneth Noisewater

Ready to race!
Location
Rhode Island
Yeah, that sounds a bit like my GTI was around 40K. New mounts made a world of difference. That car was DSG, my new R is manual, but in both cases these cars do have a considerable amount of engine movement. Makes for a nice ride though, pros and cons.

From experience, find a guide on how to align the engine side support frame when bolting these in. I did it wrong a few times and it led to some strange engine movement.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

PLF8593

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Philly
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
From experience, find a guide on how to align the engine side support frame when bolting these in. I did it wrong a few times and it led to some strange engine movement.
\

Did you use a guide for this? I'm starting to think that my mounts were installed incorrectly. Wondering whether this might've led to my roc euro bar ruining my old transmission, as my car now has 034 engine/trans mounts, APR insert, and APR pendulum bar and it does NOT drive like it should. The common denominator being the 034 engine/trans mounts. Before, when my old transmission failed, it was 034 engine/trans mounts + 034 insert + roc euro stabilizer
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
OP has 48,000 miles, and since no one except the previous owner knows how it was driven, I'd let the dealer evaluate it. Did you replace the clutch in preparation for a piggyback, or because it was slipping? I'll assume since you paid extra for the CPO warranty you're not going to throw it away on a flash tune? And was there evidence the clutch was replaced before?
 

DasTornado

New member
Location
San Diego, CA
OP has 48,000 miles, and since no one except the previous owner knows how it was driven, I'd let the dealer evaluate it. Did you replace the clutch in preparation for a piggyback, or because it was slipping? I'll assume since you paid extra for the CPO warranty you're not going to throw it away on a flash tune? And was there evidence the clutch was replaced before?

The clutch got replaced because the original was slipping when driven properly (like I stole it). The original owner probably sold it knowing that the clutch was going, and I'm the unlucky one to have bought it. I actually ended up with this car because I wanted DCC and a manual. Most of what was on the market was DCC+DSG or non-DCC+6MT. The CPO warranty was somewhat accidental. I've been toying with the idea of an APR stage 1 tune and rolling the dice with a reflash before any warranty claims. Realistically, I think I'd prefer a 7-speed DSG, despite specifically getting a 6MT to avoid the 6AT. It's a terrible game we play with weighing mods against saving for the next best thing. Hell, after a few months of ownership and realizing the R is probably too fast for public roads (with my lack of restraint), I'm tempted to swap it if I can get one of the Rabbit Edition GTIs. RIP, wallet.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Too fast? Get a piggyback and put it in valet mode. :) Dinan makes one, it subtracts a few pounds of boost when set to valet.
 

DasTornado

New member
Location
San Diego, CA
Too fast? Get a piggyback and put it in valet mode. :) Dinan makes one, it subtracts a few pounds of boost when set to valet.

Hah, no way am I nerfing it. I just recognize that having fun with the car means pushing it to nine tenths. My GTI was fun at 6 or 7 tenths, and pushing it to the limit was generally a bad idea. To date, I haven't found a situation where my comfort with driving faster exceeds the limits of the R.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Hah, no way am I nerfing it. I just recognize that having fun with the car means pushing it to nine tenths. My GTI was fun at 6 or 7 tenths, and pushing it to the limit was generally a bad idea. To date, I haven't found a situation where my comfort with driving faster exceeds the limits of the R.

Which is why we buy them.:) And you can't disable the EDL's so you need to really work at it to make the car break loose, especially on a dry level road.
 

Dr. Kenneth Noisewater

Ready to race!
Location
Rhode Island
Did you use a guide for this? I'm starting to think that my mounts were installed incorrectly. Wondering whether this might've led to my roc euro bar ruining my old transmission, as my car now has 034 engine/trans mounts, APR insert, and APR pendulum bar and it does NOT drive like it should. The common denominator being the 034 engine/trans mounts. Before, when my old transmission failed, it was 034 engine/trans mounts + 034 insert + roc euro stabilizer
I downloaded the VW shop manual from EslaWeb or whatever it called.

Not user friendly to aquire, but they are very thorough.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 
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