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What oil do you run?

nofuiyo

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
North Carolina
Got titanium?




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jrg

New member
Location
Seattle
Recently made the switch (from Liqui Moly 5w-40) to Castrol Edge European Formula 0W-40. Available at Walmart $22.67/ 5L.
 

WhiteTigerSE

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Idaho
So, I just got my oil changed with 8131 miles on the LiquiMoly 5W40. Got bored and started researching oil again... and came across other threads talking about how our cars need a lot of zinc? And some arguments about too much ash is bad for the engine? Then I started looking at this new thing called "groups", which is some kind of oil rating system. Apparently, only Motul and Redline are sold as group 4 or 5? And the rest are lower tier? So I'm a bit confused at the moment... was considering Motul for my next oil change, and ECS tuning sells specific whereas everyone on here recommends X-cess? Why? Does anyone have an answer to all these questions I've asked about? Haha

Edit: I'm also considering doing 7,000 mile intervals. The 8,131 miles i drove on the last oil was mainly highway driving, about 80% with an average speed of 50 mph. If that percentage drops, I may up the OCI to 5,000.
 

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
So, I just got my oil changed with 8131 miles on the LiquiMoly 5W40. Got bored and started researching oil again... and came across other threads talking about how our cars need a lot of zinc? And some arguments about too much ash is bad for the engine? Then I started looking at this new thing called "groups", which is some kind of oil rating system. Apparently, only Motul and Redline are sold as group 4 or 5? And the rest are lower tier? So I'm a bit confused at the moment... was considering Motul for my next oil change, and ECS tuning sells specific whereas everyone on here recommends X-cess? Why? Does anyone have an answer to all these questions I've asked about? Haha

Edit: I'm also considering doing 7,000 mile intervals. The 8,131 miles i drove on the last oil was mainly highway driving, about 80% with an average speed of 50 mph. If that percentage drops, I may up the OCI to 5,000.

Lots of info here, actually enough to make your head explode:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Many educated/well informed posters with excellent information. You'll soon learn who they are. Lots of idiots there too, but kinda easy to spot as well.
 

WhiteTigerSE

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Idaho

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons

WhiteTigerSE

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Idaho
I change my oil every 5k so fuck it. I can probably run shit oil and still be ok :D

I'm going to do 5k OCI as well.
Recent research has shifted my attention and concerns towards our GDI engine being vulnerable to Carbon Build Up on the Valves.
It doesn't seem we can do much about it.

Liqui-Moly LHT 5W-40 has SAPS rating @ 1.2% and NOACK rating @ 9.6%. Based on my research, a good oil for GDI engines would have <0.7% SAPS / <9% NOACK ratings. The SAPS on LM is a bit high.

I got back a reply via e-mail from Liqui-Moly. They recommend Fuel Injection Cleaners every 1,200 miles, Engine oil flush every 20,000 miles, and throttle valve cleaner every year. They also suggested I stick with LHT 5W-40.

So, I'll stick with the same oil and do the following. I'll add Fuel Injection Cleaners every other oil change. I'll do a engine oil flush and throttle valve cleaner while doing my full service @40,000 miles. I'm considering doing the Italian tune up every now and then on 91+ Octane as it supposedly helps.

I'll probably consider walnut blasting the valves @ 80,000 miles. Other than that... best option would be to trade it in for a Ford Mustang GT... as it is set up with port and direct injection.
 
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roundle1979

Ready to race!
Location
DC Metro
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI SE 6MT
Lots of info here, actually enough to make your head explode:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Many educated/well informed posters with excellent information. You'll soon learn who they are. Lots of idiots there too, but kinda easy to spot as well.

Agree. Great site full of nerds.

Group I: Not multi-grade ('30 weight')
Group II: multi-grade (5w30)
Group III: "Hydro-cracked" dyno juice that is allowed to be called synthetic in the USA
Group IV: Typically PAO-based, full synthetic (Synthetic Oil in Europe is typically group IV)
Group V: Typically Ester-based, full synthetic (Redline and the racing Motul stuff falls into this category
 
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knollMk7

Ready to race!
Location
Virginia
There aren't that many oils that are VW 505/505 approved. So to take a reductionist approach, if the oil meets VW cert. it's good. BUT that's not good enough for our minds.

There's some psychology at work here that makes us hate that approach. The only choices most of us have involving "caring for" the engine is: to change the oil & filter and choose the fuel we use. But apparently these are too minimal: they don't fully satisfy our primal need to "defend and protect" our assets. We seem to be driven by instinct to be more fatherly towards our GTI. So we turn to obsessing over the only decisions we have the responsibility to make as a way to reassure ourselves that we ARE fulfilling our destiny.

So it's OK to amuse ourselves that we think we can determine which of the 502/505 oils are BEST for our GTI children. But also, we'll probably have put them up for adoption well before our oil choices will have made any difference to longevity of their engines.
 
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