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BFI Stage 1 Engine & Tranny Mounts

Sir_Mk7r

Ready to race!
Location
Atl
Just ordered the stage 1 motor mount inserts...have had stage 2 engine and trans on the car for maybe 1500 miles and can't stand it.

The vibration is fine, the constant mechanical/engine noise transmitted into the cabin is unacceptable to me.

Im very interested to hear how this works for you
 

TheGreekFreak

Go Kart Champion
Location
MA
The vibration is fine, the constant mechanical/engine noise transmitted into the cabin is unacceptable to me.

Exactly what I experienced. Not much added vibration but my goodness was it loud inside the cabin. Not in a good way either.

S1 insert fixed it, no more NVH with both S1 mounts.
 

TheGreekFreak

Go Kart Champion
Location
MA
After I installed my bfi engine mount, I did the trans the next night. When I took off the oem trans, it went hella out of alignment. We had to crowbar the trans to even barely get the bolts through. Could a slightly misaligned transmount cause any transmission issues over time? I am starting to get a clank when free revving only.

For me it was more access to all the bolts that was the problem, even with the ECU unplugged. How did it come out of alignment? Did you not jack up the trans enough to keep it in place?

I had to play with jacking it up a bit to get the bolts to thread nicely but nothing that required a crowbar lol
 

Visceral

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Northbrook, IL
Get the stage 1 BFI kit but skip the poly insert at the dogbone and use a 034 insert and you will be happy with it.

Thanks everyone for some feedback...

SugarMouth, will look into this more. Its worth noting that SuperPro is the only manufacturer I have found that states (but doesn't warrant) no increase in NVH, which is what drew me to it (I get the cost piece, believe me). If the BFI stage 1 with the 034 insert doesn't increase NVH I'm on board but I take it that is not a realistic expectation.
 

WhyNotZoidberg?

Ready to race!
Location
Chi-Town
Car(s)
2017 GTI, 2015 TDI
Thanks everyone for some feedback...

SugarMouth, will look into this more. Its worth noting that SuperPro is the only manufacturer I have found that states (but doesn't warrant) no increase in NVH, which is what drew me to it (I get the cost piece, believe me). If the BFI stage 1 with the 034 insert doesn't increase NVH I'm on board but I take it that is not a realistic expectation.

Is the extra $140 over the BFI set all that unpalatable, considering the difference in quality for the Superpros, and the fact that you get a proper dogbone bushing (upper & lower) vs. just an insert into the stock one? :confused:
 

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
Is the extra $140 over the BFI set all that unpalatable, considering the difference in quality for the Superpros, and the fact that you get a proper dogbone bushing (upper & lower) vs. just an insert into the stock one? :confused:

The install on the Superpro dogbone bushing typically requires a removal of the subframe. That means an alignment is needed as well.

Just want to be sure everyone knows it's not just an insert.

The bushing can be done without removing the subframe but you will wish you did.
 

Visceral

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Northbrook, IL
The install on the Superpro dogbone bushing typically requires a removal of the subframe. That means an alignment is needed as well.

Just want to be sure everyone knows it's not just an insert.

The bushing can be done without removing the subframe but you will wish you did.

That's good info, didn't realize that. OK, so now the SuperPro's are even more expensive... awesome.
 

805mk7gti

Ready to race!
Location
Socal
Would have most likely gone with BFI stage one motor mount to match my bfi stage 2 transmission mount. But while checking ECS last night they had a Scratch and Dent ECS motor mount for only $150 shipped. In the photos it barely looked scratched at all.

Seeing as ECS basically copied the Revo mounts and I've read people seem to really like those I figured it was worth a shot.
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
Would have most likely gone with BFI stage one motor mount to match my bfi stage 2 transmission mount. But while checking ECS last night they had a Scratch and Dent ECS motor mount for only $150 shipped. In the photos it barely looked scratched at all.

Seeing as ECS basically copied the Revo mounts and I've read people seem to really like those I figured it was worth a shot.

I've got the ECS mounts for both sides and the full HPA bone. Slight vibration increase at idle when cold and that's really about it. I did increase idle speed via vcds immediately after install, so I don't know what it'd be like without it. After warmup I can't even tell a difference in nvh now.

I was hesitant to go ECS because of all the bad mouthing they've gotten here, but I've bought several other things from them and everything has been hunky dory.
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
When I first installed these. I didn't realize I put in the trans mount super askew. I think doing these right are a little more complicated than people realize. There are a lot of alignment nuances that I think most diyers miss when trying to do these at home.

That being said when I went to do it again the right way, I realized vw put a semi alignment circle I to the unused circle on the amount. This circle should sit in the exact middle of the mount. Mine was preloaded off to one side and caused some issues over time. Also, the engine mount block should be exactly 10mm from the frame with the mount perfectly parallel.
 

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SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
When I first installed these. I didn't realize I put in the trans mount super askew. I think doing these right are a little more complicated than people realize. There are a lot of alignment nuances that I think most diyers miss when trying to do these at home.

That being said when I went to do it again the right way, I realized vw put a semi alignment circle I to the unused circle on the amount. This circle should sit in the exact middle of the mount. Mine was preloaded off to one side and caused some issues over time. Also, the engine mount block should be exactly 10mm from the frame with the mount perfectly parallel.

Glad you got it handled and I agree I don't think people put enough emphasis on alignment and just slap the bolts in. I've done it twice now and all good both times. I am so anal about it I clean the surface prior to installing the new mounts.
 

TheGreekFreak

Go Kart Champion
Location
MA
Glad you got it handled and I agree I don't think people put enough emphasis on alignment and just slap the bolts in. I've done it twice now and all good both times. I am so anal about it I clean the surface prior to installing the new mounts.

How can it be significantly off alignment if all the bolts thread in clean by hand before torquing them down? Is it really that easy to mess up using new bolts and torquing everything properly?
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
How can it be significantly off alignment if all the bolts thread in clean by hand before torquing them down? Is it really that easy to mess up using new bolts and torquing everything properly?

Yes. There is a lot of play in the design. It doesn't matter if they thread in clean, mine did and it was horribly off kilter and I could only tell when looking up at it with belly pan off. If you're down there you can look up and see if it's aligned with the frame.
 

TheGreekFreak

Go Kart Champion
Location
MA
Yes. There is a lot of play in the design. It doesn't matter if they thread in clean, mine did and it was horribly off kilter and I could only tell when looking up at it with belly pan off. If you're down there you can look up and see if it's aligned with the frame.

Well, guess I'm gonna be taking a peak tomorrow lol
 
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