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DIY MIB1 to MIB2 Infotainment Conversion (Part 1)

danjam

danjam

New member
Location
nova
So I just finished a remote activation session, and we got everything working (even the performance monitor!) with the exception of the sound. We went through every option, and even back through VCDS to make sure the long coding was correct. We tested the radio, media in, and the phone. No luck getting sound from any of these sources.

Should I be looking at the head unit, or the amp? Again, the screen and all functions are working properly (bluetooth, driving modes, app-connect, pm, etc), the only issue is no sound.

Please help. TIA!
 
tylerf0606

tylerf0606

Ready to race!
Location
Waukesha, WI
danjam said:
So I just finished a remote activation session, and we got everything working (even the performance monitor!) with the exception of the sound. We went through every option, and even back through VCDS to make sure the long coding was correct. We tested the radio, media in, and the phone. No luck getting sound from any of these sources.

Should I be looking at the head unit, or the amp? Again, the screen and all functions are working properly (bluetooth, driving modes, app-connect, pm, etc), the only issue is no sound.

Please help. TIA!
Click to expand...
I'd check the amp. Is there anyway to bypass the amp?

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 
G

George Ab

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Pacific NW
danjam said:
So I just finished a remote activation session, and we got everything working (even the performance monitor!) with the exception of the sound. We went through every option, and even back through VCDS to make sure the long coding was correct. We tested the radio, media in, and the phone. No luck getting sound from any of these sources.

Should I be looking at the head unit, or the amp? Again, the screen and all functions are working properly (bluetooth, driving modes, app-connect, pm, etc), the only issue is no sound.

Please help. TIA!
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear your having issues Dan. I had a similar problem after I did some coding changes, mine was coding. You are close; and you have performance monitor.

Here a couple of thoughts.

Once you know your coding of amplifier and headunit are definitely correct; from there develop plan to check if there is a hardware problem with head unit or amplifier.

Double check the coding of amplifier. I don't have a lot of confidence that there is an issue there as Jack is pretty sharp and he would of checked. My coding for amp was: 2200000000AAAAAA000000000000

Double check head unit bytes 04 and 11. I put a link below that had more details concerning values, but it is more intended for someone who is getting rid of the Fender external amp. However, the coding information has value for this situation.

If that checks out, then you need to determine if head unit or amp hardware problem. Sound comes from fiber optic when external amp is used and pins when no external amp. You can check to see if you have output from head unit by changing coding of head unit for non-fender, then putting 1Khz test tone (google and download test tones if you don't have) input and then checking output pins. Should see about .8V rms and 0 when you pause. There is a thread on this as I updated when I switched my fender amp for aftermarket amplifier. I will look for later.

Here is the thread that has coding I mentioned and diagram of location of pins to check for output to speakers from head unit. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29694&page=2
 
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danjam

danjam

New member
Location
nova
George Ab said:
Sorry to hear your having issues Dan. I had a similar problem after I did some coding changes, mine was coding. You are close; and you have performance monitor.

Here a couple of thoughts.

Once you know your coding of amplifier and headunit are definitely correct; from there develop plan to check if there is a hardware problem with head unit or amplifier.

Double check the coding of amplifier. I don't have a lot of confidence that there is an issue there as Jack is pretty sharp and he would of checked. My coding for amp was: 2200000000AAAAAA000000000000

Double check head unit bytes 04 and 11. I put a link below that had more details concerning values, but it is more intended for someone who is getting rid of the Fender external amp. However, the coding information has value for this situation.

If that checks out, then you need to determine if head unit or amp hardware problem. Sound comes from fiber optic when external amp is used and pins when no external amp. You can check to see if you have output from head unit by changing coding of head unit for non-fender, then putting 1Khz test tone (google and download test tones if you don't have) input and then checking output pins. Should see about .8V rms and 0 when you pause. There is a thread on this as I updated when I switched my fender amp for aftermarket amplifier. I will look for later.

Here is the thread that has coding I mentioned and diagram of location of pins to check for output to speakers from head unit. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29694&page=2
Click to expand...
George, thanks as usual. I had a feeling this would be the route to take. I will double check coding first, and then the internal output from the head unit. My gut is telling me that it might be the amp since this was the only piece not "tested and confirmed working" since it came from a salvage yard.

If it ends up being the amp, I'll most likely bypass it with an aftermarket one similar to the process described in the thread you linked.

Thanks again. Will keep you posted on the test results.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
G

George Ab

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Pacific NW
I am pulling for coding. I had made some changes and had similar symptom of no sound and it was coding.

If it comes down to amplifier, here are some thoughts. I realize I am getting ahead of myself. I replaced my fender amplifer with an alpine MRV-500. It is small enough to fit under the front seat in place of fender. It cost $230 and I sold my MIB2 for $310, and original MIB1 for $250 if I can remember correctly. You would have to run power, but you could use your existing speaker wiring. What you will lose is ability to control subwoofer with the head unit. Wait six months so when you’re fully healed from the trauma of the MIB1 to MIB2 conversion and then replace speakers. I wanted ability to control subwoofer as it depends on what I am listening to, and I wanted time correction for drivers position. To get, I went with a DSP, Audison Bit 10 D under passenger’s seat. Replaced wiring and Focal 165AS speakers. With sound treatment and install I probably have 80 hours of labor into the install. The pain of the install is starting to fade from memory.

I was happy with my MIB2 fender system, but just today I’m thinking “I can’t believe I am in a car”…. the audio is that good.
 
SportwagenTDi

SportwagenTDi

New member
Location
USA
Thanks everyone for all the great info.
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger and switching to Mib2 on my 2015 Tdi Sportwagen SEL.

Does anyone have Jack's contact as I could not find it in any of the post(for privacy reasons I'm sure), if so can someone PM it to me if possible.

Thanks
 
danjam

danjam

New member
Location
nova
George Ab said:
Sorry to hear your having issues Dan. I had a similar problem after I did some coding changes, mine was coding. You are close; and you have performance monitor.

Here a couple of thoughts.

Once you know your coding of amplifier and headunit are definitely correct; from there develop plan to check if there is a hardware problem with head unit or amplifier.

Double check the coding of amplifier. I don't have a lot of confidence that there is an issue there as Jack is pretty sharp and he would of checked. My coding for amp was: 2200000000AAAAAA000000000000

Double check head unit bytes 04 and 11. I put a link below that had more details concerning values, but it is more intended for someone who is getting rid of the Fender external amp. However, the coding information has value for this situation.

If that checks out, then you need to determine if head unit or amp hardware problem. Sound comes from fiber optic when external amp is used and pins when no external amp. You can check to see if you have output from head unit by changing coding of head unit for non-fender, then putting 1Khz test tone (google and download test tones if you don't have) input and then checking output pins. Should see about .8V rms and 0 when you pause. There is a thread on this as I updated when I switched my fender amp for aftermarket amplifier. I will look for later.

Here is the thread that has coding I mentioned and diagram of location of pins to check for output to speakers from head unit. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29694&page=2
Click to expand...

So I ran through all the coding for a fourth and fifth time, and everything is correct. I went ahead and tested the direct, high level output from the brain using the suggested test tone, and the coding set to internal sound system mode... no dice. I'm going to try and test it again using my SD source, and hooking the output to an actual speaker. This should rule out any faults in the aux jack and/or cable or the voltmeter.

For reference, I ran though all of output settings (2 channel by 4 speakers, 4 by 6, 4 by 8, etc.) and tested for output on all contacts to no avail. It's likely the brain that's having issues. I have already picked up a second brain, and unfortunately will need to run through the CP/FEC process again. This time, once CP is removed I can test for audio before proceeding with the other programming.

LET THIS BE A LESSON TO OTHERS ATTEMPTING THE INSTALL: Make sure you test your audio and functions after CP is removed, but before FECs are loaded. If there is an issue with hardware, you can identify it at this point, and save yourself about an hour or two of programming labor.
 
B

BigStogs

New member
Location
Sugar Grove, IL
I am really trying to decide if this conversion is really worth it. I'd love to have the Apple CarPlay, but it seems like a hefty expense to even attempt this process.

I wonder if just switching to the MIB2 and the updated and larger screen while replacing the factory amp, speakers and subwoofer may be a bit easier. Are the door and pillar speakers ran off the MIB2 and not the Fender amp? Would there be any coding issues avoided or created with the going this way?
 
danjam

danjam

New member
Location
nova
George Ab said:
I am pulling for coding. I had made some changes and had similar symptom of no sound and it was coding.

If it comes down to amplifier, here are some thoughts. I realize I am getting ahead of myself. I replaced my fender amplifer with an alpine MRV-500. It is small enough to fit under the front seat in place of fender. It cost $230 and I sold my MIB2 for $310, and original MIB1 for $250 if I can remember correctly. You would have to run power, but you could use your existing speaker wiring. What you will lose is ability to control subwoofer with the head unit. Wait six months so when you’re fully healed from the trauma of the MIB1 to MIB2 conversion and then replace speakers. I wanted ability to control subwoofer as it depends on what I am listening to, and I wanted time correction for drivers position. To get, I went with a DSP, Audison Bit 10 D under passenger’s seat. Replaced wiring and Focal 165AS speakers. With sound treatment and install I probably have 80 hours of labor into the install. The pain of the install is starting to fade from memory.

I was happy with my MIB2 fender system, but just today I’m thinking “I can’t believe I am in a car”…. the audio is that good.
Click to expand...

Alas, all signs point to the amp being DOA. When testing the brain the first time, I didn't get any voltage reading with the test tone. However, I picked up a junk test speaker from best buy (fyi, they toss these into recycling on a daily basis) and managed to get sound on all channels from the internal mode.

I plan to go the route of an aftermarket multi-channel amp under the seat. I just need to do a little more research on active crossovers so I can make sure the signal being doled out to each speaker is within their proper ranges.

Did your speaker upgrade include the woofer in the hatch? I read somewhere that the sub enclosure is already poly-filled from the factory. Are there any improvements to be seen from replacing the hardware inside, or is better signal control enough?...or maybe both??
 
danjam

danjam

New member
Location
nova
I have a set of virgin FEC codes for App-Connect that I purchased from the UK. I ended up not needing it since it was taken care of through remote activation.

For anyone that plans to have a dealership activate their MIB2 conversion, I am willing to let this go for a reasonable price. PM me if interested.
 
G

George Ab

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Pacific NW
Congrats on making progress on your troubleshooting.



danjam said:
Did your speaker upgrade include the woofer in the hatch? I read somewhere that the sub enclosure is already poly-filled from the factory. Are there any improvements to be seen from replacing the hardware inside, or is better signal control enough?...or maybe both??
Click to expand...


Yes, I upgraded my subwoofer before I the rest of the system. I built the enclosure and added speaker. This is my build from the "Fender Subwoofer "cheap and easy" review" thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=610102&postcount=47 The speaker was a 2 ohm dual coil as original Fender system as two inputs, I had to rewire the dual coil in series for a 4 ohm single coil for new amplifier.


Finding places for crossovers was a challenge and the entire install ate massive time. The Fender system does sound good under all circumstances.
 
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Diggs24

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
danjam said:
Alas, all signs point to the amp being DOA. When testing the brain the first time, I didn't get any voltage reading with the test tone. However, I picked up a junk test speaker from best buy (fyi, they toss these into recycling on a daily basis) and managed to get sound on all channels from the internal mode.

I plan to go the route of an aftermarket multi-channel amp under the seat. I just need to do a little more research on active crossovers so I can make sure the signal being doled out to each speaker is within their proper ranges.

Did your speaker upgrade include the woofer in the hatch? I read somewhere that the sub enclosure is already poly-filled from the factory. Are there any improvements to be seen from replacing the hardware inside, or is better signal control enough?...or maybe both??
Click to expand...

Adding 4 oz of polyfill to your Fender sub will help. No it does not have any type of fill from the factory.
 
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