VW Golf MK7 Estate, GT spec, Tungsten Silver, 1.4TSI

Any clues as to the 3 new products?


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Scottiedogg said:

Any clues as to the 3 new products?


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Total cost of approx. £460 & one is made in UK.

None are OEM parts, but OEM style in function etc, but could be considered the best aftermarket parts so sort of OEM. All three are brand new for the MQB platform & my engine.

golfdave said:

Total cost of approx. £460 & one is made in UK.

None are OEM parts, but OEM style in function etc, but could be considered the best aftermarket parts so sort of OEM. All three are brand new for the MQB platform & my engine.

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Damn you made me curious.... Your topics are my go-to topics when it comes to ea211 1.4 stuff... Reaaaaally curious what you ordered. I'm guessing it's not the Forge dump valve [emoji16]

Chillout said:

Damn you made me curious.... Your topics are my go-to topics when it comes to ea211 1.4 stuff... Reaaaaally curious what you ordered. I'm guessing it's not the Forge dump valve [emoji16]

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In the right area....but that item is not really needed on these engines from what I have researched...(& I've done quite a bit of research on these items) & have been wanting to do these mods since day one, but the products of the quality I wanted have only just become available...

It's not a remap...I was also re-considering that, but after doing several "rally" style drives down the back roads recently.......This engine pulls like a train & will snap your head back & also revs like my old nat asp 1.4lt which would headbutt the rev limiter at 7200rpm easy! More power from a re-map would not achieve anything constructive, or usable on these twisty, winding roads especially with just 2WD!

Driving skill/style can make up a huge power deficit, & I scare my mates in R32/S3 cars...infact I was teaching them how to drive their cars down these roads...brake & drop down the gears, before the corners & DRIVE the car around. Don't cruise around in 5th/6th...hit 3rd or 4th & use the force...

P.S. I also just managed a calibrated 48.6mpg (UK) whilst doing a "rally" style drive (in Sport mode) last Sunday, on a trip total of 47miles on twisty (very) roads! Shell Vpower helps!

OK so two of the items I ordered arrived in the past week or so. One unfortunately does not have the cable it requires to connect to the cars CANBUS, & said item was a PITA to update the firmware as the socket on the device is recessed & the plug won't fully contact..bad design...IMHO!!...Anyway the UK importers were told & a cable direct from the manufacturers is on the way!

The other item which was made here in the UK, fitted perfectly first time & everything is lovely. What was it?

An ITG (UK) foam "Profilter" replacement panel filter. These are also re-branded by ITG for Racingline (originally Volkswagen Motorsport UK & also known as VWR).

I'll do a write up in due course. For a comparison, having had both K&N & Green Filter Europe (Green cotton) filters on previous cars, this item is very well made, & designed!

April 2018

So what have I been doing??....

Still waiting for one of the mods I purchased to turn up, & still awaiting confirmation & new software (firmware) to use the other mod as I got it before I should have!!...Bugger!!..at least the connector cable turned up for it!

Anyway I removed the winter alloys, cleaned the grit/salt/dirt from the wheels & wheel arches. Those nice wheel bolts that I paid to get ELN plated have rusted in one winters use. Which just shows how bad the salt/grit is here. So I have given up & have gone for basic bolts & black bolt covers as the chrome painted ones I had the paint was flaking off, so natural black plastic it is!!

I also did a mod which I was dubious about, but got the parts & found out that I was right! Audi RS3 (2017->) brake ducts! These are NOT easy to fit to our steel wishbones & interfere with our callipers. Remember I did the Audi TT-RS brake duct mod & how to guide, done the same again here:-

How to retro-fit the Audi RS3 (2107->) Front Brake Air Guides/Ducts to a MK7 Golf;-
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41323

& yes the RS3 versions have the same problems, just people were fitting them quickly as they cable tie on & then not bothering to properly look at fit & interference issues!!

So fitted the summer alloys & then either loosened off or fully removed most of the under trays/covers & sprayed the hose pipe between the car metal & the under trays to remove/wash the stones/grit out. As it was a nice warm day with a breeze everything dried off nicely. You should have seen the driveway afterwards!!

I am also part way through doing the full GTE conversion for the air duct/inlet on the slam panel. So that's the blanking cover with screws! The screws are not listed & most people don't use, but I prefer 100% security & have found two suitable OEM screws! I have also found the VW solution on the GTE to the extra resonance problems that this causes! This solution being another part which people have not found out!

So another How to guide here;-
How to retro fit the GTE air intake duct on the lock carrier;-
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=624070#post624070

Pic of the car now on the summers, taken when cleaning the undertrays.

Oh well that's one mod going back to the place I got it from...as it won't fit ....well it will if I hit it in with a rubber mallet very hard (as they suggested) & thus cut up the OEM rubber bush in the process all because the item is not a 100% accurate design IMHO.

Anyway I have been promised my money back, but doubt I will get the cost of postage to me & my cost of postage back to them, & the cost of expensive VAG torque bolt as use once only!...

What was the item???.....A P R stainless steel dogbone insert, version 1 fitment....

Only reason I chose this is because it is stainless steel for anti-corrosion due to our roads/winter grit. & the poly inserts eg Powerflex etc stick out & interfere with the skid tray..so I would have to cut the tray around the bush...

I give up on this mod, nothing avaliable 100% to my liking..my previous cars were so much easier to do this mod & more solid...

Thanks for the info!

I also got the A P R dogbone insert, but I have yet to try and fit it. It'll be interesting to see if it fits well, I have version 2.

Second, a couple of posts back your discovery about the temperature sensor and fan speed. I'm thinking this could be leveraged to increase cooling for people who track their cars, if it's a simple two wire temperature sensor you could insert a potentiometer in the loop and use it as a fan speed control...

athos56 said:

I also got the A P R dogbone insert, but I have yet to try and fit it. It'll be interesting to see if it fits well, I have version 2.

Second, a couple of posts back your discovery about the temperature sensor and fan speed. I'm thinking this could be leveraged to increase cooling for people who track their cars, if it's a simple two wire temperature sensor you could insert a potentiometer in the loop and use it as a fan speed control...

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It might have fitted better "IF" & I do mean "IF" you actually reconnect the bolt & force the dogbone mount forwards which would create more space at the rear void. However this means you now have the insert forcing the bush to NOT be it is neutral position, which means it is always solid at the rear. Even "IF" this worked I still think that the corners of the rear upstand would eventually cut into the rubber bush as the metal shape is slightly wrong!

The temp sensor is just a basic two wire sensor which actually goes back years in VAG usage...however it is tied into so many other systems that if you start messing around with it...it will throw other systems out....too complex for its own good...

golfdave said:

Oh well that's one mod going back to the place I got it from...as it won't fit ....well it will if I hit it in with a rubber mallet very hard (as they suggested) & thus cut up the OEM rubber bush in the process all because the item is not a 100% accurate design IMHO.

Anyway I have been promised my money back, but doubt I will get the cost of postage to me & my cost of postage back to them, & the cost of expensive VAG torque bolt as use once only!...

What was the item???.....A P R stainless steel dogbone insert, version 1 fitment....

Only reason I chose this is because it is stainless steel for anti-corrosion due to our roads/winter grit. & the poly inserts eg Powerflex etc stick out & interfere with the skid tray..so I would have to cut the tray around the bush...

I give up on this mod, nothing avaliable 100% to my liking..my previous cars were so much easier to do this mod & more solid...

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I have the 034 motorsport billet alu in my car. Was a perfect fit. On my previous car I had a silicone insert, which was a ***** to install, almost impossible. So if you decide to go for an aluminium one... This one is great!

Chillout said:

I have the 034 motorsport billet alu in my car. Was a perfect fit. On my previous car I had a silicone insert, which was a ***** to install, almost impossible. So if you decide to go for an aluminium one... This one is great!

View attachment 21465

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That's the problem there in your picture...the thin aero trays VW cut around the bush ..the skid tray is not & fits across the bush...so any inserts which protrude (nearly all do) will interfere with the tray & so I'd have to cut the tray around the bush.

Not a big job, but I don't want to do just yet...

May 2018, Part I

Anyway...so I got my refund of the bush from the shop I bought it from. They then fitted it to a Golf "R" & emailed me back stating:-
""Just for a little information we have fitted the insert you returned to another car here a 14’ MK7 Golf R. Whilst the fitment was tight the insert slid in perfectly and was exactly as expected. We do have inserts from the likes of Forge Motorsport which are a little thinner and may suit your bush a little better. ""

So basically even for the same type of OEM bush the aftermarket manufacturers cannot decide what thickness to make the upstands to fill the voids???.. Someone's ballsed up & I don't want to play guinea pig...

**********

I also did the final big job on the car...for the time being...heat shielding the badly designed coil pack wiring loom!! I also heat shielded some other items whilst I was at it, & did another "how to" guide, NOT for the faint hearted!!..

How to:- EA211 engine:- heat shielding & how to sort the design flaws in the coil pack wiring
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42100

Makes a difference, & well worth the time to do it, as its the final bit in the "gain as much MPG back" mods I was planning!

Since I did the Audi RS3 (removal) to TT-S (installed) brake ducts, installed the ITG foam panel air filter, GTE slam panel air duct & this heat shielding I now get 45-47mpg (UK) on my main road trips instead of 41-43mpg (UK). So that's a good 9% improvement, plus a quieter engine, faster/earlier turbo spool up, & more responsive engine, with more "shove".

Just need to get it on a dyno to see what it does...

Great tutorial, once again! I loved the heat shielding, and it motivates me to do the same

May 2018, Part II

So what have I been doing to the car recently??....errrr......quite a bit actually!!

Mainly problem solving, so not really moved the car forward in anything tuning, styling etc.

So, Thursday (17th May), driving back home on main road doing 60mph, & a truck coming the other way doing about 50mph, kicks up a chunk of hard mud/rock (left by tractors as farmers fields on both sides of road) & so this flies towards me at least 90mph! All I can think of is the windscreen, but no it hits the VW badge dead centre! Manage to pull over in the nearest lay by & the badge falls of in my hands, grille is cracked, but everything solid enough to drive home.

Get home & the badge was hit so hard it flattened out the badge so not “domed”, the gloss black plastic behind the chrome has a huge crack top to bottom & the matt black plastic framework is cracked/split from the badge area right back to the rear where it joins the lock carrier! All other bodywork/paintwork around it is OK!!...I was seriously lucky, otherwise a body shop job!!

So after researching the various aero style grilles e.g. GTE, Bluemotion, etc., I again come to the conclusion that for air flow into the air intake & “original Golf grill” style, that my OEM grill is still the best. So I reorder the part which confused my parts bloke as he knows I always order different parts & this time it was “can I have the factory part?”. Haha!!

Also decided to order a new rear badge as the black part on mine was scratched from pressing my thumb in the top “V” when there was dirt on it, & something had affected the chrome painted section.

The parts arrived at the dealers two days later on the Saturday. Unfortunately I had to separate the grill out slightly as the gloss black part was not correctly clipped into the matt black plastic part & was noticeable along the top front horizontal join between the two parts!...aarrrrggghhhhh!! Bad Q.C.! Anyway I sorted it 100% & then applied two coats of Gtechniq-C4 “Permanent trim restorer” coating to the new items. The top black section of the “V” on the rear badge I did not coat & instead fitted some clear protective film. Removing the old rear badge did not go according the ERWIN (VW) workshop book & I ended up carefully breaking it off with needle nose pliers due to the clips/tangs on the side of the badge!..

Anyway picture of the front grill after it "took one" for the rest of the car..

May 2018, Part III

I also decided to refresh the Gtechniq “Crystal serum” coating (applied over 3yrs ago) using their W5 “Citrus all purpose cleaner” & de-tar using their W7 “Tar & glue remover”. Basically I had previously cleaned/foamed etc using their produces as I have since day one with this car, so car was clean. Firstly get a cloth which is non scratch, soft, & needs to be thrown away as you can’t get all the W7 stuff out of it afterwards! So spray the W7 onto the cloth & then wipe a panel with low to medium pressure. Leave for a few minutes, & then spray cloth again & re-wipe the panel & all the tar (actually diesel soot pollutants) will come off the paintwork.

Then make up a 1:10 solution with water & W5 cleaner & put in a spray bottle. Now using a soft non scratch cloth, spray solution onto cloth & wipe cloth over the panel to remove the film of W7. Repeat with the cleaner several times & then rinse panel with clean water. Now you will notice that the paintwork is very shiny, squeaky clean & totally smooth & no need for a clay bar!

The reason for spraying onto the cloths with both the W7 & the W5 is that usually you find that the products run on the panels when you spray the panels, & the tar remover (W7) gets onto plastic & you forget it & if it rests on plastic too long it damages the finish, especially on the matt black & the chrome finishes. So by spraying directly onto the cloth you use way less product & can control the application. Gtechniq state to use their W5 to refresh the Crystal serum coating as it is a superior traffic film remover, so using it after de-tarring removes the tar cleaner (W7) & also any traffic film, so two jobs in one go!!

The paint is really "liquid look" again & you get more shadow/contrast & every crease line is now more defined! Had to take picture in the shade as you couldn't make the car out as a sunny day, & just reflections & shiny highlights!!...