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Question about negotiating purchase/trade

applesauce2

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
WV
For those that have experience negotiating a purchase/trade remotely (via phone/email) and in person

Do you sense any significant difference in the offers received (especially for a proposed trade) if the process is carried out remotely over doing it in person? Obviously, I’m speaking more about initial offers, as the deal won’t be sealed until the cars are seen in the flesh.
 

vj123

Autocross Newbie
Location
The Detroit
Car(s)
19 & 16 GTI - sold
When i bought mine, i did not finance through the dealer. I had a certified check from my CU for the exact amount what the dealer had quoted. This way there wasnt any surprises when i step into the dealership.

I had to pay $1000 more than the negotiated deal for not financing through the dealership. I had to buy the vehicle within a short time and didn wanna have any surprises after travelling all the way from MI.
 

Shane_Anigans

Drag Race Newbie
Location
SE MI
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport DSG
I did all my negotiating by email, text, and website chat when I purchased mine. Didn't set foot in a showroom until it was time to sign the papers. (I'd already driven my brother's GTI, so no need to waste anyone's time test-driving.) What I did was shop my offer via email to every dealer within 200 miles of me that had a Sport on the lot; once they (all) accepted it, I then brought up the possibility of trading in my old car with them. Gave them the details and what I was asking, of course no dealer would come close to the trade-in value on KBB. Most of them offered the same on my trade-in and wouldn't budge without seeing the car in person, which I wasn't keen on since they'd have the upper hand after I drove 2+ hours so they could look at it. One dealer in Cleveland offered me $1000 more than the others, provided it was in the excellent condition I claimed (which it was). I forwarded that offer to a salesperson I'm friends with at the local dealer, and she beat the Cleveland offer, so I bought my car from her. I didn't hold out for a private party sale since it was 4 days to month-end (10/17) and I knew that the supply of Sport/DSG vehicles was starting to dry up.

Long story short, I would do as much negotiation as possible by email. Give them an offer, see if they accept, and you've got records of the conversation in your inbox if they try to change things once you get there. Don't deal with any dealer who will only give you a price in person; they're stuck in the 1950s and they deserve to go out of business while the rest of the world evolves. The smart dealers have already adapted to the changing market, and salespeople are finally realizing that communication via email is easier and more efficient for them than phone calls and face-to-face conversations. The ones that haven't should have gotten out of the game years ago.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I always negotiate the deal without a trade or monthly payment in the conversation period. Regardless of what you can afford monthly it’s not something you should disclose, because an experienced shady salesperson will use it against you by trying to make a higher sales price seem ok because the payment is lower...bottom line is your total investment at the end of the loan is all that matters.

For instance if you come in saying $300 per month is where I wanna be, they’ll try to stretch the loan out and pad it with options to inflate the price in their favor while seemingly helping you with the illusion that $275 per month is a “deal”, yet costing thousands more in the end due to longer terms and or higher rates

Also, the trade in. If you’ve reached an agreement on out the door price without it you can play hardball on the exact amount you’re really getting for your trade. I always tell them if you can take my trade without changing the deal we have now then you just sold a car. They’ll always laugh right off the bat, but I’ve closed deals that way and got thousands more for my trade than they originally say it’s worth, because by that point you had them considering this a closed deal. In their mind that commission money probably already has a home so they’re gonna push the manager to make the deal happen for their own sake

Just my experience FYI, but it has worked on both cars and motorcycles I’ve purchased new. Of course if you’re way upside down on your loan it’s never gonna happen
 

jxkim

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
North NJ
For those that have experience negotiating a purchase/trade remotely (via phone/email) and in person

Do you sense any significant difference in the offers received (especially for a proposed trade) if the process is carried out remotely over doing it in person? Obviously, I’m speaking more about initial offers, as the deal won’t be sealed until the cars are seen in the flesh.
you didnt specifiy if you're looking at new or used cars.

1. there are some dealerships (i.e. carmax model) that are no haggle which eliminates your concern. (vroom, carvana to name some more - dont think these 2 buy cars from people) and i've seen local tristate ones, such as carsense, autolenders. i have read that these dealerships have fair trade in values and is pretty quick to get an estimate.

2. regarding your trade in. you should have an approximate value in mind. a trade in definitely makes the final price more questionable, as this is another variable dealers can use to lock in their profits. i would try to keep the two transactions separate (at least in your calculations)

3. if you're going to haggle or want something, do it in person. doing this online or over the phone is generally futile. you should be ready to walk away or you have no leverage

4. lastly nothing a dealer tells you via email or phone is final or necessarily true. be wary of driving a long distance as some will tell you anything to get you in the door
 
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