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RacingLine Golf MK7 Oil Cooler

teemmy

teemmy

Ready to race!
Location
bay area, CA
I believe it was 50-616-7612. You do need to purchase the AN fittings up top from setrab for the lines because you can’t transfer them over from the racingline unit.

I also bought shorter isolators from amazon as well to help with clearance:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
teemmy said:
I believe it was 50-616-7612. You do need to purchase the AN fittings up top from setrab for the lines because you can’t transfer them over from the racingline unit.

I also bought shorter isolators from amazon as well to help with clearance:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Any reason the 50-915-7612 wider but shorter unit couldn't work? Your photo looks like the larger isolaters are in place.

I wonder if flipping it upside down so those fittings are facing down, would help get a slightly bigger cooler in?
 
M

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Setrab Cooler

I’m a big fan on Setrab oil coolers. Running a smaller pulley on my Mini runs up IAT’s and temps in general. Similar to a tune or IS38 Upgrade on a GTi.

The current long radius 90-degree elbows are great for minimizing pressure drop through the oil lines. If space or packaging is tight, Setrab makes a great swivel banjo. Granted this may cause 1-2psi pressure drop, but high oil temps are not good for engine life longevity. High temps will also rob you of much needed power.

I chose to install my cooler upside down to simplify the routing of the oil lines. Long story short, I managed to squeeze a 19-row cooler in the Mini by using the Banjo fittings.

Hopefully this helps provide alternate ideas for oil cooler fitting.
 

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V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
Mini7 said:
I’m a big fan on Setrab oil coolers. Running a smaller pulley on my Mini runs up IAT’s and temps in general. Similar to a tune or IS38 Upgrade on a GTi.

The current long radius 90-degree elbows are great for minimizing pressure drop through the oil lines. If space or packaging is tight, Setrab makes a great swivel banjo. Granted this may cause 1-2psi pressure drop, but high oil temps are not good for engine life longevity. High temps will also rob you of much needed power.

I chose to install my cooler upside down to simplify the routing of the oil lines. Long story short, I managed to squeeze a 19-row cooler in the Mini by using the Banjo fittings.

Hopefully this helps provide alternate ideas for oil cooler fitting.
Click to expand...

It does help give ideas. I'm thinking of mounting a setrab 9 series 15 row upside down. Setrab recommends this for a 220hp wet sump, so it might be good enough to get the oil temps under control on the gti. I found some suso brackets that might give it a better fit as well. I hated the idea of paying vwr 600$ for a kit I'm going to cannibalize, but there really aren't any other decent options, unless you want to pull the engine.

I just got the vwr kit in today... What a dinky core. Pretty sure this thing is designed to cool a 90hp engine, haha.
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
did anyone else's kit come with four small black tabs that appear to be 1/2" thick and taper? Two tabs appear to line up with two holes being straight drilled, while one is beveled for a recessed screw. I don't see any mention of these in Racingline's instructions, nor do I see where they would actually fit.

I plan to mount the dinky 10 row that came with the kit, and take some photos of measurements, then in the spring I'll see if I can fit the 9 series 15 row, or even the 9 series 20 row with the banjo style fitting. Possibly fitting upside down with U type fittings if there's room.
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
Navi said:
pics of what you are talking about?

I'm running a setrab 9 series 13 row and it fits fine... I think Teammy is running a 15 row with the vwr mounting hardware and it fits
Click to expand...

The photo is attached. Where did you mount your 9 series?
 

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N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
oh those things.. you don't need them. They are for ROW vehicles. I mounted my 13 row in the same spot that VWR uses and used the VWR mounting hardware. I used the shorter vibration dampeners posted above and had real good space/clearance. I could probably fit a 15 row, but the 13 is more than enough.
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
Navi said:
oh those things.. you don't need them. They are for ROW vehicles. I mounted my 13 row in the same spot that VWR uses and used the VWR mounting hardware. I used the shorter vibration dampeners posted above and had real good space/clearance. I could probably fit a 15 row, but the 13 is more than enough.
Click to expand...

Gotcha! That would make sense. Not like this is a hard install, but their instructions are not really clear...

Which setrab is a 13 row? From their site I only see a 10, 15, 20...
http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oilcoolers/engine/index.html

I was looking to measure out the space for the 15 (http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-15-row-series-oil-cooler-p-233.html)

or possibly the 20 (http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-20-row-series-oil-cooler-p-234.html).

I'm stage 2 and hitting 280+ on track. The recent Unitronic tune also seems to be effecting water temp, which is odd.

I'm going to run the kit 10 row and see how much it effects temps. I expect 10-15 degrees, and if that's true, It would seem I'd need the 20 row to get temps down by 25-35 degrees. 280-35 puts me in a pretty sweet spot. Are you getting better cooling than 25-35 from your setup?
 
S

sean.mason.75873

Banned
I saw a TT with plastic oil pan have the oil pan spontaneously explode on course. Is anyone worried about that happening with oil temps in the 270's or are those that track swapping to steel or aluminum pans?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
sean.mason.75873 said:
I saw a TT with plastic oil pan have the oil pan spontaneously explode on course. Is anyone worried about that happening with oil temps in the 270's or are those that track swapping to steel or aluminum pans?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I find it hard to believe it was spontaneous. If oil temp was the issue, there should be evidence of melting or fracturing/splintering. It's a high temp plastic that's actually pretty strong. I would bet he hit something, and hard!

Honestly, I can't see any reason to worry about the plastic itself. All the "I'm going to steel" and "metal is better" posts and tuning shop sales seem to be speculation. Commercial vehicles have been using plastic for years, and in most cases plastic is stronger than the thin stamped steel that slowly rusts away.
 
N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
victorofhavoc said:
Gotcha! That would make sense. Not like this is a hard install, but their instructions are not really clear...

Which setrab is a 13 row? From their site I only see a 10, 15, 20...
http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oilcoolers/engine/index.html

I was looking to measure out the space for the 15 (http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-15-row-series-oil-cooler-p-233.html)

or possibly the 20 (http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-20-row-series-oil-cooler-p-234.html).

I'm stage 2 and hitting 280+ on track. The recent Unitronic tune also seems to be effecting water temp, which is odd.

I'm going to run the kit 10 row and see how much it effects temps. I expect 10-15 degrees, and if that's true, It would seem I'd need the 20 row to get temps down by 25-35 degrees. 280-35 puts me in a pretty sweet spot. Are you getting better cooling than 25-35 from your setup?
Click to expand...

50-613-7612

I'll have to check my datalogs to see what the temps were. If I remember correctly, I never went above 240F. I'm also using the Setrab thermostate if it makes a difference
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
I worked on installing the racingline unit this weekend, but had to stop because my oil filter valve stem thing was not the right shape/size. Did anyone else run into this issue? in the instructions it says pre-2015 cars need the new one for upgrade, but my car is 2016 so I thought I was safe...I guess not.

As an aside, for anyone dealing with trying to figure out how/where to drill the holes in the bumper, you can use the bottom bracket for the cooler to stick it into the bumper, mark the holes, then drill. It won't fit on the smaller holes on the bracket, but will fit on the elongated holes, and you can just flip the bracket over.

The holes in the bumper were a PITA to drill. I had to go buy some nicer Irwin bits, drill really slow, and use a lot of oil, since it's a vertical surface. It would have saved time to remove the bumper, since it was also difficult to put pressure on the bit on a vertical surface like that while sitting on a small stool...Learn from my mistakes
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
So I got everything up and running today and 5 minutes in with the engine running, I get "low oil pressure". There seems to be a small leak somewhere, and my guess is that it's somewhere around that filter/sandwich plate stack... I'm almost certain of it. I forgot to loosen the cap before opening up the filter, and spewed oil all over the engine bay. This will be a fun cleanup, and I definitely won't make the NASA event this weekend :(.
 
V

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
victorofhavoc said:
So I got everything up and running today and 5 minutes in with the engine running, I get "low oil pressure". There seems to be a small leak somewhere, and my guess is that it's somewhere around that filter/sandwich plate stack... I'm almost certain of it. I forgot to loosen the cap before opening up the filter, and spewed oil all over the engine bay. This will be a fun cleanup, and I definitely won't make the NASA event this weekend :(.
Click to expand...

Following up on this. I used paper towels to clean up the spewed oil, and it appears a piece half the size of a pinky nail was under the gasket of the sandwich plate. I removed it and also replaced the racingline filter with an frs replacement one. After replacing the oil, everything seems to be running fine now. I'm not sure if it was the paper towel or the filter, but one of those was causing the low oil pressure. I find it hard to believe it was the paper towel, since I didn't see any leaks there, but I'm also not sure why it would have been the RL filter.
 
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