4MotionWagen
Ready to race!
- Location
- Michigan
7
IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)
- Thread starter MeltedSolid
- Start date
tplociniak
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- NEPA
- Car(s)
- 2017 Alltrack SEL
That bolt was the death of me, getting that off and back on was a 1/3 of the total time for me on the swap
crxgator
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
- Car(s)
- All the MQBs
Do it from the top
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Swap is done, inspection mirror was almost a must for doing some of those bolts. Never did find the triple square I dropped, but I did notice that the Allen bolts on the turbo heat shield are the exact same length and thread size, so used one of those on the top oil line. I did have some trouble getting the lower turbo bracket to line up correctly. For some reason the new turbo just seemed to sit slightly lower, or the hole in the turbo was in a slightly different place. I only was able to get it partially threaded, and it could be cross threaded. I decided I'm not super concerned because it's being held in place by the 4 engine block studs, the downpipe, intake, and oil lines. It also seems to be a cheap part of I need to replace it. I might go back and try that bolt again later since the drive train shifts around so much stock.
Did my IS20 install yesterday. Pushed the DP to the side, as my GSW is 4Motion. I think I was on my tippy toes the whole time. That bolt for the oil line on the block was the worst. Had to do it all by braille, but dropping the turbo helped a lot. From the top, I used a 12 point bit that's molded from a 1/2" hex bolt, then used a 1/2 box wrench to turn it. To reinstall, taped the bolt to the bit.
Had a similar issue with the upper turbo bracket bolt. I used a new bolt and it threaded in nicely by hand. Secured it with the allen key, but turned loose after a small turn with little torque. Turned it again a few times until tight, but felt like it will go loose again, like stripped threads or something. Weird...
But ya, no need to go to the gym anymore. Just do a turbo swap every other day...
MeltedSolid
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- San Francisco Bay Area
- Car(s)
- '15 Golf, e36 328i
Did you do the whole turbo swap from the top?! How are your knees feeling?...
Yes, all from the top, other than removing the 13mm bolts on the DP hanger that attaches to the subframe...
I had issues removing the coolant hose, though. It was fused to the plastic connector. I tried every screwdriver, pick, push, pull, and twist, but was too afraid that the plastic would break. Nothing but a few drops of coolant from the line near the intake - nowhere else...
Disconnecting the coolant line from the turbo had lots of coolant spilling out. I'm guessing about 1.5 L based on my final refill. Coolant all over the subframe...
My knees were good... Just generally sore all over...
I think my thighs and calves were my pain points for the next few days. Since I'm short, I can't easily reach the back of the engine bay. Only way I could reach a lot of this was putting down some towels for padding, and just crouching in the engine bay. Probably spent at least 6 hours in that position.
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
ok guys, quick question. I know this is the is20 install thread but hopefully someone can chime in that knows more than I do. I have a brand new is38 to install and it seems the jam nut for the waste gate adjustment has been locktite and marked to show that it is in proper location. Is this how they all come and still need to be adjusted after? Or has it already been done from the factory. Any additional information would be appreciated. I have attached photos to show what I am talking about. Also, can I just disconnect the connectors from my car and connect it to this turbo before even installing it to see if it passes the test through VCDS without removing my oem turbo (won't be till next 2 weeks from now).
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
If that's new that's how they come from the factory. No adaptation needed. Don't fuck with it.
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
to clarify... no mechanical adjustment needed? But adaptation still needed after install through vcds to make sure the wastegate actuator and car ecu are on the same page? Or is it like you worded it, and even the adaptation isn't necessary? I was reading new turbos did need both mechanical wastegate adjustment and vcds adaptation but maybe that was incorrect information posted.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
No mechanical. Just run the vcds test and it should pass. Done.
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
ok thanks for the fast reply. I might just try the adaptation test outside of the car today and see if it passes lol.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Be interested to see how you would manage that......
If you try outside the car, it may be a good idea to disconnect the battery first. I've heard our ECU will sometimes throw error codes if they recognize certain plugs getting unplugged while the battery is connected and ECU still active.