7
Eurodyne Updates
- Thread starter CarlosCanizares
- Start date
harmsy
New member
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
Often you can just email him and the file can be uploaded for you. I often don't get all the updates that everyone speaks about here on the forum (probably because I have a ROW model) and just email and within a couple of days he responds saying the file is uploaded for me.
If you paid a shop to flash it, you can either email your VIN and go back to that shop when the file is uploaded to the server for them to flash it.
Or, buy the cable and do it yourself.
If I were you I'd buy the cable. That way you can flash your own updates down the track. Plus, if you don't like the Stage 2 you can always flash back to Stage 1 yourself without paying your shop for their time.
civicdrivr
Ready to race!
- Location
- Virginia
Nood question for you guys - I'm running the stage 1.5 adjustable tune on my R. The default settings are 91oct and 22 psi (or maybe 23, I can't remember). Are these settings considered "factory" power levels?
The reason I ask is that the car doesn't feel like it's gained the advertised power increases. I feel more power in first and second, but third through sixth feel nearly stock, so I'm wondering if I'm really just feeling the removal of the torque limitation in first and second.
The reason I ask is that the car doesn't feel like it's gained the advertised power increases. I feel more power in first and second, but third through sixth feel nearly stock, so I'm wondering if I'm really just feeling the removal of the torque limitation in first and second.
boost limit stock is more like 18 PSI so no it's not "factory" power. I would do a number of things.
You can datalog the car with the Eurodyne flashloader. Do a 4th gear pull from low RPM at WOT to redline and you can calculate a "virtual" dyno from this. Flash back to stock and datalog for a comparison. Basic things to look for in the datalog are what boost targets, actual boost, ignition timing, and ignition retard per cylinder.
Eurodyne logs atmospheric pressure so that has to be converted to PSI. Plus their terminology is a bit confusing:
Pressure before throttle set point = boost target
Pressure upstream throttle = boost acutal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRL0mG0XmAc
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
More likely it feels less powerful is because you've smoothed out the torque curve. Instead of slamming and then falling off it just hits and stays. Easiest way to see is to log and see what the engine is doing. You can look at engine torque with the tune and without to see change in power (it is not representative of any real value, just know higher number= more power). Also, you can log on the same road and compare how long it takes you to go from say 3k in 3rd to the end of 4th; tune vs untuned. It should take less time if you are making more power.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
I've found virtual dyno to be very dependent on road surface. If you hit cracks/expansion joints it messes with rpm and it will impact results greatly. I can see 500whp on one road and 400 on another, both straight and flat, just one has a bridge with expansion joints that makes the tires slip.
Yes but back to back runs on the same street should give him results he can compare. Plus his car isn't making a huge amount of power at stage 1.5.
civicdrivr
Ready to race!
- Location
- Virginia
Thanks gents! I'll do some data logs, but finding a road that's safe enough to do a proper 4th gear pull may be difficult.
railroader
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Yuma Arizona
You can do a 3rd gear pull if safety is a concern
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Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Yeah, 3rd is fine. What does the manual top out in 4th? It's about 130mph at redline in 4th with DSG.
railroader
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Yuma Arizona
Around 135-140. I haven't taken to 7k in 4th. 130 at about 6300
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Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Huh...for some reason I thought it was lower. Yeah, log 3rd.
Question for datalog experts. I've noticed that I'm getting consistent knock retard at higher rpms on subsequent pulls though nothing above 3. 1st pulls are usually pretty clean. But like clockwork, 2nd or 3rd pulls, I get knock in same 3 cylinders and practically same values. Below is an example but if I upload logs from a couple weeks ago they would look same. Just trying to learn so your analysis would be greatly appreciated.
Mods:
IS38
IE IC
AFe Drop In
CTS TIP
MAP DP
AWE CBE
Brisks
E30ish with top tier gas
1st Pull:
https://datazap.me/u/dubstro/is38-3rd-gear-log-7-15-18?log=0&data=1-12-22-23-24-25-26
2nd Pull: "unnamed" is my conversion to IAT in F
https://datazap.me/u/dubstro/is38-3rd-gear-eurodyne?log=0&data=1-12-22-23-24-25-26
Mods:
IS38
IE IC
AFe Drop In
CTS TIP
MAP DP
AWE CBE
Brisks
E30ish with top tier gas
1st Pull:
https://datazap.me/u/dubstro/is38-3rd-gear-log-7-15-18?log=0&data=1-12-22-23-24-25-26
2nd Pull: "unnamed" is my conversion to IAT in F
https://datazap.me/u/dubstro/is38-3rd-gear-eurodyne?log=0&data=1-12-22-23-24-25-26
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
IATs are pre- combustion. Likely combustion temps are high after multiple pulls which is causing pre-ignition. Try E40 gas and see if that cleans it up. If it does also keep an eye on fuel pressure. If it dips below 200k then you need to look into a bigger hpfp. Either that or start tapering boost up top more aggressively or run less timing.
Basically, if you want the power get better gas/ethanol. Or you could run meth.
Basically, if you want the power get better gas/ethanol. Or you could run meth.
Thanks for the education Diggs! I'll give E40 a try and keep an eye on fuel pressure. Do you mean bigger hpfp as in the autotech upgrade you have? I'm loving how the car pulls so definitely will look into more E85 (no meth for now). Appreciate the help!