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Superpro bushing kit, experiences?

Scala

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
This is the kit:

https://www.superpro.com.au/show-product/superpro-bushing-kit/orphan-SPF4178K

It installs on the OEM lower control arm and it allows to add up to 2° of Caster.
Superpro also offers a complete lower control arm which includes the added benefits of lighter weight and adjustable Camber and comes at a much higher price. I am not -yet- interested in this one.

Seeking opinions by those who have installed this bushing kit and can comment on the results.
My own experiences on the subject are not transferable to the FWD GTI as they are based on RWD cars with F&R double A arms and coil over suspension designs.

Thank you.
 

donefor

Go Kart Newbie
Location
usa
I've installed the ones without offset, and they do tighten things up when paired with the front bushings. Can't comment on the caster, though.
 

teemmy

Ready to race!
Location
bay area, CA
I installed these bushings a while ago on my LCAs except my kit only added up to 1 degree of caster. These are well worth the upgrade as they firmly plant the front end to the road without any of the squishyness of the OEM bushings. You get better feedback when you're pushing the car. I didn't really notice any NVH from these either and I consider myself pretty picky up NVH increases. :)

mine looked something more like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SuperPro-F...=item5b3f94e895:g:3XQAAOSwPg9cCTsW:rk:11:pf:0

I think I paid a total of $150 or so for both bushings for the LCAs. Installation was a PITA and I had to be a little creative when removing the old bushings but otherwise it was a straightforward install
 

Scala

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
....Installation was a PITA and I had to be a little creative when removing the old bushings but otherwise it was a straightforward install


Thanks for the feedback. Not sure I want to do this for just 1°. Too much work and not enough return. Thanks teemmy, you helped me out on this one.

And yes, the OEM bushings are like jello when you drive on them and turn to concrete when you want to push them out.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Not sure I want to do this for just 1°. Too much work and not enough return. Thanks teemmy, you helped me out on this one.

And yes, the OEM bushings are like jello when you drive on them and turn to concrete when you want to push them out.

Sorry to eavesdrop on your thread - to the mods: if this runs afoul of any rules/regulations please feel free to delete my post rather than the whole thread.

Just to clarify a couple of items. The SPF4178K kit adds 1° of total positive caster (0.5° per side). You can typically get a bit more positive caster out of the kit with the subframe placement as from the factory it is *typically* at the rearmost position.

These are a fairly straight forward install with a press as both the OE bushings and ours have steel outer shells that are easily accessible with the design of the arm, the difficulty comes from finding the correct tool/die to align with the outer shell if you're doing it yourself. With the correct die its less than a 10 minute job to remove the OE bushings and install another set. (you're still on the hook for getting arms off the car and back on, of course)

I've installed quite a few of these and find the smaller forward bushing quite a bit more challenging to remove than the larger rear bushing.

Once you approach an additional 2.0° of positive caster you can run into some wheel/tire fitment and ride height items that require attention as the wheels shift forward in the wheel well.

The OE bushings at the rear of the front lower control arms deflect and move significantly under changing loads - whether you upgrade bushings or go to a complete arm option with better bushings there is quite a bit of additional performance and feedback to be had.
 

Scala

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
Last edited:
Please define.

Upgrading the rear bushings in the front lower control arms removes a significant amount of deflection when the car loads the bushings during cornering and change of direction. This provides a much more consistent contact patch for the tire as the arm is more rigidly located; this in turn provides more grip from the tires. You'll also benefit from reduced toe change under acceleration and braking - again; the bushing deflects significantly less providing a far more consistent alignment and contact patch for the tires.

The superior construction/design of the bushings also offers more accurate feedback through the steering. As the car turns off-center you're removing the momentary compression of the bushings for a quicker reaction and you're removing the repeated deflection of the bushing over uneven pavement while cornering - you'll feel more of the surface change through the wheel but you'll also have more precise control over the path of the front end.

Adding positive caster has two primary benefits here. 1) it increases the self-centering effect of the front end and weights up the steering slightly - with the benefit of increased accuracy addressed above this simply allows you to place the car a bit more accurately and naturally. 2) adding positive caster adds dynamic camber gain with increased steering angle. Said differently - as you increase positive caster - the wheels/tires will 'lean' into the corner more as you turn the wheel more. Additional positive caster - and the dynamic camber gain it brings - can allow you to run a bit less static negative camber so more of the can be used during straight line braking and acceleration.

BTW it states that the complete arms are discontinued by Superpro:

https://superpro.suspension.parts/a...Forco2_CijFUUxSqQ918l85DNLZvtB1RoCS-oQAvD_BwE

First - as an FYI that isn't our website, they are an independent Authorized Dealer in Texas. Note the dealer disclaimers at the top left, two at the bottom center.

Second - The ALOY0006K and ALOY0007K arms have been discontinued and superseded by our ALOY0018K control arm kit.

ALOY0006K increased positive caster by 2.0° and required a good amount of attention to wheel and tire sizes/specs, ride height and understanding of how to properly align the car and locate the subframe after installation.

ALOY0007K increased positive caster by only 1.0° but did not provide clearance for Audi's alloy subframe whether installed on Audi models from the factory or retrofitted to Golf models by owners.

ALOY0018K is a all new forged alloy arm set that incorporates 1.0° of positive caster gain, -0.5° of negative camber gain and is compatible with the Audi alloy subframe, A3, S3, RS3 models, etc.

https://superpro.com.au/show-product/superpro-alloy-arm-kit/orphan-ALOY0018K
 

Scala

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
Thank you for clearing this.
Am I correct that you're limiting the added Caster to 1° in order to accommodate lowered cars on 19" rims and 235 tires?

The wheel diameter is largely irrelevant.

The details to pay the most attention to are the ride height, wheel width and offset, tire width and height/rolling diameter.

To be fair we've limited the additional caster for ease of fitment - both from the performance side - those wanting to run wider wheel and tire packages - and to suit a wider range of customers who wanted to buy the arms but were willing to forgo some performance for a bigger drop in ride height.

Australia has more restrictive regulations around ride heights and wheel and tire packages - we sought to maximize performance in that window and it is a recipe for performance that translates elsewhere - BUT - preferences in the US differ and there aren't as many regulations to to curtail them.

We also found that not everyone buying the arms had access to an alignment shop with a strong understanding of the cars or the geometry changes brought about by the arms.

The idea with the updated complete arms was to offer as much of the desired performance outcome as possible while making the kit a much more 'plug and play' solution for a wider range of owners.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
You've made ALOY0018K sound really attractive.

Could be a great use of the next 15% ebay coupon to come along.
 

Scala

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
The idea with the updated complete arms was to offer as much of the desired performance outcome as possible while making the kit a much more 'plug and play' solution for a wider range of owners.

All good but as a suggestion you may want to consider a 2° or a 2.5° version for those who like myself have no intention of lowering the car or going beyond 225/40R18 tires.
 
All good but as a suggestion you may want to consider a 2° or a 2.5° version for those who like myself have no intention of lowering the car or going beyond 225/40R18 tires.

That was our original design and it has since been copied elsewhere, we simply found it made life difficult for quite a few of our customers. It wasn't problematic as a stand-alone upgrade - but building the car around that setup required a lot of attention to detail.

With the updated arm set we're also trying to supply something that works with as many common setups and complementary parts as possible. As I'm sure you're aware - if we confirm something to work with a particular OE wheel and a 235 tire - we need to take all of the 235 series tires into account - which can span more than an inch in actual width when you look at tire manufacturer's published dimensions.

I think quite a few folks on this forum are pretty happy to make some compromises, measurements and adjustments to get the most ideal setup they can. Sometimes even for those willing and able to fine tune things it can be a hassle. We wanted to get to a significant performance increase with minimal compromise, easy fitment and repeatable results.

If you're looking for options with 2° or more positive caster gain - assuming you're keeping an OE or VERY close to OE offset on your wheels you wouldn't have an issue. If you go with a numerically lower offset and a higher scrub radius you may struggle to clear the fender liner at full steering lock with an additional 2.0° of positive caster - with an additional 2.5° you may be in for some trial and error or some trimming and clearancing no matter the rest of the setup.
 

PacDawg

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Gilroy, CA
Sorry to eavesdrop on your thread - to the mods: if this runs afoul of any rules/regulations please feel free to delete my post rather than the whole thread.

Just to clarify a couple of items. The SPF4178K kit adds 1° of total positive caster (0.5° per side). You can typically get a bit more positive caster out of the kit with the subframe placement as from the factory it is *typically* at the rearmost position.

These are a fairly straight forward install with a press as both the OE bushings and ours have steel outer shells that are easily accessible with the design of the arm, the difficulty comes from finding the correct tool/die to align with the outer shell if you're doing it yourself. With the correct die its less than a 10 minute job to remove the OE bushings and install another set. (you're still on the hook for getting arms off the car and back on, of course)

I've installed quite a few of these and find the smaller forward bushing quite a bit more challenging to remove than the larger rear bushing.

Once you approach an additional 2.0° of positive caster you can run into some wheel/tire fitment and ride height items that require attention as the wheels shift forward in the wheel well.

The OE bushings at the rear of the front lower control arms deflect and move significantly under changing loads - whether you upgrade bushings or go to a complete arm option with better bushings there is quite a bit of additional performance and feedback to be had.

Funny coincindence but I'm actually ordering your lower rear bushings (along with BFI engine mounts) to try to fix some recent wheel hop I've been encoutering at the drag strip. Hope it fixes things.

https://www.urotuning.com/SuperPro-...PX3bGPhwHJKOn4B7U7YUhhhLgBgjf4YpSfnytKo2l21b0
 
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