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Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
After half a dozen installs you would think I have this committed to memory, but I alway search for the torque specs when I do it. Gudentite and torque it til it strips then back off a 1/4 turn works for some, but I prefer to torque suspension stuff to factory spec when I can. So, if you are doing the 2x4 method (and you really should, super easy) here are the minimum hardware torque specs as listed in the factory repair manual:

Front strut lock nut-60Nm(45lbft)
Front strut top mounting bolts-15Nm(11lbft)+90* additional turn
Strut pinch bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Front sway endlink nut-65Nm(48lbft)

Rear lower control arm bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Rear lower damper bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Rear lower sway endling bolt/nut-20Nm(15lbft)+180* additional turn

I won't get into whether or not you should replace hardware (I personally do all the above, $21 last time I did it with former employee discount :D) or whether you should apply torque to the nut or the bolt in a bolt/nut combination (I do both depending on what is easier to get to), but you really should replace the front strut pinch bolt and nut at the very least. I would also recommend replacing the front strut bearings to limit any noise issues with reusing the bearings. Happy Motoring!
 
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nype

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Here are the minimum hardware torque specs as listed in the factory repair manual:

Front strut lock nut-60Nm(45lbft)
Front strut top mounting bolts-15Nm(11lbft)+90* additional turn
Strut pinch bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Front sway endlink nut-65Nm(48lbft)

Rear lower control arm bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Rear lower damper bolt/nut-70Nm(52lbft)+180* additional turn
Rear lower sway endling bolt/nut-20Nm(15lbft)+180* additional turn


Thx for this. Copied/pasted to my notes for future reference. Just in case...
 

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
Shortybdub, do you also have the rear upper shock mount spec?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

50Nm+45* for the mount and 25Nm for the top damper lock nut.

Edited for fatfingeredness :D
 
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shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
Wasn't going to talk about hardware or whether to replace any or not, but thought I would share some insight. My neighbor is a senior assembly engineer for the BMW factory nearby and told me this in reference to hardware, torque, assembly etc. Kinda long winded and I apologize for that, but if you are "detail-oriented" (read:anal) like me, it's fairly intriguing.

First, most of the hardware used to put our cars together is not very sophisticated like true "yielding" hardware is. Torque yielding hardware is very specialized and made of precise metallurgical alloys. Most are "waisted" meaning that there is a section that is thinner and non-threaded that will give way when over-torqued, or over stressed, to prevent damaging the assembly components. The metals used are very consistent with their fail rates and tolerances. They are also hideously expensive. The hardware use to assemble our suspension pieces is not per se. There are pieces that are hardened and carry a higher grade, but most are cold-rolled steel.

Second, we have to look at what a fastener does in these applications. When tightened, they stretch and produce tension which keeps assembled stuff together and the bolts/nuts from loosening. There are also fasteners with limited use/re-use that include eccentric locking nuts (they look slightly squished) and nylon inserts to provide a high degree of friction to prevent loosening, especially due to vibration. Both of these will lose some of this friction each time they are disassembled. There are others, but trying to focus on what we have to deal with regarding the suspension. Bolts will also lose their ability to provide a prescribed amount of stretch, and thus tension, depending on how many cycles of assembly/disassembly they are put through.

Lastly, when the factory prescribes a specific torque or tightening sequence/regime. It is because there are variables that need to be overcome to produce the proper amount of stretch. According my engineer neighbor, in the applications where we have to make additional degrees of rotation to a fastener, it is mainly to overcome some inherent elasticity in the pieces we are fastening (such as the strut pinch point, control arm to damper interface etc.). The torque figure will "take up the slack" if you will, while the additional rotation ensures that the extra elasticity is defeated. One area he mentioned is the channel of the rear control arm where the end of the damper locates. The control arm is made of steel (in most cases) and has some "spring" in it that can "unspring" when flexed. This can relieve tension and allow the fasteners to loosen. Overcoming this natural elasticity with additional turns of a fastener helps keep this from happening.

So, WTF does all this mean here? Well, if you prescribe to the follow the letter of the law approach to hardware, you will be inclined to replace all that is unfastened as outlined in the factory manual as the factory is bound by liability reasons and such. If not, you will trust that unfastening and fastening hardware will not make it un-usable and keep on putting things together with what ya got,. If you're somewhere in the middle, you understand that hardware will lose it's ability to stretch properly and fail at some point depending on how many cycles of use it's put through. The choice is your's whether to re-use or replace, this is again to give some insight into fasteners from the perspective of someone who does this for a living.
 

Mother

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Orlando, FL
A couple of notes worth adding to this thread after doing springs on my 2018 R over the weekend.

First, on my 2015 R and my 2017 GTI Sport, both had the level sensor on only the left rear.

On my 2018 R it also has the same style sensor on both sides in the front. Not sure if it's because of the ACC or something else, but regardless, just another short step to take. Each one has a single 10mm bolt going up from the bottom of the control arm holding it in place.

The other difference is the strut bearings I pulled off are part number 5Q0-412-249-F.

I had already purchased 5Q0-412-249-E, which still went in just fine, but had I known my car had a newer revision I would have purchased that instead. They looked a little different, but all of the contact points are in the same places so I don't expect any issues. I can get a pic of the -F ones later on.

Other than that, 2x4 method is still the shiznitter and my car looks and feels great on eibachs!
 

2016RSGTI

New member
Location
PA
So I just finished installing VWR springs using the 2x4 method, and this thread was extremely helpful. Thank you very much for all of this information.

When we took out the struts we didn’t note where the strut mount sat prior to reinstallation (lesson learned for future strut work). We lined it up as best we could by facing the mount ‘tab’ towards the engine bay. I won’t have front brake pads until Monday, so I won’t be able to drive for a few days to test and make sure everything is ok and not making noise.

My question- is this the correct orientation?

I read on some MK6 threads that the tabs should be facing outward, while mine are facing in towards the engine bay. Will I need to adjust, and can it be adjusted without dropping the struts again?

Thank you!
 

Hammersticks

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
'16 GTI, '18 e-Golf
^ You did it correctly. The lines on the mounts point towards the engine bay. If they are facing another way they won’t align with the 3 bolt holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Tooly

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Kelowna, BC Canada
Car(s)
2018 GTI Autobahn
An FYI that the strut mount bolts that are used on a 2018 mk7.5 GTI (no DCC) seem to have changed, the part number is N-912-464-01 according to the dealer who looked it up by my VIN.

 

am215

Ready to race!
Location
PA
I have a 2016 GTI, think I'm good with the new revised strut bearing (5Q0-412-249-F) vs the older, E version?

$7/each for the new one vs $23/each for the older version.
 
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