Cliff's Grey Hare

I'm starting to run my R in some autox events (relatively open, high speed tracks, we're on an airfield not a parking lot). So far I haven't touched suspension at all, just 235/40r18s with PS4S for both DD and autox (if I really get into it I'll get some re71Rs, but not planning on it any time soon). I can't dump big money into a coilover set right now, so considering going the stiffer rear sway instead. Based on your experience, sound good? Note I don't plan on doing any HPDEs in the near future.

Only other mod I'm considering right now is some of the Macan brakes for easier pad change out, getting noticeable brake pad smell and heavy wear during autox and want to be able to swap pads out (street/track pads suuuuuck in winter) without having to pull the calipers off every time.

abt12 said:

I'm starting to run my R in some autox events (relatively open, high speed tracks, we're on an airfield not a parking lot). So far I haven't touched suspension at all, just 235/40r18s with PS4S for both DD and autox (if I really get into it I'll get some re71Rs, but not planning on it any time soon). I can't dump big money into a coilover set right now, so considering going the stiffer rear sway instead. Based on your experience, sound good? Note I don't plan on doing any HPDEs in the near future.

Only other mod I'm considering right now is some of the Macan brakes for easier pad change out, getting noticeable brake pad smell and heavy wear during autox and want to be able to swap pads out (street/track pads suuuuuck in winter) without having to pull the calipers off every time.

Click to expand...

If you are new to autocross then just run the car as is. If you run in a stock class then you can replace one sway bar, and the rear is the one to do on a FWD-biased car like the R. Replacing the brakes will put you in a class where my car's setup is tame compared to most. The front pads on the OE calipers are easy to replace.

I took a few photos yesterday

Height looks good!

Cliff said:

If you are new to autocross then just run the car as is. If you run in a stock class then you can replace one sway bar, and the rear is the one to do on a FWD-biased car like the R. Replacing the brakes will put you in a class where my car's setup is tame compared to most. The front pads on the OE calipers are easy to replace.

Click to expand...

I'm already in STU because of my Stg1 tune (and 18" wheels, not to mention the OEM GTI TCR spoiler i stuck on), so I'm not worried about placement so much as just having fun driving my car fast. Not planning on doing SCCA, just BMWCCA, Trackclub, maybe the local Miata club. More runs, less money! So, making changes doesn't bother me.

I am a noob but already feeling the balance is off, so that rear sway may be a good option. Maybe halfway through next year's autox!

Cliff said:

Click to expand...

That’s a slick setup you got there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

abt12 said:

I'm already in STU because of my Stg1 tune (and 18" wheels, not to mention the OEM GTI TCR spoiler i stuck on), so I'm not worried about placement so much as just having fun driving my car fast. Not planning on doing SCCA, just BMWCCA, Trackclub, maybe the local Miata club. More runs, less money! So, making changes doesn't bother me.

I am a noob but already feeling the balance is off, so that rear sway may be a good option. Maybe halfway through next year's autox!

Click to expand...

Technically that Euro spoiler puts you in a prepared class, although no one is likely to care unless you are contesting for a trophy. The rules for STU (14.2.F.2) say that the part has to be available for US-spec models, so the TCR part does not qualify.

And I hear you, I autocross with the BMWCCA primarily, occasionally the PCA, and infrequently, a local club that uses SCCA classing rules.

q74 said:

Also curious why you didn't put the GC strut reinforcements on (I guess maybe they are purely decorative then?).

Click to expand...

Cliff said:

It is possible that GC changed their product design. The reinforcement on the prototype plates that I was running was just a horseshoe-shaped piece of steel (5th photo in previous batch - prototype plate is on the right). They have done a few versions of their coilover conversion kit, and it wouldn't surprise me to see some iteration with the camber plates too. I'll ask Griffin when the car is in next. I doubt they left something off.

Click to expand...

As it turned out, GC did change the product design. You can see the horseshoe shaped strut reinforcement in the photo I referenced in the above post. That piece goes inside the strut tower and not on top of it like the previous reinforcement pieces.

Cliff, what did you finally set your shocks to?

I’m heading to VIR this weekend and was curious on what you found worked best.

I set my fronts to 7-clicks from fully closed and the rear at 8-clicks tonight. So far my car has been perfectly well mannered on the street. The Ohlins control the stiffer springs well on the street.

This weekend will be the true test.

Mini7 said:

Cliff, what did you finally set your shocks to?

I’m heading to VIR this weekend and was curious on what you found worked best.

I set my fronts to 7-clicks from fully closed and the rear at 8-clicks tonight. So far my car has been perfectly well mannered on the street. The Ohlins control the stiffer springs well on the street.

This weekend will be the true test.

Click to expand...

So chassis balance is a personal preference, and I like mine just on the safe side of oversteer. What rear sway are you running and at what hole positions?

I can tell you that my car, with 80N (450 lb) front and 110N (625 lb) rear springs, a 24mm solid rear sway set to the middle position (one side inner hole and one side outer), is neutral with the front struts set to 9 clicks from full stiff and the rear shocks set to 7 clicks. I had the rear shocks to set to 6 clicks from full stiff and had to fight oversteer. I softened them to 7 and now I have to make a conscious effort to break the back of the car loose. That's about where I like _my_ car's balance to be.

Out of the box your FWD GTI is more prone to understeer than my AWD R. Your spring choices at 80N front and rear increase understeer compared to the rates I went with, and running a stiffer rebound setting in front relative to the rear (7 clicks is firmer than 8 clicks) will also increase understeer.

If I were setting up your car to suit my preferences I would be inclined to run 5 or 6 clicks in back, and 9 or 10 up front as a starting point. If the back end steps out too easily then either soften the rear or tighten the front rebound settings. If the back doesn't step out at all, then either tighten the rear or soften the front until it does, then back one setting off a click to bring it back under control.

Fwiw, I love to use autocross as a test and tune opportunity for suspension settings. Speeds are lower, and where I run, there is absolutely nothing to hit except traffic cones.

Cliff, I’m running 034 Motorsport’s 26mm rear sway set on the softer of the two settings.

Your recommendations make sense. I’m more inclined to adjust the rebound settings to loosen the rear than increasing the sway bar stiffness.

Mini7 said:

Cliff, I’m running 034 Motorsport’s 26mm rear sway set on the softer of the two settings.

Your recommendations make sense. I’m more inclined to adjust the rebound settings to loosen the rear than increasing the sway bar stiffness.

Click to expand...

Stiffen the rear shocks to reduce understeer.

Quick update: it looks like one of the DCC cancellers failed. I was out on track in my second session and a damper fault showed up on the dash and traction control re-enabled itself. Griffin was the headline sponsor for last weekend's Audi Club event and they swapped the cancellers right to left for me at the track. The fault did not reappear Sunday (yay) but did show up again when I was just driving around on Monday. The fault returns immediately after I clear the fault codes so it appears to be a hardware fault. They're contacting Ohlins about getting a replacement out here so we can get this squared away before my next event in 2 weeks.

Well, that didn’t last long.....

That's what warranties are for. The hassle is that I have to drive 40 miles to the shop to get it replaced, which hopefully they can do for me while I wait.