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Front jack pad adapters not very useful

AsymmetricKururin

New member
Location
Canada
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
A while ago nicholam77 did a really helpful, detailed post on acquiring and installing the OEM Audi Jack Pad Adapters.

It looked like a great idea because I didn't want to have to jack up the back corner of the car extra high just so I could get a jackstand under the front pinch weld.

The installation of the adapters went smoothly and I was happy with the results. However, I am disappointed in the practical usefulness of this item. It definitely provides a stable 2nd jacking point in the front of the car, which is terrific. But when the hydraulic service jack is positioned under the jack pad, there is no way I can fit my jack stand anywhere close to the adjacent pinch weld. So that kind of defeats the purpose (as least for my applications).

I looked at some of the pictures from other forum members and it looks like the only way you can fit the service jack and a jack stand together is if your service jack is really tiny (maybe a 1.5 ton model) and lacks the handlebars on the side (the handles used for carrying and positioning the jack).

I considered jacking up the front corner then swinging the body of the service jack under the elevated front tire to make room to position the jack stand. But that could destabilize the car and beside that it would twist around the jack pad adapter in its seat and maybe damage or dislodge it. Am I missing something?

I'm sure the front jack pads I installed will prove useful to me some day but for now I'm a little disenchanted. I just thought I would let other forum members know so they will have realistic expectations if this is something they are considering.

BTW, I also installed jack pad adapters in the rear and the same issue exists there but to a lesser degree. If I tried really hard and wasn't too particular about centering the jacks, I might be able to use a service jack and jack stand together in the back end of the car.


 

B95zP

Ready to race!
Location
AZ
I'd agree. I installed the ECS kit, and find more often that not I use the pinch weld, with a small piece of 2x4 on the jack to protect the metal.
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
Is there a good front and rear jack point? For example, I jack up my truck from the rear diff so both rear wheels leave the ground at the same time and then I stick two jack stands under the frame. Then I jack up the front from the cross member and do the same thing. Keeps the whole thing balanced. How would you accomplish that on the Golf?

Also, what jack stands do you guys use once you have the car in the air? I have some that use the shallow U shape design but I've always hated them.
 

Avanti

Go Kart Champion
Location
UK
I have a 2 ton trolley jack which doesn't lift te car high enough from the rear to get thestands under the front, but you can locate the jack to a good point on the sub frame, then place the stands in the correct location.
 

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Why not buy a pinch weld adapter or puck for the jack? They are cheap and made to do the job.

I have the ECS kit, and I almost always use the pinch weld with a jack pad.

The only issue is the slot in the jack pad tears off the undercoating.

Someday when I have a lift, they'll be useful.
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
Is there a good front and rear jack point? For example, I jack up my truck from the rear diff so both rear wheels leave the ground at the same time and then I stick two jack stands under the frame. Then I jack up the front from the cross member and do the same thing. Keeps the whole thing balanced. How would you accomplish that on the Golf?

Also, what jack stands do you guys use once you have the car in the air? I have some that use the shallow U shape design but I've always hated them.

 

NCM

Ready to race!
Location
Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Car(s)
2015 Golf R
^Saw that video. That appears to be the scariest thing imaginable. The car teetering back like that is absolutely terrifying. Not an option.

There's nothing at all wrong with what he did. Note also that all four wheels are still on, so even if the car somehow fell off one of the stands the worst that can happen is that it bounces down harmlessly on the tires. After all, nobody is going to actually get under the car until all four stands are securely in place – right?

Some other thoughts. I like to use 6-ton rated stands, not for the extra load capacity, but because they have wider bases that are more stable. I also have polyurethane caps for my stand saddles that help protect whatever part of the car sits on them. Those slotted poly lifting pucks you get on eBay are useful for jacking at the pinch welds. Similarly I use a hockey puck (dirt cheap at any sporting goods store) on the jack itself, especially when lifting under the subframe or some other point not really designed for that.

On that subject it's important not to lift full weight at such non load rated points. Notice that when he jacks under the front subframe there's already a stand under one of the front lift points that's taking some of the weight. And once that final stand is in place, leave the jack elevated and in contact with the subframe – because why not have a fifth support point? I also make sure I always have a cell phone in my pants pocket when working under the car.

Finally, while I realize it's not a convenient option for everybody, nothing beats having a second (or third, or fourth) jack to use. I also have a third pair of jack stands so that I can shuffle around some extra support when needed. Also useful for propping up the exhaust system or some other part of the car you may be working on.

Neil
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
I'm so confused.

Nothing the least bit wrong with that method.

There's nothing at all wrong with what he did. Note also that all four wheels are still on, so even if the car somehow fell off one of the stands the worst that can happen is that it bounces down harmlessly on the tires. After all, nobody is going to actually get under the car until all four stands are securely in place – right?

Some other thoughts. I like to use 6-ton rated stands, not for the extra load capacity, but because they have wider bases that are more stable. I also have polyurethane caps for my stand saddles that help protect whatever part of the car sits on them. Those slotted poly lifting pucks you get on eBay are useful for jacking at the pinch welds. Similarly I use a hockey puck (dirt cheap at any sporting goods store) on the jack itself, especially when lifting under the subframe or some other point not really designed for that.

On that subject it's important not to lift full weight at such non load rated points. Notice that when he jacks under the front subframe there's already a stand under one of the front lift points that's taking some of the weight. And once that final stand is in place, leave the jack elevated and in contact with the subframe – because why not have a fifth support point? I also make sure I always have a cell phone in my pants pocket when working under the car.

Finally, while I realize it's not a convenient option for everybody, nothing beats having a second (or third, or fourth) jack to use. I also have a third pair of jack stands so that I can shuffle around some extra support when needed. Also useful for propping up the exhaust system or some other part of the car you may be working on.

Neil

Neil, thanks for the detailed response. I will be taking an almost identical approach to what you typically do.

The reason the process in the video is sketchy to me is the same reason you use 6 ton stands vs 3 ton stands. When a load is placed directly on top of the jack stand it's fine. However, when the car is leaning the load is at an angle and can cause the stand to fall over if the base is not wide enough. I've considered tripod (vs 4 point) stands but they are expensive for whatever reason so I've not pulled the trigger yet.

It should be noted, I've had a stand slip before (on my RX7) so I'm always VERY cautious about putting the car in the air after that experience. Probably more cautious than is needed but it's my life so whatever.

I also will be using rubber caps for the jack stand saddles too (mine arrive tomorrow). I bought two pucks because they were cheap but I doubt I'll need them. My jack has a broad pad built into it.
 

Nappy216

Ready to race!
Location
Lowell MA
A while ago nicholam77 did a really helpful, detailed post on acquiring and installing the OEM Audi Jack Pad Adapters.

It looked like a great idea because I didn't want to have to jack up the back corner of the car extra high just so I could get a jackstand under the front pinch weld.

The installation of the adapters went smoothly and I was happy with the results. However, I am disappointed in the practical usefulness of this item. It definitely provides a stable 2nd jacking point in the front of the car, which is terrific. But when the hydraulic service jack is positioned under the jack pad, there is no way I can fit my jack stand anywhere close to the adjacent pinch weld. So that kind of defeats the purpose (as least for my applications).

I looked at some of the pictures from other forum members and it looks like the only way you can fit the service jack and a jack stand together is if your service jack is really tiny (maybe a 1.5 ton model) and lacks the handlebars on the side (the handles used for carrying and positioning the jack).

I considered jacking up the front corner then swinging the body of the service jack under the elevated front tire to make room to position the jack stand. But that could destabilize the car and beside that it would twist around the jack pad adapter in its seat and maybe damage or dislodge it. Am I missing something?

I'm sure the front jack pads I installed will prove useful to me some day but for now I'm a little disenchanted. I just thought I would let other forum members know so they will have realistic expectations if this is something they are considering.

BTW, I also installed jack pad adapters in the rear and the same issue exists there but to a lesser degree. If I tried really hard and wasn't too particular about centering the jacks, I might be able to use a service jack and jack stand together in the back end of the car.



You mentioned it already.....you need to have the right size jack. The 1.5 ton from HB works great up front (if you remove the side handle).
Even with the small jack I have to angle the jack stand in the rear so its not perpendicular with the pinch weld but works ok.

Gona try these jack stands....think this will be the perfect combo with my jack.
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Aluminum-Jack-Stands/dp/B0007XTGCI
 

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