My MK7 stereo upgrade

Lurchalicious said:

Great post - I have a question I was hoping you'd answer. I see for your front doors your amp'd the mid and tweeter independent of each other. Did you run new wire from your tweeter back to the amp and use the factory wire to the mid in the door (splicing in before the door inside the car)?

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Yes, I went with a 3-way active setup. It required running new wiring for the tweeters, which is pretty easy under the lower door trim pieces. The mids I spliced just behind the head unit in the glove box (you can see it in the picture).

So researching more on DIYma and here, I have the Helix system, its good.. but now what I want with bass, and mids still have distortion and missing depth. I'm curious about using a single Fix-86 into a 5 channel amp I already have. I have an older Kicker KX700.5. The fix-86 has Tun capability and a 10 band eq.

I was thinking of either running audiofrog G60s components in the front (they have separate filters for mid and high) https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XC04yrLZQXL/p_898G60S/Audiofrog-G60S.html and using simple coax for the rear doors

OR

Like you, using the 700.5 to run amp 1 on highs and 2 on lows with the subwoofer on the mono channel. Of course individual components would be more costly and that's also a factor.

What did you use for the spacer on the front door speakers? I have made some and found some online but both are hitting the door panel somewhere and can't get them to seat all the way anymore.

dmazyn said:

What did you use for the spacer on the front door speakers? I have made some and found some online but both are hitting the door panel somewhere and can't get them to seat all the way anymore.

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These were recommended by someone previously (sorry I can't remember who):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR94IBY/

Do you feel the fix-82 is necessary before the twk-88?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

dmazyn said:

What did you use for the spacer on the front door speakers? I have made some and found some online but both are hitting the door panel somewhere and can't get them to seat all the way anymore.

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I got my speaker adapters from here: http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/ These fit great and Michael was awesome about making me a custom set so that I did not have to trim the door panel to much. (Model SAK023 modified to be 1-1/4" tall instead of 1-1/2").

What I found with 6-1/2" speakers is that you need to trim the inner door panel as well as use an adapter. If you look at the inside of the door panel in the speaker area, around the speaker grill there is about a 3/8" tall plastic wall/ring around the entire grill. I took my Dremel and just cut it down flush with the flat portion of the grill and now my panels sit flush with the door.

Lurchalicious said:

Do you feel the fix-82 is necessary before the twk-88?

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I had the FiX and the TwK laying around from a previous build, that is the only reason I used both. If you have a non-Fender head unit, you could just use a TwK88 with the signals from the radio. The non-Fender HU does outputs a full range signal, so perfect to bring into the TwK / Helix / or any other vendor DSP.

Lurchalicious said:

So researching more on DIYma and here, I have the Helix system, its good.. but now what I want with bass, and mids still have distortion and missing depth. I'm curious about using a single Fix-86 into a 5 channel amp I already have. I have an older Kicker KX700.5. The fix-86 has Tun capability and a 10 band eq.

I was thinking of either running audiofrog G60s components in the front (they have separate filters for mid and high) https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XC04yrLZQXL/p_898G60S/Audiofrog-G60S.html and using simple coax for the rear doors

OR

Like you, using the 700.5 to run amp 1 on highs and 2 on lows with the subwoofer on the mono channel. Of course individual components would be more costly and that's also a factor.

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First, look at post #17 on this thread for a link on how to bypass the installed Fender audio system.

The Fender is setup to send a signal from the HU to the Fender DSP/amp under the drivers seat, which adjusts the signal, amplifies, and sends on to the speakers.

You want a clean signal to start, so you can do it a couple ways:

1. Follow post #17 link and totally bypass the Fender DSP/amp, pull the signal from the back of the HU to a FiX86, add your own amp (your Kicker is fine), and speakers. Using your 5 channel, you will lose the rear doors if you run highs/mids in the front and a sub. Or you can run front & rear components (or coaxial) using the included crossovers with the speakers, and your sub.

2. You can run the outputs of the Fender DSP into a FiX82 (or another vendor of your choice), which will combine and correct the signals, and output a clean digital signal to a DSP of your choice. Then on to your amp, which you still need to make the choice of which type of speakers you want to run & your sub.

Granted, this is a really quick rundown, but hopefully you can get the general idea. You need a clean signal if you want to do it right. Option #1 is probably the cleaner of the two methods as you cut out one piece of equipment and you don't have to splice into all of the outputs of the Fender DSP. The guys at DIYMA can give you lots of great advice, I spent a lot of time there myself.

c3156 said:

...What I found with 6-1/2" speakers is that you need to trim the inner door panel as well as use an adapter. If you look at the inside of the door panel in the speaker area, around the speaker grill there is about a 3/8" tall plastic wall/ring around the entire grill. I took my Dremel and just cut it down flush with the flat portion of the grill and now my panels sit flush with the door....

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Have you used anything to seal the gap between the speaker and the plastic door panel?

hal said:

Have you used anything to seal the gap between the speaker and the plastic door panel?

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I used a foam ring between the speaker and the door panel. I don't have any pictures, sorry.

Where does wiring split

Hey guys. Installing components in my GTI with base audio. Where does the front speaker wiring split between door and a- pillar? Trying to figure out best place to locate large crossovers.

Question

So, help please reading this wiring diagram. I'm going to install an amp and sub.
Positive Pin 18 Red (is this switched power or constant?)
Negative Pin 17 Brown


Inputs (are these preamp or speaker level?)

Rear Left - Pin 4 Positive blue/black Negative Pin 8 white/black

Rear Right - Pin 1 Positive blue/white Negative Pin 5 black/white

rowdyzombie said:

Inputs (are these preamp or speaker level?)

Rear Left - Pin 4 Positive blue/black Negative Pin 8 white/black

Rear Right - Pin 1 Positive blue/white Negative Pin 5 black/white

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These are speaker level outputs from the HU. Not sure about pins 17/18.

Hey guys. I wanted to install an alpine KTP-445U. Apparently I can tap into the discovery modules power supply if it's rated for at least 15amps. Does anyone know if the power from the back of the discovery is rated for at least that much? If not I was just going to run the power to the fuse box and use a spade connector with an inline fuse. Thanks for the help.

PhlRmrz said:

Hey guys. I wanted to install an alpine KTP-445U. Apparently I can tap into the discovery modules power supply if it's rated for at least 15amps. Does anyone know if the power from the back of the discovery is rated for at least that much? If not I was just going to run the power to the fuse box and use a spade connector with an inline fuse. Thanks for the help.

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I would run a separate power feed for a new amp with its own fuse.

c3156 said:

I would run a separate power feed for a new amp with its own fuse.

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thanks for help! I will do just that.