MAGIC/MAJESTY (eBay) 16.4 liter Intercooler

AlienSP said:

First 90F day here in Austin after multiple runs.
https://datazap.me/u/aliensp/log-1520713228?log=0&data=1-6

For comparison, 87F day on 05.12.17 with stock IC, DP, TIP.
https://datazap.me/u/aliensp/log-1520794954?log=0&data=1-6

Click to expand...

Looks good

Rough time of it

I just had a nightmare of a time getting this install done (~16 hours over the last 2 days, with help from a buddy). I don't want to scare anyone off the process--I do IT work for a living and am not mechanically inclined. But I do want to warn anyone who order this IC to check the length of the upper mounting pegs. The driver's side peg on mine protruded about 30mm from the intercooler body--but was supposed to be ~25mm. Lacking power tools I wound up filing it down by hand over the course of a few painful hours.

Here's a shot of what the peg looked liked before I started grinding (and before I knew that it had no chance of fitting in the radiator support):
https://imgur.com/T6AhH0h

Here's the point I finally figured out what the core problem was--the peg was colliding with some of the plastic on radiator support:
https://imgur.com/7RFed3v

Early on in the trial--I had filed it down a little bit at this point:
https://imgur.com/XBxJeDu

This is approximately what I had to file it down to in order to fit (I was so relieved it fit, I didn't measure or get a picture of the final state of affairs):
https://imgur.com/NZTKYQ8

I wound up filing it down for another 30 minutes to get it to fit, so I'm guessing it ultimately got filed down to ~24mm (plus, I had to file away around the peg as well so the bracket would slide down all the way). Had this not been an issue I would've given 9/10 on fitment: the condenser slid in with only a couple minutes of filing, and I had no other issues with installing it. Instead I'm pretty burnt out from troubleshooting a really unexpected issue.

Side question--is there a way to resize embedded images on this board? I'd like to embed some of the stuff from the imgur album I uploaded this all to, but it comes out 4000px wide.

hmm I don't think anyone else had this issue..

I'm hoping I just drew the short straw, I agree that if anyone else ran into it I can't imagine they wouldn't mention it. Turned a 5 hour job into a huge PITA.

I had no idea how useful these things were before I got one for a Christmas gift two years ago.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...-Kit-with-28-Accessories-3000-1-25H/203040434

TwoCans said:

I'm hoping I just drew the short straw, I agree that if anyone else ran into it I can't imagine they wouldn't mention it. Turned a 5 hour job into a huge PITA.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up.. I'll keep my dremel on hand..

demi9od said:

I had no idea how useful these things were before I got one for a Christmas gift two years ago.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...-Kit-with-28-Accessories-3000-1-25H/203040434

Click to expand...

Lots of little lessons learned for me, not the least of which is to buy more power tools.

I did get out and do some pulls and it performed great--which is a big consolation after the stress of getting it installed.

Here's the first pull @60f ambient, after driving like a grandma while the oil heated up:
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=1&data=1-4-6&solo=4

I am curious--does anyone have an answer why IATs creep up while cruising?

Anyways, the next couple of pulls went better--IATs dropped to 10-12 above ambient and stayed there (ambient still @60f):
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=0&data=1-4-6&solo=4
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=2&data=1-4-6&solo=4

For comparison, here's my run with the stock IC at the drag strip @70f ambient, where IATs eventually climb to 64 degrees above:
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/january-import-face?log=0&data=1-4-6&solo=4

Definitely excited to see how it performs at the next test and tune.

When cruising around town your pushing low amounts of boost through intercooler so it's not going to cool down as much. When going WOT a lot more air is flowing through allowing it to cool more quickly and efficiently.

I had the same problem on the driver’s side clearance. The yellow clip wouldn’t snap in securely. Added 4hrs. If the IC fit the first time, I could do this in 3 hrs.
Notes:
1. Order the spare yellow clips; they are the same as the OEM form factor.
2. Take images and place blue painters tape on the bumper at the edges of the headlights for future alignment of bumper and sanity check. You won’t have to ask yourself “did it look that way before?”.
3. When you get to the crash bar, scribe around all 6 bolts for reinstallation.
4. New IC hardware uses four cap/buttonhead M5x10mm (.8) on the top-AC side, whereas the blind holes are 10mm in depth. The upper washers will be #10. I made brackets from ½” x 1/16” thick aluminum stock. Bracket length 45mm with 35mm hole spacing. If making brackets and using #10 washers, use M5x12mm. On the bottom, use two M6x10mm (1.0) cap screws.
5. You may need to file bottom slots for the radiator to have some clearance from the IC.
6. I had to file (front side) where the plastic clips from the radiator fit into the IC. A little material from the front makes it snap right in.
7. The magic IC does not have slots on the bottom of the side pegs, before transfer/installation of yellow clips, file the lower tab off from inside the yellow clip. There is still a groove/ tab at the top.
8. The Chinese yellow clips are not ultrasonically welded on both sides at the rubber-plastic interface. It actually allows more side-to-side play which may be good for installation purposes.
9. The passenger side yellow clip snapped right in; the drivers side had clearance issues and would not go in. It may be the long support peg mentioned by others. I eventually made it clip on one tab, but broke the other. As a bailout, the yellow clip has a hole on the front that is perfect for tapping to M6 and the frame has a natural through-hole. I put a M6x15mm in there for security and it tightened everything up.
10. A larger IC takes more space and moves the radiator closer to the engine. To get a ¼” more clearance between the two, bring the bottom of the IC frame forward ¼” on the crash bar mounting bolts (bottom 2 of 4 that face to the sides of car). Leave the top two in the original scribed position.
11. Check your hood latch alignment on the hood if it’s a little sticky.

Quick confirmation that the driver side peg on mine is also 30mm

Will file down to 25mm

Thanks for the heads up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

marc5800 said:

Quick confirmation that the driver side peg on mine is also 30mm

Will file down to 25mm

Thanks for the heads up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

3" pneumatic cutoff wheel or 4.5" angle grinder.

I'd be suicidal trying to do that with a file...and not far behind with a Dremel.

demi9od said:

I had no idea how useful these things were before I got one for a Christmas gift two years ago.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...-Kit-with-28-Accessories-3000-1-25H/203040434

Click to expand...

Its a blessing, got one last month

AlienSP said:

I had the same problem on the driver’s side clearance. The yellow clip wouldn’t snap in securely. Added 4hrs. If the IC fit the first time, I could do this in 3 hrs.
Notes:
1. Order the spare yellow clips; they are the same as the OEM form factor.
2. Take images and place blue painters tape on the bumper at the edges of the headlights for future alignment of bumper and sanity check. You won’t have to ask yourself “did it look that way before?”.
3. When you get to the crash bar, scribe around all 6 bolts for reinstallation.
4. New IC hardware uses four cap/buttonhead M5x10mm (.8) on the top-AC side, whereas the blind holes are 10mm in depth. The upper washers will be #10. I made brackets from ½” x 1/16” thick aluminum stock. Bracket length 45mm with 35mm hole spacing. If making brackets and using #10 washers, use M5x12mm. On the bottom, use two M6x10mm (1.0) cap screws.
5. You may need to file bottom slots for the radiator to have some clearance from the IC.
6. I had to file (front side) where the plastic clips from the radiator fit into the IC. A little material from the front makes it snap right in.
7. The magic IC does not have slots on the bottom of the side pegs, before transfer/installation of yellow clips, file the lower tab off from inside the yellow clip. There is still a groove/ tab at the top.
8. The Chinese yellow clips are not ultrasonically welded on both sides at the rubber-plastic interface. It actually allows more side-to-side play which may be good for installation purposes.
9. The passenger side yellow clip snapped right in; the drivers side had clearance issues and would not go in. It may be the long support peg mentioned by others. I eventually made it clip on one tab, but broke the other. As a bailout, the yellow clip has a hole on the front that is perfect for tapping to M6 and the frame has a natural through-hole. I put a M6x15mm in there for security and it tightened everything up.
10. A larger IC takes more space and moves the radiator closer to the engine. To get a ¼” more clearance between the two, bring the bottom of the IC frame forward ¼” on the crash bar mounting bolts (bottom 2 of 4 that face to the sides of car). Leave the top two in the original scribed position.
11. Check your hood latch alignment on the hood if it’s a little sticky.

Click to expand...

okkkk fuck I need to make a shopping list it seems besides just those clips.

Hoon said:

3" pneumatic cutoff wheel or 4.5" angle grinder.

I'd be suicidal trying to do that with a file...and not far behind with a Dremel.

Click to expand...

You don't think it's doable with a metal file? Obviously would take longer than a Dremel

marc5800 said:

You don't think it's doable with a metal file? Obviously would take longer than a Dremel

Click to expand...

A cheap angle grinder with a cutting wheel is $25, and then you have an excellent cutting/sanding/wire wheel tool.

How much is your time worth to sit there with a file?

The Skil grinders are dirt cheap and made by Bosch. Money well spent.

Agreed 100%. I have this one. Works great.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-5...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100519983-_-205558109-_-N

Get a blade too.