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APR, 5150, Unitronic or what?

Subliminal

Autocross Champion
Location
Vegas
Car(s)
Slow FWD VW Hatch
People need to understand that APR+ is the only game in town regardless of how good another tune is. If you want a tune and a piece of mind that you will not be on the hook when your engine or turbo blows up that is your only choice. Some people would rather have a canned tune than a custom one and end up paying $5-10k for either the engine, transmission, or turbo if things go bad. I don't believe majority people claiming all the superiority of custom tunes have $10k laying around to spend on a new engine, this is why you see all those part out sales all the time where a tuned person sells virtually all the upgrades to their car after major component blows up so they can afford just to put the car back on the road.

You sound like an APR salesman. The APR+ is a weaker tune (than the standard APR Stage 1) that costs extra just so you can have a warranty for something that most likely won't happen. One of the major benefits of a custom tune is that it's tailored exactly to your car, your environment/weather, driving style, etc so it's running as strong and smoothly as possible. Plus with the Cobb AP you can monitor and log live data such as knock, AFR, boost levels so you can have the tuner iron out anything that could be a potential issue in the future. Ironically, APR is the only tune I've heard of blowing turbos or engines - granted that could be because they seem to be the most common choice

Those part-out sales are often from people getting ready to sell a car because
1) Unmodified cars are easier to sell, especially when dealing w/ the general public
2) You can get more money back by selling the aftermarket parts separately from the car
 
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Reboot

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Texas
You sound like an APR salesman. The APR+ is a weaker tune (than the standard APR Stage 1) that costs extra just so you can have a warranty for something that most likely won't happen. One of the major benefits of a custom tune is that it's tailored exactly to your car, your environment/weather, driving style, etc so it's running as strong and smoothly as possible. Plus with the Cobb AP you can monitor and log live data such as knock, AFR, boost levels so you can have the tuner iron out anything that could be a potential issue in the future. Ironically, APR is the only tune I've heard of blowing turbos or engines - granted that could be because they seem to be the most common choice

Those part-out sales are often from people getting ready to sell a car because
1) Unmodified cars are easier to sell, especially when dealing w/ the general public
2) You can get more money back by selling the aftermarket parts separately from the car

Yes it's weaker tune because it's a low torque file which also means it has about 15-20hp less, that is the only difference between a regular stage 1 and the APR+ stage 1. That still gives you close to 300hp and 334TQ . No I am not affiliated with APR at all, I just researched the hell out of this because it is the only option that matches the manufactures powertrain warranty. Considering the cost of extended warranties I am shocked that people are still bitching about the $500 extra that APR charges to cover your powertrain for the full length of your warranty, they are a business not a charity of course they charge extra.
 

Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
With all the rules and stipulations APR has built into the warranty, seems like they can pretty much deny you warranty over anything.

Better make sure you save receipts and document that you change the oil every 5k / 6 months (which ever happens first).

APR Plus Warranty Booklet
 

Subliminal

Autocross Champion
Location
Vegas
Car(s)
Slow FWD VW Hatch
With all the rules and stipulations APR has built into the warranty, seems like they can pretty much deny you warranty over anything.

Better make sure you save receipts and document that you change the oil every 5k / 6 months (which ever happens first).

APR Plus Warranty Booklet

Looks like it would be fairly easy for them to deny a warranty repair and claim it was because the car was driven too hard
 

TroyI

Ready to race!
Location
Austin, Texas
Yes it's weaker tune because it's a low torque file which also means it has about 15-20hp less, that is the only difference between a regular stage 1 and the APR+ stage 1. That still gives you close to 300hp and 334TQ . No I am not affiliated with APR at all, I just researched the hell out of this because it is the only option that matches the manufactures powertrain warranty. Considering the cost of extended warranties I am shocked that people are still bitching about the $500 extra that APR charges to cover your powertrain for the full length of your warranty, they are a business not a charity of course they charge extra.

Here is how I see it from what a car manufacturer thinks. Correct me where I am wrong, as I am not affiliated with anything car related.

When a car company makes a car, they need it to last for "x" amount of miles to get good reviews, and have people buy the car. They have many variable to deal with (like people pushing max boost before car warms up). This causes them to turn boost and many other things down to get the car to last "x" miles for the regular folks in the world.

That said: Getting a tune (increasing boost) will definitely make "x" be less. But, if you warm the car up and keep up on maintenance (early if possible), you might make "x" be about the same.

I personally am stage 2 APR and will drive it until about 80K. Then I will flash it to stock, sell parts, and trade it in. I definitely won't keep a tuned car until it dies.
 

Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
Here is how I see it from what a car manufacturer thinks. Correct me where I am wrong, as I am not affiliated with anything car related.

When a car company makes a car, they need it to last for "x" amount of miles to get good reviews, and have people buy the car. They have many variable to deal with (like people pushing max boost before car warms up). This causes them to turn boost and many other things down to get the car to last "x" miles for the regular folks in the world.

That said: Getting a tune (increasing boost) will definitely make "x" be less. But, if you warm the car up and keep up on maintenance (early if possible), you might make "x" be about the same.

I personally am stage 2 APR and will drive it until about 80K. Then I will flash it to stock, sell parts, and trade it in. I definitely won't keep a tuned car until it dies.

For the most part, all things being equal, that is it exactly. The more stress, the more care you need to have. Your average Joe doesn't give a damn, so the stock stress of the engine isn't very high. Thus a simple tune can give so much power, when compared to other engines that run at higher stress stock.
 
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