Anyone tried to remove the aftermarket bolts after some solid miles on them? I went to put some thread lock on last night, and the middle bolt had a pretty fair amount of resistance to remove the entire way through the thread range. It could not be finger spun at any point on the way out or on the way back in. A little gunky with whitish stuff, maybe from brine over the winter? I cleaned it off with a wire brush, thread locked and put it back in.
7
Roc-Euro MQB Drivetrain Stabilizer
- Thread starter MKVIISpec
- Start date
GLoBaLReBeL
Ready to race!
- Location
- South Bend, IN
Response from John over at RE . . .
There are a lot of variables with any install, but ensuring a part is properly tightened is definitely important. With two reports of clunking for a few weeks and one report of a bolt being gone, well, folks, I'd definitely make sure to tighten everything down and double check after a few miles for good measure. That's good mechanical logic. What we did to simplify the install is ditch the dual washer aspect, and went with a wider head bolt. Less moving parts, less chance of incorrect install order, etc. The kit comes assembled as it sits on the vehicle and we have posted instructions online as well.
ANYONE with the older hardware setup, with the washers, can get a replacement bolt no charge, and you'll only need to undo that bolt and remove the washers. You don't NEED to do this, but we're here to help if you're concerned. Plus it makes you check the bolts. That's good. For everyone who's got it in and loves it, thanks! For anyone on the 'flimsy' train, you do you. Sometimes a fresh design approach can change your mind.
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I will say that he was very helpful and open about the situation and we went back and forth on discussion about this. In the end, I've decided to go ahead and put an order in myself (that's how much I believe this to be a one off situation). Will report back when I install.
There are a lot of variables with any install, but ensuring a part is properly tightened is definitely important. With two reports of clunking for a few weeks and one report of a bolt being gone, well, folks, I'd definitely make sure to tighten everything down and double check after a few miles for good measure. That's good mechanical logic. What we did to simplify the install is ditch the dual washer aspect, and went with a wider head bolt. Less moving parts, less chance of incorrect install order, etc. The kit comes assembled as it sits on the vehicle and we have posted instructions online as well.
ANYONE with the older hardware setup, with the washers, can get a replacement bolt no charge, and you'll only need to undo that bolt and remove the washers. You don't NEED to do this, but we're here to help if you're concerned. Plus it makes you check the bolts. That's good. For everyone who's got it in and loves it, thanks! For anyone on the 'flimsy' train, you do you. Sometimes a fresh design approach can change your mind.
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I will say that he was very helpful and open about the situation and we went back and forth on discussion about this. In the end, I've decided to go ahead and put an order in myself (that's how much I believe this to be a one off situation). Will report back when I install.
Cool. I just contacted them to get a new bolt. Anyone have advice on cleaning the trans casing bolt hole, which seems a little gunked up?
GLoBaLReBeL
Ready to race!
- Location
- South Bend, IN
just get some carb cleaner (or brake cleaner) spray and a small wire brush. fully saturate it and then hit it with the brush while its still wet. Then, spray like the dickens again and let it dry out.
Thank you for the heads up.
Curious... Does anyone else see an empty Install Guides page on their site? I checked at work and thought we might've been blocking it, but my phone isn't loading anything there either. I'll email them later about getting a replacement of the old setup, and I figured I'd let them know about the Install Guides page too.
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Nope, nothing there on Chrome or Firefox for me either.
GLoBaLReBeL
Ready to race!
- Location
- South Bend, IN
What was your reason for going with different manufacturers for the engine and trans mount? Just a side question
Cost of the BFI trans insert can't be beat, but I feared the vibes from the BFI motor mount.What was your reason for going with different manufacturers for the engine and trans mount? Just a side question
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Took 4 e-mails and 11 days, but John from RE is sending me new bolts.
I still might switch back to OE, or to APR based on @focker's feedback.
This seems like a good piece but the large washer/filler between the pendulum and the trans casing is probably just bad design, and makes it possible for the middle bolt to apply too much torque to the middle trans casing bolt hole.
I still might switch back to OE, or to APR based on @focker's feedback.
This seems like a good piece but the large washer/filler between the pendulum and the trans casing is probably just bad design, and makes it possible for the middle bolt to apply too much torque to the middle trans casing bolt hole.
Where's focker's feedback?
We're waiting on him to receive the APR dogbone and install it.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Hurry up, Gaylord.
I emailed them, he got it back up right away. Really good customer service over there.
He emailed me back last tuesday that he was going to update the page at that time, but I never checked back.
Also said they'd send the new bolt to me, but not sure if I'm supposed to get a tracking number, ETA, or something.
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