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MK7.5 OEM LED Tails

rotaryguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
FL
Do the supplied JBale coding include the option of allowing the inner tail lights to turn off when the tailgate is opened (similar to what's seen on ROW cars)? Also, thought the sequential turn signals default to regular blinks when unlocking/locking the car?

Otherwise, thanks for taking the time putting the video together! This will make it much easier to do when my tails and harness arrive.


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No for the tailgate question and yes, the default is a static blink for lock/unlock. If you get the JBale harness its the very last parameter in the instructions that you can change to enable the dynamic flash when locking/unlocking. I think that's the same behavior for the hazard lights too. They don't sweep if the key is off.
Leuchte28RFL LC11-Lichtfunktion A 28
value = aktiv 100%
 

TheGreekFreak

Go Kart Champion
Location
MA
For passing the wires through, don't remove the grommet off the car. You can break the plastic clips. What I did is pass the wires from the bottom (car side) through the grommet that goes to the hatch using a zip tie. A zip tie is strong enough to pass through the twists, and just pull it out with the wire harness. Easy.

Have been watching the DAP video, preparing myself for the install as I wait for the lights to arrive. I don't quite get what you mean with the ziptie? You just use it as a snake from underneath?

It seems like the most fragile part of the install involves the two rubber boots housing the wires. Can't you just snake bottom up until it reaches the that circular hole in the hatch that you pull the wires through instead of the way he did it? Seems unnecessary to risk breaking the clips on those two when you can carefully snake it up in one step.

Also, removing the entire hatch trim seems unnecessary unless you're anal about wrapping the wires around the existing ones, right?
 
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NeedSleep

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
2016 Golf R DSG
Have been watching the DAP video, preparing myself for the install as I wait for the lights to arrive. I don't quite get what you mean with the ziptie? You just use it as a snake from underneath?

It seems like the most fragile part of the install involves the two rubber boots housing the wires. Can't you just snake bottom up until it reaches the that circular hole in the hatch that you pull the wires through instead of the way he did it? Seems unnecessary to risk breaking the clips on those two when you can carefully snake it up in one step.

Also, removing the entire hatch trim seems unnecessary unless you're anal about wrapping the wires around the existing ones, right?
That's what murtaza is talking about (and same thing I did when I installed mine). I didn't remove that rubber boot/grommet. I used a zip tie instead of the snake that DAP uses because the zip tie is narrow and sturdy (yet pliable) enough to snake the harness wires through the boot without removal of the boot.

And correct. In my last post here, I said I couldn't remove the entire hatch trim (yay!), which was beneficial because I didn't have to worry about putting the whole thing back on.

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ecsta

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
2017 R
I have that problem but on both sides. There's a fairly big gap on the inner light top part on both sides, and you can see a white colored tab. I painted that tab black so the gap isn't so obvious. But unless you're looking closely it's not that noticeable because the turning signal light lines up (the inner and outer lights appear to line up with each other). I might consider plugging up that gap with black silicone, but I'm not sure whether there's any functional issue with having that gap if water pours inside that gap?

Could you post a picture of the gap? I'm curious what it looks like. Also did the stock lights have that gap?
 

ecsta

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
2017 R
My stock lights had the gap, and the facelift ones still do. I’m not too worried about it since it came like that from the factory.

Oh ok i misunderstood, i thought you meant there was a gap with the 7.5's that wasn't there with the 7's.
 

Crild

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Florida
No for the tailgate question and yes, the default is a static blink for lock/unlock. If you get the JBale harness its the very last parameter in the instructions that you can change to enable the dynamic flash when locking/unlocking. I think that's the same behavior for the hazard lights too. They don't sweep if the key is off.
Leuchte28RFL LC11-Lichtfunktion A 28
value = aktiv 100%
My default is dynamic for lock/unlock, and hazards. Must be how marcel coded it.

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JBale

Ready to race!
Location
Alberta, Canada
Do the supplied JBale coding include the option of allowing the inner tail lights to turn off when the tailgate is opened (similar to what's seen on ROW cars)? Also, thought the sequential turn signals default to regular blinks when unlocking/locking the car?

Otherwise, thanks for taking the time putting the video together! This will make it much easier to do when my tails and harness arrive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unfortunately the inner and outer tail lights are wired together, so there is no way to code just the inners off. You can have it so the signals are not dynamic when the hatch is open but the inner signals will still flash.

I originally had it so the turns were only dynamic when the car was on, and therefore they were not dynamic when locking/ unlocking. I have since changed the default coding since many had requested that they are always dynamic.
 

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
Have been watching the DAP video, preparing myself for the install as I wait for the lights to arrive. I don't quite get what you mean with the ziptie? You just use it as a snake from underneath?

It seems like the most fragile part of the install involves the two rubber boots housing the wires. Can't you just snake bottom up until it reaches the that circular hole in the hatch that you pull the wires through instead of the way he did it? Seems unnecessary to risk breaking the clips on those two when you can carefully snake it up in one step.

Also, removing the entire hatch trim seems unnecessary unless you're anal about wrapping the wires around the existing ones, right?



Do yourself a favor and remove the plastic trims , is not about being neat but if you do not remove the plastic trim you will work harder and can damage the wires.

You do not need to remove the boots but don't use a hanger or hard wire because you could brake them, buy some flexible rubber coated wire like the one in the pic and it will work perfectly since is so flexible.



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lijetta18t

Passed Driver's Ed
Do the supplied JBale coding include the option of allowing the inner tail lights to turn off when the tailgate is opened (similar to what's seen on ROW cars)?

I can tell you that RoW are not even wired to be able to turn the inner hatch lights off when opening. With my car, I wired it just like the factory cars and from how it is wired, there is no way to have them turn off. Believe me, I tried. The only way I can think of to perform this is by wiring a relay off of the hatch open switch to cut the power to them. Not doing that.
 

Devin1

New member
Location
United States
Just installed the tails with JBale's harness. Whole process took about 3 hours including coding. I found it to be much easier than folding mirror installation. As notes above, the gap between the outer tails and the upper hatch is a bit larger. The hatch lights also protrude out farther than the outer ones do. I notice it quite a bit now, but probably will less with time. I do have some coding questions though... 1) it seems the signals are not dynamic when the car is on or off or with hazards. Double checking my coding now. 2) my reverse lights are on all the time whether the car is in park, reverse, drive. I also get a bulb out warning on the reverse lights when in reverse. I had reverted from the 5 brake light and inner+outer turn signal coding mod back to stock before this install. Thoughts?
 

rotaryguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
FL
Just installed the tails with JBale's harness. Whole process took about 3 hours including coding. I found it to be much easier than folding mirror installation. As notes above, the gap between the outer tails and the upper hatch is a bit larger. The hatch lights also protrude out farther than the outer ones do. I notice it quite a bit now, but probably will less with time. I do have some coding questions though... 1) it seems the signals are not dynamic when the car is on or off or with hazards. Double checking my coding now. 2) my reverse lights are on all the time whether the car is in park, reverse, drive. I also get a bulb out warning on the reverse lights when in reverse. I had reverted from the 5 brake light and inner+outer turn signal coding mod back to stock before this install. Thoughts?



If the hatch lights protrude out further than the outers simply adjust the two leveling screws on the outer tail lights.



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Devin1

New member
Location
United States
If the hatch lights protrude out further than the outers simply adjust the two leveling screws on the outer tail lights.



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Ah thanks. Will look at that.

More info for the coding questions. My car was built in 2104, and I tried both the 27NSL and 26NSL channels with no change. I had previously installed LEDs in the stock tail lights but the only coding changes I made with respect to this was increasing the "dimmwert" level to 127.
 
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