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ECS tuning SS clutch line

MiamiBourne

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Johnboy1 said:
I installed this today and the car finally feels like a proper stick shift car. I had previously done the Delay valve removal, spring removal off the clutch pedal and the BMS clutch stop. A big Thanks to those who have figured out the free and easy mods and posted them up. When I installed it there was enough clutch line to delete what i think is called a "swirl valve". Its connected to the master cylinder by the firewall. My DIY TTRS clutch kit is on standby for when the warmer weather comes.
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I'm now looking to install this same ECS SS Clutch line along with the ECS Bleeder Block. The instructions for the clutch line install show to keep the 'swirl valve' no?

ECS Tuning said:
Glad to hear you are enjoying it!
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ECS, are you saying it's okay to remove this 'swirl valve' as your instructions show that it's left in...unless we are talking about something different?

Link to ECS Instructions, see page 13 referring 'delay valve'

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f...swagen_Exact_Fit_Clutch_Hose_Installation.pdf
 
M

Mr.Tebo

Ready to race!
I did the spring, bleeder block Delay, apr full full SS kit, 42 DD bushings (side to side needed to be machined down a hair), southbend 2 endurance, and redline mt90 trans fluid..... Feels pretty good. Waiting on raceseng to finish my "custom" knob as they are taking every second of there 5 week process time as well as waiting on ECS to send out my pulley backing tool (went back order after i ordered despite the site saying 5 days) so i can install fluidampr. Anyone one want any money because apparently i like giving it away

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
A

airjor13

Ready to race!
Location
NOVA
Just installed the ECS clutch line, it's perfect! Great quality and deletes the stupid swirl snail valve looking thing at the firewall end of the stock clutch line. The clip at that end was a real pain in the ass to get to and release. Finally the 6MT feels "normal", after CDV delete, spring removal, ECS clutch line, Boomba shifter plate and BMS clutch stop, pretty much all my mods have been to fix this crap feeling 6MT.



 
N

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
airjor13 said:
Just installed the ECS clutch line, it's perfect! Great quality and deletes the stupid swirl snail valve looking thing at the firewall end of the stock clutch line. The clip at that end was a real pain in the ass to get to and release. Finally the 6MT feels "normal", after CDV delete, spring removal, ECS clutch line, Boomba shifter plate and BMS clutch stop, pretty much all my mods have been to fix this crap feeling 6MT.
Click to expand...

I already have a SS line (from KMD Tuning) but will probably be picking up this longer one to try deleting the swirl valve.

Did you do all your shift mods at once or did you install the ECS line on it's own? Just wondering if you noticed a significant difference in feel.

Thanks.
 
A

airjor13

Ready to race!
Location
NOVA
nicholam77 said:
I already have a SS line (from KMD Tuning) but will probably be picking up this longer one to try deleting the swirl valve.



Did you do all your shift mods at once or did you install the ECS line on it's own? Just wondering if you noticed a significant difference in feel.



Thanks.
Click to expand...



I did the spring removal first, made a nice difference, then the short shifter plate, which made the shift tighter, then CDV delete which made a huge difference then finally the line.
 
T

Tigsel

Ready to race!
Location
The other side
airjor13 said:
Just installed the ECS clutch line, it's perfect! Great quality and deletes the stupid swirl snail valve looking thing at the firewall end of the stock clutch line. The clip at that end was a real pain in the ass to get to and release. Finally the 6MT feels "normal", after CDV delete, spring removal, ECS clutch line, Boomba shifter plate and BMS clutch stop, pretty much all my mods have been to fix this crap feeling 6MT.



Click to expand...

Probably best to leave that thing in there, see here: https://www.fte-automotive.com/en/products/clutch-hydraulic/vibration-canceler.html
 
R

Reggie Enchilada

Autocross Newbie
Location
nowhere
Car(s)
yes
The vibration canceler needs to be removed as per ECS installation instructions. New line won't fit otherwise. The canceler isn't even needed
 
N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
when you say vibration canceller, are you talking about the green highlighted item in this picture? I've been thinking about removing it. I've done everything else you can do to the clutch/transmission and it still doesn't feel "right" to me. Especially when going from 1-2 gear. In the ECS instructions and photos, they left in the circular/snail like dampening valve. I know some have said that ECS says to remove it. Just trying to find where it says that. Who has done this? Results?

 
N

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
navindralr said:
when you say vibration canceller, are you talking about the green highlighted item in this picture? I've been thinking about removing it. I've done everything else you can do to the clutch/transmission and it still doesn't feel "right" to me. Especially when going from 1-2 gear. In the ECS instructions and photos, they left in the circular/snail like dampening valve. I know some have said that ECS says to remove it. Just trying to find where it says that. Who has done this? Results?

Click to expand...

I'm like you. Have done everything, still want more feel. I'm planning on installing the ECS line and removing the swirl valve in the next month or so. Will report back. I already have a SS line leaving the swirl valve in so I should be able to say whether or not removing that specific piece from the equation does anything noticeable.

And yes, it's the green thing in that pic. Not sure whether ECS's instructions say to leave it in or not, and I've heard both ways from people but no real evidence of anything bad that might happen if removed. I know several others on this forum are running a SS line with the swirl valve removed. I *think* it's just supposed to dampen vibrations and smooth things out, similar to the bleeder delay in a way. Which is kinda what I don't want. I want more feel in the pedal (even if its vibrations) and less delay.

Not sure why you would just be having problems on the 1-2 shift, though. Idk if this would fix that. A dogbone insert helps smooth out the 1-2 shift if you don't have that yet, and so does matching your revs. The ratio spread between 1st and 2nd is huge (45%!) so you really have to be vigilant and catch the revs at the right point.
 
N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
I double checked the ECS instructions and they say to leave the dampener and hook up the line directly to it which is why I got confused when people said that ECS actually sells a longer line made specifically to remove this valve. Have you already purchased your kit? I can't really see any detrimental reason in removing it.. I'm also not an automotive engineer though. I feel like the clutch disengagement is slow from 1 to 2.. It almost feels like the hydraulic fluid is being depressurized slowly causing the clutch to disengage slower than I would like. I think that valve is the cause. Honestly it probably happens in all gears but i notice it most at lower speeds hence when first starting the car off in motion.
 
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