Spring cleaning: Clay your car (pics)

alexspeed3 said:

Learning a lot from this discussion. Is what you refer as sealant same as wax?

To properly do a detail I am understanding the following:
Rinse
Ironx
Rinse
Clay
Sealant then wax?

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Sounds correct, if you mean wash by rinsing. Keep in mind most waxes that you buy will have the 'protectant' in them.

I am not sure if sealant is the same thing, however.

nate704 said:

Sorry to hear that. don't expect any clean car in NYC.

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Oh I can imagine lol. Only using it if I really need to as it is suicide to daily drive in NYC. Other than track days at NYST, Watkins Glenn and New Jersey Motorsports Park, I really wont be using it.

ImolaR said:

Sounds like the Iron-X would be great to use on the wheels..I never heard of the stuff before now.

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Yes on wheels.
Just never let it dry.
I was car first.
Then Iron-X a panel at a time. Let sit 5 min. Wipe down with MF to make sure it gets everywhere. Hose off. Wash car again quickly. Clay and wax as you like.
Every 6 months is good unless you want more.

alexspeed3 said:

Learning a lot from this discussion. Is what you refer as sealant same as wax?

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Think of sealants as modern day waxes. They're made up of polymers that are designed to bond to the surface of your paint to provide a durable protection against the elements. While they don't provide the same depth and gloss as your traditional carnuba waxes, they definitely provide additional protection and durability between treatments, meaning you don't have to re-apply as frequently. To take it a step further, many people like to use a sealant after they wash and then top the sealant with a wax, just to help bring out that additional depth and gloss that they might not get with a sealant alone.

alexspeed3 said:

To properly do a detail I am understanding the following:
Rinse
Ironx
Rinse
Clay
Sealant then wax?

Click to expand...

These are good steps for a full detail, however once you've established a solid foundation for protection, you can simply wash and dry your car as you would normally to keep it looking nice and clean. Generally I'll detail my car 2x a year, but only Iron X/clay it 1x. Washes usually consist of me washing with 2 bucket method, with the rinse bucket being a mix of clean water and Optimum No Rinse mixed in, and then towel dry with a hydrophobic quick detailer spray/sealant (I like Chemical Guys V07), and be done with it. With a bit of work on the front end, it really makes it easy to maintain and keep looking great with minimal effort over time!

Any opinions about nanoskin? I've read enough to convince me to buy it but haven't had the chance to use it yet. Just thought I'd get additional opinions if I could before giving it a try.

This is a life changer:

https://www.amazon.com/Speedy-Surface-Prep-Fine-Grade/dp/B0091II8X8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1492771164&sr=8-7&keywords=clay+towel

It's a clay bar in towel form. Cuts claying time in half or more. If you drop it, just rinse it off.
Not sure what you guys are using for clay, but for anyone that doesn't know about this, get one! I used it on my white MK6 GTI and it got brake dust off the paint with almost no effort. Just make sure you use a sealant after (I use Sonax Polymer Net Shield, which also changed my life).

Modern vehicles are all basecoat clear coat. Usually a waterborne basecoat with a solvent borne clear coat. Only one manufacturer makes a water borne clear coat but it hasn't caught on (slow dry times). Older cars and large vehicles (think buses and trucks) used or still use single stage acrylic enamels or acrylic urethanes. Base/clear is much more durable and you won't see paint transferring to your clay bar or compound pad.


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Gogo GTI said:

Any opinions about nanoskin? I've read enough to convince me to buy it but haven't had the chance to use it yet. Just thought I'd get additional opinions if I could before giving it a try.

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A word of caution here. Contaminants removed using a traditional clay bar are embedded into the clay away from the surface. Non-clay-bar substitutes do not and you can do more harm than good because the contaminants are trapped between the paint and whatever else you're using.

I know Nanoskin is popular and one of the first products of its kind but now everyone is jumping on this bandwagon and some are so bad you'll end up with this mess like I got on my Challenger with Clayzilla from Surf City Garage. And yes, I used it according to instructions, wrote the manufacturer, got a refund after two replacements failed.

What you see here isn't the results of trapped contaminants, the Clayzilla pad is actually abrasive, another surprise awaiting those looking for a better mousetrap.

Nice job OP... I bought the same kit last weekend and plan on hitting the car next week followed by an application of Hydro2... Just waiting on my new pressure washer to come in

Nice to see it came out so clean with no polishing needed!

sixspeedz said:

Nice job OP... I bought the same kit last weekend and plan on hitting the car next week followed by an application of Hydro2... Just waiting on my new pressure washer to come in

Nice to see it came out so clean with no polishing needed!

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Thanks. What washer did you pick up? I use a small Karcher thats made for cars.

I have a SunJoe SPX3000 on it's way and some Chemical Guys honeydew snow foam. I think I'll get some Iron-x before I do the work though.

We have 3 cars to maintain, so all this stuff pays for itself after only one summer of avoiding the commercial car washes.

Gogo GTI said:

Any opinions about nanoskin? I've read enough to convince me to buy it but haven't had the chance to use it yet. Just thought I'd get additional opinions if I could before giving it a try.

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I use it and it's great. Just don't push really hard with it or the "clay" will come off the pad. Use plenty of lube. I use a diluted batch of Optimum No Rinse.
Be sure to break it in on a glass window first per the directions.

Followed suit

Decontamination and sealing today... Iron-x, Mother's clay bar, Hydro2 (amazing stuff), and Ultima Tire & Trim for the exterior, CarPro Perl on all things interior. Pics not nearly as good as yours, and the damn pollen was falling faster then I could work!

Nice! Car looking great. How is that interior cleaner? Does it leave a shine or odor?

This is my first Perl purchase. Used it on both my cars a few times only so far, but I really like it. You can dilute it in different ways to use it for exterior, interior, engine bay, rubber, leather, vinyl, etc. the most diverse stuff I've ever had. The more diluted, the less shiny.

Smells very neutral and doesn't linger long, but the product protects for a while and is very easy to go on.

I love my Ultima, which has lasted forever, but it stinks and is very oily and runny. I saw a great comparison of the 2 and the Perl can give the same or more protection and good looks as the Ultima can on the exterior parts if you apply 2-3 coats.


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