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IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)

murtaza911

Ready to race!
Location
Ontario Canada
In the original post MeltedSolid posted links to the needed parts.
Here are the part numbers:
Turbo gasket: 06L 253 039 A
Turbo oil return line o-ring: WHT 006 113
Turbo oil feed line o ring: N 900 672 02
2x Turbo coolant feed line o-ring: WHT 006 114
4x Turbo lock nut: WHT 007 210
4x turbo studs: N 912 317 01
 

joofcorn

Ready to race!
Location
IL
Anybody have a list of part numbers for all the bolts and gaskets and prints? Big thanks in advance if anyone does!

And joofcorn... Join us! The more 1.8 is20s running jb4 the better! Power in numbers!(pun intended)

But for real, is20s can be had for such a great price. One of the perks for the 1.8 crowd is that when it comes to is20s it is definitely a buyers market. Take your time and get the right revision, in the right condition, at the right price.

Right revision? Is this related to the early mk7 IS20's that were having issues? Haven't looked that closely at buying an IS20 just yet so I haven't come across revision details.
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
Right revision? Is this related to the early mk7 IS20's that were having issues? Haven't looked that closely at buying an IS20 just yet so I haven't come across revision details.

As far as I understand the majority of problems were fixed after the 702T revision. Pretty much everything that's a 722 will be good, that includes 722G, 722L, and probably a few others. Then again it's not like if you get a 702T your turbo is guaranteed to fail.
 

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
I'm in!

Another one down! IS20 and USP catted downpipe are now installed! Thanks again MeltedSolid for this awesome guide. I used the exact same method, except for minor details here and there. I haven't opened her up past half throttle yet as I have just been driving around getting the coolant settled and making sure I don't have any leaks. So far, so good! Now I have to get the JB4 dialed in to see how that works. A tune is going to be tempting to get better fueling if I hit the ceiling sooner than I would like.

  • I did everything on 10" race ramps. Didn't jack up the back, although I was tempted when I started. Wasn't necessary. Like you said, the wheels stayed on the whole time. I used my old rhino ramps as a 7" step to work on since the car is kind of high.
  • Like you said, the biggest pains were the oil return line on the back of the block and coolant line on the back of the turbo.
  • The oil return line was a tad stubborn coming out of the block, just like you said. I got under the mounting bracket with a screwdriver and didn't have much trouble getting it to come out. Putting it back in was more of a pain for me though. I had to use a medium flathead screwdriver to pry down on the bracket so I could thread in the bolt properly. For a junior mechanic, they might be tempted to force the screw in. Don't do it. Take your time. This would be a costly mistake if you stripped the threads on the back of the block and didn't have a way to fix it.
  • For the rear turbo coolant line, I could easily get to the torx T30 bolt using my mini 1/4" bit driver ratchet (good). However, my only 8mm triple square bit was way too long (about 3") to operate within the close quarters of the firewall (bad!):eek: What to do...I looked online and couldn't find a shorter one at any local auto parts stores around here. Everybody had the same damn long ones. Why?!! Also struck out at Harbor Freight and Menards..."What is a triple square?" they asked. So, I went to Napa and an awesome dude there helped me cut a long 8mm triple square bit they sold using a power table saw in the back room. We cut it down to about 3/4" and filed it smooth. I then used my vice grips to hold it perpendicular to the vice jaws to get that sucker out!. Out the door for $9 and now I have a long and a short 8mm triple square bit, and a story to tell haha!
  • I damaged one coolant hose whilst removing the IS12 and have a temporary solution in place:eek:. OEM part is on order.

03-24-2017, 08:15 AM - The only thing keeping me from doing this is my frontal lobe, LOL.
Ply your frontal lobe with some whiskey and pull out your tools. Even without injectors or a flash the IS20 is well worth doing.

No whiskey ended up being required my friend! And, no humans or pets were injured (well, my hands and arms have a few cuts and scratches).

Can you share your JB4 settings? I am most interested to see your initial settings where you dynoed and then also your current settings. Please also include your Fuel Open Loop setting and Fuel Bias settings if you have any of those set below 100. I am going to start slow and will likely also be contacting George for advice as I go along.

Start to finish job took me 3-4h. Good write up

I don't believe it! :D LOL...a reputable tuning shop well respected and known to the VW crowd can probably do them in their sleep, and they quoted me 4.8 hrs. It probably took me about 8-10 hrs including setup/cleanup.

What tuning solution are you using?
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
Awesome! It's good to hear that the guide is working well and that another one joined the party! I have the same problem where all of my triple square bits are about 3" long for some reason, but thinking back now I think I used a 6mm allen wrench for that particular 8mm triple square :p (they work surprisingly well when out of options). Back when I was originally buying the triple squares I got the same "what's a triple square?" I rephrased it to 12 point socket and one guy sort of understood ish, but I ended up finding them on my own.
 

Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
I definitely would want to replace the downpipe gasket and exhaust manifold to turbo gasket. I also wouldn't reuse the 4 lock nuts that bolt the turbo to the the exhaust manifold either. Depending on their age/condition, you might be able to reuse the o-rings for the oil and coolant tubes. However, it would really suck if one was damaged or lost and you didn't have a replacement handy. Better to be safe than sorry as they say.

I agree with this.
 

Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
Another one down! IS20 and USP catted downpipe are now installed! Thanks again MeltedSolid for this awesome guide. I used the exact same method, except for minor details here and there. I haven't opened her up past half throttle yet as I have just been driving around getting the coolant settled and making sure I don't have any leaks. So far, so good! Now I have to get the JB4 dialed in to see how that works. A tune is going to be tempting to get better fueling if I hit the ceiling sooner than I would like.

  • I did everything on 10" race ramps. Didn't jack up the back, although I was tempted when I started. Wasn't necessary. Like you said, the wheels stayed on the whole time. I used my old rhino ramps as a 7" step to work on since the car is kind of high.
  • Like you said, the biggest pains were the oil return line on the back of the block and coolant line on the back of the turbo.
  • The oil return line was a tad stubborn coming out of the block, just like you said. I got under the mounting bracket with a screwdriver and didn't have much trouble getting it to come out. Putting it back in was more of a pain for me though. I had to use a medium flathead screwdriver to pry down on the bracket so I could thread in the bolt properly. For a junior mechanic, they might be tempted to force the screw in. Don't do it. Take your time. This would be a costly mistake if you stripped the threads on the back of the block and didn't have a way to fix it.
  • For the rear turbo coolant line, I could easily get to the torx T30 bolt using my mini 1/4" bit driver ratchet (good). However, my only 8mm triple square bit was way too long (about 3") to operate within the close quarters of the firewall (bad!):eek: What to do...I looked online and couldn't find a shorter one at any local auto parts stores around here. Everybody had the same damn long ones. Why?!! Also struck out at Harbor Freight and Menards..."What is a triple square?" they asked. So, I went to Napa and an awesome dude there helped me cut a long 8mm triple square bit they sold using a power table saw in the back room. We cut it down to about 3/4" and filed it smooth. I then used my vice grips to hold it perpendicular to the vice jaws to get that sucker out!. Out the door for $9 and now I have a long and a short 8mm triple square bit, and a story to tell haha!
  • I damaged one coolant hose whilst removing the IS12 and have a temporary solution in place:eek:. OEM part is on order.




No whiskey ended up being required my friend! And, no humans or pets were injured (well, my hands and arms have a few cuts and scratches).

Can you share your JB4 settings? I am most interested to see your initial settings where you dynoed and then also your current settings. Please also include your Fuel Open Loop setting and Fuel Bias settings if you have any of those set below 100. I am going to start slow and will likely also be contacting George for advice as I go along.



I don't believe it! :D LOL...a reputable tuning shop well respected and known to the VW crowd can probably do them in their sleep, and they quoted me 4.8 hrs. It probably took me about 8-10 hrs including setup/cleanup.

What tuning solution are you using?

Awesome! I'm glad it went well. I have the information on the map I'm running at home. I'll grab it at lunch.
 

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
Awesome! It's good to hear that the guide is working well and that another one joined the party! I have the same problem where all of my triple square bits are about 3" long for some reason, but thinking back now I think I used a 6mm allen wrench for that particular 8mm triple square :p (they work surprisingly well when out of options). Back when I was originally buying the triple squares I got the same "what's a triple square?" I rephrased it to 12 point socket and one guy sort of understood ish, but I ended up finding them on my own.

I was wondering if something else would fit that 8mm triple square bolt (flat head etc.), but I didn't want to take a risk of stripping it. I took some pics along the way that I will post later. Feel free to add any of them to the OP if you want to supplement your guide.

Awesome! I'm glad it went well. I have the information on the map I'm running at home. I'll grab it at lunch.

Great, thanks!
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
I was wondering if something else would fit that 8mm triple square bolt (flat head etc.), but I didn't want to take a risk of stripping it. I took some pics along the way that I will post later. Feel free to add any of them to the OP if you want to supplement your guide.

More pictures would be awesome! I didn't take many when I was doing the install, and there's a lot of places where I can't really go back and take a picture without disassembling my car again.
 

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
More pictures would be awesome! I didn't take many when I was doing the install, and there's a lot of places where I can't really go back and take a picture without disassembling my car again.

Cool, here is a link to a shared Drive folder. Feel free to grab whatever pics you want. I didn't take a ton either, but some of these may be useful to see how things were done. Hopefully we won't have to do any disassembling any time soon!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxMvXgjEztvAT21fYUxYWWlPSjQ?usp=sharing
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
I uploaded almost every picture I took, so you definitely have way more than I do :p. I updated the initial post with your pictures. Thanks!
 
Last edited:

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
I uploaded almost every picture I took, so you definitely have way more than I do :p. I updated the initial post with your pictures. Thanks!

Cool, looks good! It actually shows the coolant hose I broke in one of the pics you used. I'll provide an annotated pic when I get a chance, along with the part number and some advice to make folks aware so they can avoid my mistake. The guy with the GTI appears to have broken the same hose in the video, but he doesn't go into any detail about how it happened.

Also, on my Tiptronic 6spd auto, I did have the axle heat shield that you said your 5spd didn't have. Must be an auto vs. manual trans thing.

Nice. I like those wheels.

I'm jealous about the paint color too.

Thanks guys!
 
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