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CZR's Oryx White 7R DSG

CZR

CZR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf V GTI Ed. 30
Quick spool and very linear with this temporary stage 3 file I got. Not ready for final custom tuning yet. Clutches are slipping (had signs since last year, now it's worse of course) - need new clutchpack first. Can't say I'm dissapointed since I had over 35.000km with 560Nm and a lot of trackdays and launches.

Didn't install the dogbone bushes yet. Also didn't install the fluidampr yet. Finishing exterior (body) first.

Installed the MRC billet last week and also inspected the valves. Seems decent for 43k but will self clean anyway after installing the meth kit :)




Almost finished with the damn Oettinger difuser (ETKA won't tell you but it's not compatible with Akrapovic so I needed to modify it). This should be ready to install next week.

 
Sandman GTI

Sandman GTI

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Tennessee USA
CZR said:
Thought it's no use to spend so much time with pictures/codes/descriptions if no one finds it useful / reads it / etc :) Maybe I'll post a quick update this week once I get it back from the dealership.
There's a ton of parts/pictures and I really don't know how many should I post, lol.
Click to expand...

Looks like your build thread is going well this time around.
Enjoying the updates.

Thanks.
 
CZR

CZR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf V GTI Ed. 30
DSG, yes. Going OEM. Had APR/SSP/Dodson in mind until some people I trust told me there's no benefit and they are crap :)) - was something related to the strength of the materials they use. TVS seems to be the only alternative to OEM as they use the same strength grade as stock - the other companies use hardened friction material which is bad in other ways...

Anyway, I'm not going to try any of them (at least not without strong evidence supporting them) and I don't mind changing clutches every 40-50k. If they die too soon then I may consider upgrading to DQ381 although there are mixed opinions when asking if there's any difference between DQ250 and DQ381 in terms of supported torque.

Flaps are held using special adhesive (similar to the one used to windscreens). Same adhesive was used for the roof spoiler. Probably comes off with the paint if you don't remove it using a wire :)
 
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a3scott20

a3scott20

Ready to race!
Location
Taichung, Taiwan
That MRC manifold is so SEXY! WANT ONE!!


CZR said:
TVS seems to be the only alternative to OEM as they use the same strength grade as stock
Click to expand...

I would just go TVS stage3 or 4 with their race clutch if torque is that high around 700NM. Mine now running their stage3 DQ381 file and it is totally transformed to another car I am enjoying every day with smarter gear shift point in D, which provided MUCH better drivability experience as the gear is always at correct position so the reaction of the car is improved a LOT.
My previous car was running DQ250 with TVS stage4 included their race clutch, to be honest it's very smooth not like others ;) What is your torque now? I believe the stock DQ250 clutch running fine unless your 100-200KPH is 5-6s.
 
CZR

CZR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf V GTI Ed. 30
Last pictures with winter setup! Installed the rear diffuser. Just need to adjust the silencer a little bit further down :) Front splitter was temporarily removed until I offer some protection to it (ceramic coating at least). It's very exposed to rock chips right there.




a3scott20 said:
I would just go TVS stage3 or 4 with their race clutch if torque is that high around 700NM. Mine now running their stage3 DQ381 file and it is totally transformed to another car I am enjoying every day with smarter gear shift point in D, which provided MUCH better drivability experience as the gear is always at correct position so the reaction of the car is improved a LOT.
My previous car was running DQ250 with TVS stage4 included their race clutch, to be honest it's very smooth not like others ;) What is your torque now? I believe the stock DQ250 clutch running fine unless your 100-200KPH is 5-6s.
Click to expand...

Didn't measure anything yet (times or power). Full service (engine/dsg/haldex) coming up these days and then I'll check where I stand.
As a daily it probably won't hit 700Nm but the full boost map (once meth is installed) will exceed 700Nm with a 6.3s~6.5s 100-200. Aiming for a 10.5 @ 402m but as I said, won't run it like that as a daily.
Glad to hear your TVS kit works good. Will take into account if needed, thanks!
 
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CZR

CZR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf V GTI Ed. 30
Full service done today. Gearbox oil was in very bad shape. Glad I changed it.

Haldex and rear differential still with OEM oil. Everything else is Millers now.


Installed this big engine undertray cover, but not before I modified it to improve cooling :)



Also installed the SuperPro dogbone bushes


... and the Fluidampr pulley


After gearbox calibration I can certainly say it feels as smooth as a brand new stock R. Also, vibrations were reduced by the pulley (even if I added the dogbone too) and crawling in 1st or 2nd gear is as smooth as being with the engine OFF or coasting on Eco. Idle is a lot improved too.
Will go easy on her a couple of days and then I'll check how it copes with the high torque. Gear changes are ultra smooth both ways so everything ok as far as I could test on my way home.
 
A

ATR

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Baltimore
Car(s)
'17 Golf R 6mt
CZR said:
Yeah, those slots are a little noisy when braking from higher speeds. Other than that, nothing negative to point out on these!

I removed the TT RS LCAs because I had rubbing issues (these are longer by about 10mm each) no matter what I tried :( Now I lost all that added camber and I'm looking for some adjustable camber plates suitable for DD. Any thoughts on this?

Brake deflectors were the old TT RS (8J) version. You were probably seeing current RS3 (8V) that fit on current (steel) LCAs. Those are the ones I'll get for my stock LCAs.
Click to expand...
I believe super pro makes a different LCA for the S3 which also uses the aluminum subframe. The part number and shape of that arm is definitely different.

CZR said:
Funny thing about those mounts - Overall NVH is not bad but the added sounds ? That's crazy, never thought I could experience those sounds (starting engine / stopping engine / whine during acceleration).
Stopping the engine in a quiet place feels like using a stethoscope, I can actually hear everything shutting of.
Click to expand...
I noticed the same thing with my super pro mounts. The sounds that you can hear from the gearbox and engine is pretty remarkable. Really let's the driver know what's going on under the hood :cool:
 
CZR

CZR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf V GTI Ed. 30
ATR said:
I noticed the same thing with my super pro mounts. The sounds that you can hear from the gearbox and engine is pretty remarkable. Really let's the driver know what's going on under the hood :cool:
Click to expand...

So you notice that whine too ? It's linked to RPM but goes away if you go into neutral. Always thinking my differential or some bearings inside my gearbox are at fault. Other than that, the Fluidampr helped reduce vibrations and the difference compared to a 100% stock R are minimal.

Was busy these weeks but mods are still going strong :)
Some updates:
- Gearbox is 100% fine now. Going strong!
- Some early testing about current power showed a pretty good result considering I'm running a 65mm silencer (the Akrapovic) AND I'm not catless (Milltek 200cell race cat).


Considering this dyno has cooling issues, I'd say I'm pretty close to 550PS on the road. This is with 102 RON (we have this at the pump), no octane booster, no WMI, 2.2 bar.
Final map (2.4bar) will be flashed after I install the AEM kit next month.

Some Dragy runs showed me 10.87s @ 402m considering my 60ft is awful compared to last year's stage 2 setup (when I was running 1.63@60ft). Tested at 5°C ambient temp - full weight, etc.



Engine bay cleaned and close to final configuration.


Car weighs 1560kg (damn sunroof again!). Would probably need to shave off some kg if I want to try break some impressive times.
 
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